Routing brake lines to rear

Just curious how people did this. I have a LHD car and thought about putting them on the bottom of the tunnel below and to the side of the cooling pipes but they would still pick up some heat so thinking maybe to route them on top of a fuel tank (or tanks if I route one per side).

So how are yours routed?
 
Darrin,
You can run them through the cabin. Just put them on the outside edge of the central tunnel, or on the inside edge of the frame rail beside the drivers seat. You can use P clamps or just wedges of of metal using the sheetmeatl screws to hold them in place. If you are carpeting then you can run them down the middle of the drivers side. I did that and used some thin plywood to cover the entire area of the drivers side (in two pieces) beside the lines. The carpet will hide it all.

Bill
 
Thanks Bill. Will probably go along the tunnel then...bottom edge. One on each side. Should be easily covered with carpet as you say.
 
Darrin/Bill

I am in the process of routing mine up the inside of the tunnel, I am using braided PTFE flexible lines, the PTFT is OK with the heat and I'm told that likewise the fluid is OK up to circa 230C/250C. If you bring them up the outside of the tunnel you risk them getting damaged with stilettos and golf clubs. Not sure of the USA regs, but exposed (unprotected) brake lines may not pass IVA here in the UK, because they are prone to mechanical damage.

FYI mine were down the sides of the chassis, through the frame, however in the foot well the guy had brought them out into the cabin and the lines became exposed just at your foot, very vulnerable, they are now going up the tunnel.

Keith
 
Keith you will loose some brake pedal running braid , it has a degree of expansion, steel pipe has none.
Pipe is more reliable as well.
My 2c

Jim
 
Hi Jim, I'm only running braid because that's the way it was. I carefully removed the lines so they could be reused. Part of the issue is also that virtually all the panelling is done and therefore no easy access to route pipe. I could run pipe from the back of the tunnel to near the front of the tunnel, then mate with the braid there, I'll never be able to get steel pipe routed through and around the panels which are around the rack etc?

Have you any idea how much pedal I will lose?

K
 
If it was in it before then it will feel the same.

I cant tell you how much different it would be ,you would have to back to back it to get a percentage difference.
I have no doubt you would get a firmer pedal with the least amount of braid.
You don't have to go all the way to the master ect you get to a convenient point then attach the braid, instead of 8-10' of braid you have 2-3'.

If you are happy with it and it has been working for you run with it.
If it means a major rehash don't.

Jim
 
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Keith,
I used pre made steel lines for the whole run. One run is just beside the driver's seat. I have mabe 3/8" of space for the line. I bet I have hit that line every time I put the seat in. Wiith putting a new steering column in and the pedal box in a car that has a finished cabin, that has to be a lot of hits. The steel lines are not easily bent for curves, and are a lot tougher than you think. I have many marks on mine, but not one dent. Now with the coil of tubing that some use(copper??) I would not trust it getting hit. those kinds of lines will crush/tear easily.

Bill
 
Hi Bill, I agree steel will take a lot of hits, in some respects I was answering from my perspective,... an exposed line (irrespective of material) will hit a stubling block when you try to legalise in the UK.

K
 
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