Scotts build thread

You're assuming Scott's going to be 'top ending' the car speed-wise, Les. But, perhaps he has no intention of 'going there'! (Maybe he'll 'chime in' on that.)

You're right, of course. 'Doesn't take much to screw a car's aero up (which is why I made reference to same). But, for ME, Scott's redo is nothing short of S-I-C-K!!! :pepper: I'd be just fine with owning a car that looks like that and keeping it 'under 100' if need be!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Thanks for the compliment.
Just to clarify, if I had one smidgen of an idea that my design would have negative effects or generate lift at speed, I would not have gone through with it. I think any person in the know would have a hard time pointing to any one problem area. Granted, it has not been wind tunnel tested, but from my knowledge, neither has any other kit or component car that is used as a track mule or race car. In my opinion, a Cobra should be air born at anything over 120mph! haha
The only negative I see, is that the pinch area (between the fender and center nose) is that it is pretty aggresive and will speed the air up as it sqeezes through the upper channel, which can add to drag. Negatives I forsee almost none. On the positives side, I see greater force being applied to the side surfaces which can help keep the car straight at speed. The brand new Lemans Porsche has a similar pinch area between in the same spot. Only difference is it has a lower exit also.
At the end of the day, I have really spent months in the background designing the body to be as functional as possible, with looks falling to the second consideration. If there is a negative that I see, it will be lower top speed due to the more drag from downforce applied. Only an issue if racing for trophies on high top speed tracks. Solution to problem is= mo'powa! Lol.

To really simplify the design, I basically made two large canards with end plates. Look at the drop section to picture it. If anyone can argue that two canards that size mounted outside of body, with end plates at 30 degree angles will generate uplift, then LOTS of people have been doing it wrong! Hahaha. In my opinion, keeping them inboard and directing the airflow around the windshield and past the side windows, will clean up the air going down the side of the car, which will help the air flow through the side heat exchangers i have.
Lets not forget what will be happening with the front radiator air exit. Air will be traveling slower at that exit creating slight turbulence at the base of the window ( will have fins in there directing airflow too). That turbulence will be a buffer to the high speed air going over the car and up the windshield. In theory, it should reduce the drag going up the windshield, which is roughly 25-30% of your frontal area exposed to drag.

This was not directed to you Larry or anyone else. Just trying to explain abit of why I did what I did and the theories behind it. While I am very happy that lots of people like it visually, I did do months of research first. It wasn't something I just learned, but the culmination of 25 years of inspecting aero design on every single car with 4 wheels that I see along with much book learning.
On a side note. If I do decide to make a mold and sell it, I have zero problem with having a competitive driver test the nose on the west coast, so I could drive it to them and be there for the testing at my expense. They just need to be a good enough driver to push it to get good comparisons on consistent lap times.
I also encourage any people that have experience in testing aero dynamics to speak up if they see a problem with the design. I do love a good technical debate. :thumbsup: If you do not have experience in this field, simply posting a picture of a flipping race car [that just crested a hill under acceleration while following a car generating dirty air in the rain (yes rain can be the factor since the water mixed with the air made the air more solid) and using it as a comparison] to possibly discredit the design, is along the lines of scare tactics. Keep it technical with good examples, and i have no problem listening and going into further detail.

So who wants to test it on the west coast? rockonsmile
 
We spent many hundreds of hours running CFD for the SLC primarily focussing on the race car package as frontal downforce is always every race cars Achilles heel
Be careful as sometimes what looks slippery can be quite the opposite...

Thanks for posting Fran. If I didn't find anyone around here to test, I would also entertain having you give it a go. If all good, you could mold it and call it SLC V2. :)
In my opinion, it will have lots of drag, but due to downforce or the aggresive pinch area. Have to test and see, which I have no problem with.
 
Scott, I would consider a Gurney at the rad air exit and perhaps some narrow fences
on the longitudinal edges of the opening.

Perhaps an inch and one half for the gurney and taper the fences as you go rearward to the base of the windscreen. Just a thought.
 
Scott, I would consider a Gurney at the rad air exit and perhaps some narrow fences
on the longitudinal edges of the opening.

Perhaps an inch and one half for the gurney and taper the fences as you go rearward to the base of the windscreen. Just a thought.

I am not really seeing a need to get a turbulence created at the leading edge with the inlet/exit ratio. My high pressure entrance is 1'sq. The exit is roughly 2.3'sq with natural low pressure at speed. I think the fin angle will create the same effect (which they will rise higher than body slightly), maybe just not having a lip on the front of the opening.
I was planning to make fins first and see if I could incorporate a front lip, but if it visually doesn't work, I think it could get around needing it.
Now down the sides, it was a thought to do some type of turbulence generator in front of the rear air inlets. Really a trick to decide if that would help or hurt flow on the side as the front keeps trying to push the air further and further away from the side of the car the faster you go. Hence why the front fenders come to a point. It should create less turbulence down side of car by limiting the amount of air getting pushed around the side, compared to over the car.

Edit- Just thought of an idea. If the turbulence generator was incorporated into the body of the car and not just a flat piece of material like most do, visually it could look pretty good. Like this-

bmw-m3-alms-race-car-hood-vents-photo-223911-s-1280x782.jpg
 
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While looking for above pic, ran across this one. Kind of the look I will be going for for all vent exits and entrances. Nothing but time. Ugh. Looks awesome though.
In actuality, it may be easier to fasten all of the fins and make them an easily unbolted or removed piece. Would just have no structural attributes, which I was hoping to incorporate into the front clam ones. But, would need to build alum frame under front clam either way as my front clam is as sturdy as a wet noodle when lifted at this point with that deep cut. Haha.

mercedes-benz-slr-mclaren-detail2.jpg
 
First pic looks better to me.
The other would look enormous when fitted to the front clip. Side vents okay though.
Try a cardboard mock-up of the fins and see.
 
First pic looks better to me.
The other would look enormous when fitted to the front clip. Side vents okay though.
Try a cardboard mock-up of the fins and see.

Ya, a mash between the two would look good. The second pic is of the SLR hood, which the area they are in is much smaller than I would have to build.
Got a big piece of cardboard waiting for me to get to it! :thumbsup:
 
On the contrary Scott this kitcar company does do real Aero development.
Currently working hard on the new model , the Superlite Aero actually
I have full surface scan data for the SLC and we were sponsored by a CFD company while racing the factory car.
The guy running the CFD is ex McLaren and he did the MP4 12 C and P1 aero studies
So as I said we did many hundreds of connotations of Aero and it's amazing how small of a change makes a big difference.
I don't see you plan on racing your Slc so you're not looking for those kind of numbers so you should be fine
 
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I have full surface scan data for the SLC and we were sponsored by a CFD company while racing the factory Slc
The guy running the CFD is ex McLaren and he did the MP4 12 C and P1 aero studies
So as I said we did many hundreds of connotations of Aero and it's amazing how small of a change makes a big difference.
I don't see you plan on racing your Slc so you're not looking for those kind of numbers so you should be fine

Ya, I can imagine such aero work to be a big part of a race budget. But, without it, you would lose too many races to have a budget at all for long. Lol.
I have tried following alot of the changes you have made on the green car, and the raised fenders on the white car. I am sure there is more.
 

Larry L.

Lifetime Supporter
This was not directed to you Larry or anyone else. Just trying to explain abit of why I did what I did and the theories behind it.

I'd have taken no offense if you had! 'Hope you know I'd intended no offense to YOU either...

So who wants to test it on the west coast? rockonsmile

ME!!! I'm not qualified...but, your question didn't stipulate one needed to be! :sneaky:
(...and I only live about 4-5 'driving' hours north of you...which I could cover in 1 or 2 with the proper motivation...)
 
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Follow the lead of green and blue race cars ...

I will check them out in further detail. I could only imagine how much time I would spend on it if I had that software. I would be trying to make stuff that resembled a labyrinth! Lol.

Or, just get back to basics, and a who gives a xxxx attitude like this guy. Haha. Atleast he rounded the corners a little.

Edit- just noticed the dash under the number. Apparently he is afraid people will think it is a 6 if he is tires up and people can't tell. Lol.

cadillac-series-6...monstre.-14d3dbb.jpg
 
I'd have taken no offense if you had! 'Hope you know I'd intended no offense to YOU either...



ME!!! I'm not qualified...but, your question didn't stipulate one needed to be! :sneaky:
(...and I only live about 4-5 'driving' hours north of you...which I could cover in 1 or 2 with the proper motivation!)

No probs Larry. It was just a pretty broad statement that I just happened to quote yours to reply with.
I do have a couple friends in socal that have the driving ability and a recent acquaintance of mine is Nickolas McMillen that is part of my local car group and pro driver for Nissan. He certainly has the ability! :thumbsup: And local.
 

Larry L.

Lifetime Supporter
No probs Larry. It was just a pretty broad statement that I just happened to quote yours to reply with.
I do have a couple friends in socal that have the driving ability and a recent acquaintance of mine is Nickolas McMillen that is part of my local car group and pro driver for Nissan. He certainly has the ability! :thumbsup: And local.

Sometime this spring (or whenever the weather is conducive), if you're agreeable, I'd like to pop down there and take an up-close look-see at that car.

It has to be absolutely s-t-u-n-n-i-n-g in person. :stunned:
 
Sometime this spring (or whenever the weather is conducive), if you're agreeable, I'd like to pop down there and take an up-close look-see at that car.

It has to be absolutely s-t-u-n-n-i-n-g in person. :stunned:

No probs. I should be pretty far along come spring. Hopefully.
 
My goal of having the headlights by last night went to shit. Apparently there was still a touch of moisture left in the sheetrock mud and my first two applications of bondo pealed right off after shaping it. Ugh.
So, in the oven it went for 20 mins and then good to go again. I can't find my spot putty, so need to go get more and take care of a couple pinholes, but other than that, should be able to start laying them up in a few hours. Excited about these little guys. Headlights can make or break and entire car!
I purchased another set of projectors that are 2.5" and have a solenoid that drops the parting line when activated. I have a 55w hid kit on the way, and hb2 bulbs that have dual xenon bulbs, one for high, and one for low. So unless I melt the headlights and lens off, I should be outputting retarded amounts of nice clear white light out of one single projector. Hoping to be testing by early next week.

 
My results using drywall mud in the oven have been less than stellar! (cracking)
Sometimes it's difficult not to rush things.

Looking good Scott!
 
Scrap the drywall mud and try actual plaster mix. You can buy it in varying cure rates and base your cure rate on the projected working time for any given piece. It's cheap and effective.
 
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