Shane's SLC Build

[Shane]

Wheel and Tire update.

Here is my solution to the Tire Poke Problem.

Wheels: Forgestar F14 19x9.5 semi concave part number F15199562P50. $485 a piece.
Tires: Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 - 265 30/19 They don't make the Michelin Pilot Super Sport in a 265 30/19 anymore. At least we couldn't find them. $412 a piece.

So this has cost me over $2k to fix this problem. I haven't received any feedback from RCR if they will help. This really was a mix up on their part, at least the wheels. Of course, I had to pick the tires, so I can kind of own that, even though it is listed on their website.

Since I have both now, here are the comparison pictures.

 

[Shane]

Body Mounting Update

So first things first I got the tub mounted. I like these finishing washers. Of course, I'll polish them later.

I used some kitty hair and washers to make a standoff for the B pillar mounts. They are 0.375" tall.

I mounted the A pillers flat on the cross beam and then used a piece of 0.375" flat bar where the front clam shell mounts.

Next, I got the rear clam shell mounted on the pivot. It is actually working really well.

I think it is starting to all fit together.

 

[Shane]

Well, after a lot of fighting with everything I made new tilt brackets for the rear clam. I couldn't get enough travel so the new ones are moved up 1.25". Everything seems to fit good now.

I also designed mounts for the electric actuators that I am using on the rear clam. I designed them so that the actuators push them up and down. BUT, the cool part is that if I lose power I can manually release the latches and just lift the clam up. It works awesome!!

 

[Brian Kissel]

Very cool Shane. Are those a hydraulic actuator ?? You did mention “if I loose power”. But is that to run a electric pump, or electric actuator. To manually release them, how do you gain access if the clam is down ??
I have a very old phone, and can’t see much, but, I’m intrigued with the idea. When I get done with dialysis, I’ll fire up my pc at home, and take a better look.

Thanks for posting it.

Regards Brian

 

[Shane]

Brian, I guess I should have explained it a little better, sorry. Here is the full explanation. I want to have the front and rear clam open with electric actuators. I have only designed and tested the rear, but I plan to do the same design on the front and the doors. My design comes from the problem with using electric actuators on the doors. Most people have a quick release pin and I don't really like that method. I wanted the electric actuators to open and close but then have a way to manually open the door without the need to unpin anything. Just open it normally.

The bullet actuators are not cheap! Firgelli makes the actuators and controllers. The controller is really nice. You can set the limits, speed etc. They can synchronize up to four actuators. I just used two, obviously.

So that is the design. Here are some drawings of the cylinder bore that I 3D printed.

The bore just slides over the bullet electric cylinder. I have a bolt that will limit the amount of travel when you are manually opening it. So the actuator can move up and down sliding the bore over the actuator. Or the actuator just stays in the down position and the bore slides over the actuator.

This is it installed, kind of. Don't mind the gorilla tape holding the mounts to the clam. Amazing enough, it holds really strong!

Here is a new video

 

[Brian Kissel]

That’s pretty sweet Shane. Thank You for the explanation and actual design in motion. Is there a way to control the bounce when fully opened or is that just because of the weight in motion.
I really like the design. Thank You for explaining it better.

Regards Brian

 

[Joel K]

Very nice innovation Shane. I wonder if the term they use in these actuators is “back drive” That is an electrical actuator you can manually extend and contract when no current is applied. In any event great work.

 

[Shane]

Yeah, I think when you back drive a motor it is just slow. Not that it couldn't work, I just wanted a fast way to open and close the doors, for an emergency, so I came up with this and tested it on the rear clam.

I would think if I got some long shock absorbers (don't know if they make them), it would take the bounce away. I could use gas struts, but I need them to compress closed, not pop open, if that makes sense? Not sure I have ever seen something like that.