Spacer inside the rotor hat .

[Rune]

I made spacers to fit inside the rotor hat on my brakes only for a better fit to the 6 taps .
Someone told me then that this is dangerous , could that be so ?
I can not see the problem but maybe some of you with more experience know better. I do not want to go for this if there can be problems

 

[Scott]

That type of spacer is is ok. (Most would probably suggest that you machine or buy new rotor hats with the correct offset) Some sanctioning bodies do not let you race with any spacers at tech. The key with that type of spacer is that it should be less than .500 thick from what I have read/seen.

The other thing that mitigates it in your case is the center-lock knock-offs or nut you are using. A lot of the factory Porsche turbos ran pretty thick spacers right from the factory. Scott

 

[Rune]

The spacer is made from aluminum and are 0.250" thick.
Rune

 

[Jac Mac]

Another issue of concern is that you now have an extra unseen 'gap' for any grit etc to become entrapped in every time you have a wheel off which can lead to disc runout/pad knockoff as well as wheels coming loose in use.

 

[Rune]

Jac mac I take that one. I know that I might introduce a coming problem. I might better make them in one piece, or use some epoxy and rivets.
Except for that, do you see some other challenges?
Rune

 

[Jac Mac]

Your also decreasing the amount of engagement on the drive pins, possibly thread engagement on the knock off's plus increasing the scrub radius by that amount of 0.250". That 'might' be enough to give tire/body contact issues and slightly increase the amount of effort required to turn the steering wheel. In your first post you mention a 'better' fit over the 6 drive pins, Is that the rotor hat on the pins or over the hub flange itself?
FWIW I always strive to hold the scrub radius to a minimum, makes for lighter steering and lessens the need for power assist.

 

[Dave P]

Another issue of concern is that you now have an extra unseen 'gap' for any grit etc to become entrapped in every time you have a wheel off which can lead to disc runout/pad knockoff as well as wheels coming loose in use.

This would be the main issue I would be concerned with. I would not use rivets or epoxy. You could drill the hat and spacer in threes places. Then drill and tap the hub. Chamfer the holes in the hat and install flat angle head machine screws so heads are below the surface

 

[Rune]

I solved the problem by open up to 5/8" holes on the rotor hat and then the rotor hat and the wheel moved in 1/4" and I'm happy with the result.

Rune