That time just after you decide but before you know what you want

[Frank Clark]

You will need rivnuts. There are places the AL is too thin to tap for bolt sizes you will want.

IMHO, you need 1/4-20, 10-24, 10-32. You will also need taps in those sizes. And if you are like me, you need spares for the 10s.

 

[A.J. Schreder]

AJ - appreciate the pic. Looks like the track splitter has a significant tunnel in comparison to the street modification pieces (wider)? It also has the inlet portion of the tunnel directed toward the center of the splitter underside.

I was glad to be able to post it. That's one of the things I don't think has been shown before. After paying big bucks for the splitter, I was very disheartened to learn after receiving the car that the splitter is not complete. I always wondered why some cars had several fasteners with fender washers along the leading edge of the splitter. Well, that was to add strength. The splitter is just a form, with no internal support, and no underside. The fasteners were to secure plywood to the underside. This concerned me because I hadn't done any fiberglass work at that point and had no idea how I was going to pull this off. But I knew I didn't want those fasteners showing.

Troy introduced me to the expanding foam concept for fiberglass work which has benefitted me immensely. The supplier that sells the chemicals has varying densities. I will use the next step up on density from what I have been using, and fill the splitter with this foam. It sounds like the perfect solution. From their website: "This 8LB density foam is extremely hard and rigid, like that of a soft wood. Your fingernail can penetrate its skin, however it cannot be dented by hand."

Just be aware if choosing the track day splitter that there will still be a lot of work to do to it.

A.J.

 

[Ian Anderson]

One of these is excellent to grind fibreglass, aluminium, bolts, finger nails etc.

Black & Decker KA900E Powerfile - Belt Sanders - Sanders & Polishers - Power Tools | Axminster Tools & Machinery

Ian

 

[Will Campbell]

Just be aware if choosing the track day splitter that there will still be a lot of work to do to it.

A.J.

There's only a "lot of work" If you want to.

Like you, I prefer the look of the splitter without the bolted-in wood reinforcements.

I am running the carbon fiber version of the track splitter with no reinforcement, with no ill effects so far.

Just a data point.

 

[John]

One of these is excellent to grind fibreglass, aluminium, bolts, finger nails etc.

Black & Decker KA900E Powerfile - Belt Sanders - Sanders & Polishers - Power Tools | Axminster Tools & Machinery

Ian

Nice. I've been looking for one of those.

 

[Dan Carter]

John

Take a look at Harbor Freight for the thin belt grinder. It's an air driven one and if you take advantage of their 20 % off coupons it's less than $20. Their stuff is not known for industrial quality, but I've had mine for home use for a while and works fine. You will need to buy their belts as well as they seem to be unique width.

 

[Mark]

While we're on the subject of fiberglass, what do people like for epoxies to glue pieces together? For example gluing the headlight mounts to the front clam. Preferably something with good shelf life, I don't expect to use a lot of the stuff.

 

[Cam]

While we're on the subject of fiberglass, what do people like for epoxies to glue pieces together? For example gluing the headlight mounts to the front clam. Preferably something with good shelf life, I don't expect to use a lot of the stuff.

I snagged this from Howard's build:

This stuff is maybe more suited for building up areas with fiberglass in addition to joining.

 

[Walter Williams]

Corvette panel bonding material worked for gm

 

[Michel]

While we're on the subject of fiberglass, what do people like for epoxies to glue pieces together? For example gluing the headlight mounts to the front clam. Preferably something with good shelf life, I don't expect to use a lot of the stuff.

Be carefull in sourcing proper components ;

Epoxy resin = perfect for bonding much more efficient than polyester resin !!

Cabosil = no this is used only to add to resin when filling radius or watever hole, it's advisable to use similar stuff in aspect "FLOX" but completly different as this stuff makes the epxy resin much more sticky and it's done added to the resin and hardener to make aperfect bond !!!

Ch0pped fiberglass = yes in certain conditions !! When the space in beetwenn the 2 parts to bond is far too big adding 3mm long chopped fiberglass to a mix of resin plus hardener and FLOX prevent this thick bonded seam to brake with eventual vibrations

Acétone = absolutly mandatory to clean perfectly the surfaces just few seconds before to do the bonding !!!

And remenber absolutly !!!

Gluing or laminating epoxy onto polyester is ok !:blank:
Gluing or worse laminating Polyester onto epoxy would do a drama !!!!!:sad:

Hope this helps
Apologises to "hack "the thread but as a former "composite old crocodile" I was keen to remeber those important tricks !!!!:drunk:

 

[Jack]

I use Plexus MA300
A filled Merthiolate based adhesive.
Permanently bonds any substrate to fiberglass, period!
Sandable and paintable too. Will tear the fibers out of FRP when tested.
Two component used with a mixing tip, several cure times available.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Plexus is our goto product also

 

[Dan Carter]

Plexus is good stuff.

Just for a reference. In our collision repair center, we repair more Corvettes than I hate to admit, and GM requires panel bond in many of its glass to glass repair joinery.

We have taken samples and once cured we used our hydraulic dent pullers to test strength and ripped the glass apart before seeing any signs of the bond pulling apart.

Good overview by Michel.....thanks.

 

[Cam]

I've had a few birdies whispering in my ear to just pull the damn trigger. I was planning on holding off on contacting RCR until the new website was up so I could see all the available options without having to go back and forth with RCR like an undecided fool. The birds are starting to win ...

I'm torn on wheel choice. All the wheel choices look so damn good. I haven't seen very many cars running the CF10 option. Does anyone have any pics of a completed car with this wheel? I've seen the partially assembled one in the 1500hp thread but was trying to get a better idea/more angles on a bodied car.

Door cards - I've heard a few grumblings about not getting them. Reason I've heard is they can be a bit bulky. Anyone who has the door cards installed and prefers without? Anyone without and prefer that they had gone that route?

 

[Michel]

Plexus is good stuff.

Good overview by Michel.....thanks.

:blank::cheesy::cheesy:

 

[PeteB]

I was going to go with the CF10s, but the tire options are pretty limited.

 

[Cam]

I was going to go with the CF10s, but the tire options are pretty limited.

What are the recommended sizes?

Edit - found that the recommended for 19s is 325/30/19 so if running a 20" rear closest is 325/25/20 but makes the tire 0.4" taller. Tire rack has Michelin PSS, sport cup 2, and Pirelli p zeros. Yep, not much of a selection! And they're all high dollar options

 

[John]

IMHO, you need 1/4-20, 10-24, 10-32.

If I'm buying boxes of these, what lengths are the most commonly used?

 

[A.J. Schreder]

If I'm buying boxes of these, what lengths are the most commonly used?

I was looking for similar info before I bought my slc. Allan was considerate enough to post some part numbers from McMaster which helped, but there's no way to tell you what you will need the most. You will use WAY more than you anticipate. 1/4-20 1/2" & 3/4" have been heavily used for me, but 10-32 1/2" has also been a big one (I just noticed this size and washer are missuing from the picture below because I'm currently using them). I also have lock nuts and washers for each. All in stainless. There's 316 and 818 grades of stainless. 316 is higher quality and costs nearly double the 818. It is corrosion resistant in submerged salt water environments. I switched to 818.

This gives you an idea of what I have bought since buying the slc. The tray holders are from harbor freight:

Hope this helps.

A.J.

 

[Scott Rowland]

818 is basically a 304 stainless, but a generalized name for the lower 300 series of stainless. In my experience, 316 isn't much more money really. Just purchase from your local bolt supplier, not a place like a hardware store or home depot. You will get raped for it.
My new business is based on 316L use only. It is the only thing that has a fighting chance of making it in a salt environment. 304, or 818, will rust. Trust me. Also, be sure to use antiseize on the threads. S.S. likes to gall under even lower torque ratings. That means locking into your rivnut and overpowering the rivnuts clamp load, spinning it. Bad news.