Your opinion and please don't flame me to bad!

[Bill Bayard]

Re: Your opinion and please don\'t flame me to bad!

Eric,

From the profile shot, you can see that the height of the door sill grows quite a bit toward the front(should be even). That might be a pain to fix, as you'll have to re-work the sills and doors, in order to get a straight line.

Bill

 

Re: Your opinion and please don\'t flame me to bad!

It actually is even just the weight of the body crushing it. Not that it matters as I have cut that whole bottom off and rolling some aluminum sheet for the bottom.

 

[Bill Bayard]

Re: Your opinion and please don\'t flame me to bad!

Eric,

I would weigh the cost of modifying the body, building a chassis and then finishing the car vs. buying a proven kit at the right price, before jumping in head first. I'd hate to see you do a pile of work and then have it drive like a school bus! Occasionally, there is a bargain rolling chassis for sale. I think that your estimate of 8-10K to finish(minus paint) is conservative. Add 25%+ for the unknown surprises that will inevitably pop up.
Maybe you should look into the "Meatmobile"(M40)? Proven donor chassis(?), and relatively cheap kit.

Bill

 

Re: Your opinion and please don\'t flame me to bad!

Nathan, Can you post or email photo of what you are working on? Check out the kellison web site sure looks the same. I have orig kellison assembly manuals and again looks the same. This kit was also produced by allied plastics for a short time. I'd be interested in what you are working on. Thanks

 

Re: Your opinion and please don\'t flame me to bad!

Nathan, can you post or email photos of what you have? The body in Erics photo matches the orig kellison assembly manual I have and looks like the ones on the web site www.kellisoncars.com This design was also produced under the company allied plastics for a short time. I'd be interested in what you are working on. Thanks

 

Re: Your opinion and please don\'t flame me to bad!

Bill, I agree with what you are saying in that if i wanted just to have a gt then this would be way easier and probably more economical in the end. But, I have modified, built, restored and fix so many cars that it has become boring, I want to do the build from start to finish for more of a challenge, if I could have taken a splash from a body and do that work myself too, I would have but that wasnt available so this is the next best. It may be hard to understand why I would want to do it like this but I would bet most of the gt40 manufacturers have started this way, built stuff, got bored, wanted more challange then thought hey, this is a business. I am not interested in the business end of it but I need to do it this way to keep it interesting. As for performance and handling, I have copied the C5 vette suspension geometry right down to the millimeter, including the wheel offset so assuming the shock guys got the spring rate and valving right, it should handle well. The frame has to have an integrity test for me to insure it (all kit cars here require it) so I will know of any flaws and have to fix them if they occure. Lots more work and "wasted" money if it is not right the first time. I have to admit to using various ideas from the kit manufacturers for building my frame so hopefully I wont need to do too much redesigning in that aspect, but i can definatly say I have overbuilt some things that didnt nesecarily need it but I will take the peice of mind over the weight penalty any day. By the way, without panelling or a roll cage yet, i can still lift the frame, barely though.Anyways, I seem to have hijacked this thread from Joebio and that's not fair to him but I hope this helps him decide. I say if you got the guts to try, do it, you will make it happen and it is the easiest way to start building something if you cant afford to do it the less complicated way.
ps, i agree i think i have that kellison one

 

Re: Your opinion and please don\'t flame me to bad!

Eric, Good planning takes time but goes a long way towards achieving what you want. Some people have more skills and understanding for doing this kind of work, most don't. Yet most still underestimate the time and cost to completion. I would be interested in more of what you are working on as I have taken on a very similar build plan. Could you post or email some pics of what you have or have worked up? It sounds like we are using similar ideas. Thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

Re: Your opinion and please don\'t flame me to bad!

Don't worry about hijacking my thread, interesting reading. As you build your chassisdid you plan it out on paper, drawings etc? Basically what would I have to do to get a copy of them /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Nathan]

Re: Your opinion and please don\'t flame me to bad!

Here are the pix of my body when I got it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Nathan]

Re: Your opinion and please don\'t flame me to bad!

#2 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Nathan]

Re: Your opinion and please don\'t flame me to bad!

#3 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Nathan]

Re: Your opinion and please don\'t flame me to bad!

#4 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Bill Bayard]

Re: Your opinion and please don\'t flame me to bad!

Eric,

To quote a friend of mine, "God hates a coward!"
It sounds like you've thought this through pretty well.
Have at it, and best of luck! I'm looking forward to seeing
your progress. Please keep us all posted.

Bill

 

[Lynn Larsen]

Re: Your opinion and please don\'t flame me to bad!

Neal, the reason for the weird look from the cockpit back is that these cars were designed to use one of the few transaxles that were affordable back then and stronger than a VW: Corvair. Now the Corvair is not built like a ZF, Porsche, Audi or most any other that places the diff between the engine and the gearbox. The Corvair was just an in line transmission and diff in a single housing. With the diff way out behind the transmission, you get a helluva distance between the front of the engine and axle line in the back. Hence the big, long rear clip from the wheels to the back of the doors. (I guess this is the B pillar area; I think I know that the A pillar is the the post beside the windshield, right? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif ) Nothing says you have to use Corvair today.

To my way of thinking, right now, the Audi 5000 is the cheapest transaxle. If you put a dollar value on torque handling ability, I think the Porsche 915 or maybe 901 would be it. Only thing about 915s is the cable clutch. That can be re-engineered to hydraulic. I know at least one guy who has done it.

Go for it and have a ball! If you enjoy it, to H-E-double hockey sticks with what anyone else thinks. Even those of us with "quality GT40 replicas" have to deal with those with "real" GT40s (or insert any car with a replica here.) Someone will always think he/she is better than someone else because of what he/she owns. People who think like that don't have a clue! (Most of them were just in the right place at the right time. I know they had to act on opportunity and plenty wouldn't have the gumption to do that. But, it isn't that rare of a quality to make them feel any "better" than anyone else. Then there are those rare birds who just work their butts off and deserve every nickle they have; I don't mind if they feel a little superior, but most of them don't ;-)

Stepping down off of soapbox,
Lynn