Jim's RCR Build

[Randy V]

Good work Jim..

Make sure you get some sort of support up to that spider to keep it elevated otherwise the windshield will not fit and your door alignment will change.
I made a support brace system coming from the top of my roll cage to the spider both front and rear which will make the spider 100% more stable and repeatable alignment even with removing and reinstalling the spider a dozen times.

Here are a few pics for you that I have not put up on my website yet just in case you are curious

This is looking up at the center of the spider at the top of the windshield.

I put side supports on the top of the cage front and rear and drilled, screwed into the spider here.

 

[Jim]

Nice job....I told you it was not difficult ...it just required patience....

Coming along well...

You are right Fran. My problem is in the patience department! It's amazing how you things become clear once you dig into it. The support and information on this forum is outstanding! You always read people posting it but you don't realize how invaluable it is until you are in the middle of a build.

 

[Jim]

Good work Jim..

Make sure you get some sort of support up to that spider to keep it elevated otherwise the windshield will not fit and your door alignment will change.
I made a support brace system coming from the top of my roll cage to the spider both front and rear which will make the spider 100% more stable and repeatable alignment even with removing and reinstalling the spider a dozen times.

Here are a few pics for you that I have not put up on my website yet just in case you are curious

This is looking up at the center of the spider at the top of the windshield.

I put side supports on the top of the cage front and rear and drilled, screwed into the spider here.

[/QUOTE

Thanks Randy. The pictures didn't post? I'll go to your site. I do have a "temporary" support right now. You make a good point, I should locate exactly where I'm putting the support so I can re-establish it with percision everytime I put the spider on and off. I used your 27-5/8" height as a starting point. With my wind shield in place it's closer to 27-3/4 but I'm still "dialing it in". I am really enjoying the build process. I wake up every morning with some new thought on what to do next....

 

[Jim]

Randy, pictures showed up! Thanks

 

[Chris Kouba]

...and the doors will not rub the top of the roof!

I'd wait til you select and temporarily install your weatherstripping before calling this a victory. There will be some pressure from the seal to the door surface which will affect your panel gaps (ask me how I know...).

Chris

 

[Chuck]

I'd wait til you select and temporarily install your weatherstripping before calling this a victory. There will be some pressure from the seal to the door surface which will affect your panel gaps (ask me how I know...).

Chris

Absolutely true!

 

[Jim]

I'd wait til you select and temporarily install your weatherstripping before calling this a victory. There will be some pressure from the seal to the door surface which will affect your panel gaps (ask me how I know...).

Chris

Yep! I hear the two of you. I did install the weather stripping that Chuck used. I know I still have a long way to go. Chris, I have been through your build site many times! I know you know! This week I tackle the dash fitment. Took a look last night. I'm sure I will continue to tweak as more parts come together.
Good times!

 

[John Shaner]

Here is some info on the Porsche transaxle that was on another member's thread that you may find helpful:

1987 911 G50s have an 8 digit code stamped in the bottom, for example 'G50/0073H'_'12/00050'
• G50/00 = G50 trans
• 7 = trans for 6 cylinder
• 3 = 5-speed Rest of World; 4= 5-speed USA/Japan/M298)
• H = 1987 model
• 00050 = serial number

A 1988-89 trans has a 12 digit code, such as 'G5000 1 J 00903'
• G5000 = trans type (see below)
• 1 = normal differential (0= no diff, 2= ZF ltd. slip diff)
• J = 1988 model (K= 1989)
• 00903 = serial number

Transmission types:
• G50/00 = 911 Carrera, R.o.W.
• G50/01 = 911 Carrera, USA/CND/J/AUS
• G50/02 = 911 Switzerland (very short gear ratios)
• G50/50 = 911 Turbo world wide, 1989 only
• G50/52 = later Porsche turbo boxes ZF ltd. slip

That is an awesome looking 331...how did you happen to choose Keith?

 

[Jim]

Here is some info on the Porsche transaxle that was on another member's thread that you may find helpful:

1987 911 G50s have an 8 digit code stamped in the bottom, for example 'G50/0073H'_'12/00050'
• G50/00 = G50 trans
• 7 = trans for 6 cylinder
• 3 = 5-speed Rest of World; 4= 5-speed USA/Japan/M298)
• H = 1987 model
• 00050 = serial number

A 1988-89 trans has a 12 digit code, such as 'G5000 1 J 00903'
• G5000 = trans type (see below)
• 1 = normal differential (0= no diff, 2= ZF ltd. slip diff)
• J = 1988 model (K= 1989)
• 00903 = serial number

Transmission types:
• G50/00 = 911 Carrera, R.o.W.
• G50/01 = 911 Carrera, USA/CND/J/AUS
• G50/02 = 911 Switzerland (very short gear ratios)
• G50/50 = 911 Turbo world wide, 1989 only
• G50/52 = later Porsche turbo boxes ZF ltd. slip

That is an awesome looking 331...how did you happen to choose Keith?

Thanks for the info John. I went with KC because of the reputation in the industry and the total package/ price. I also considered DSS. A friend of mine had a good experience with them as well. KC also offered a zero balance flywheel at no additional cost as well as engine assembly (short block to long block) for $400. I won't know how it runs for a while but it sure looks pretty!

 

[Jim]

Working on the dash install. Still have a lot of moving parts but it's getting there! I don't know about other cars but the roll bar on mine is very close to the "edges of the dash".

Still need to "push the dash" forward to mate with the post. A little more cutting required. Makes me nervous!

I was thinking of covering the entire dash with leather. Still need to understand how to terminate the leather by the gauges. There is a natural transition in the dash now but I need to figure out how to terminate it cleanly.

My 6'3" friend/neighbor getting out of the car. It's an unorthodox way of exiting. We need to work on that one... He has been helping every night.

How do you guys finish this area? Right now it will be exposed. Is there a trim piece that people are using?

How about this area? I was thinking of making a "kick panel" to hide the fuel fill line.

 

[Randy V]

Jim,

I have my A-pillar bars closer to the windshield A-pillars, but yes, you still have to cut a bunch off of the sides of the dash in order to make the dash removeable. Figure out also how you will retain those corner pieces. I plan on welding a tab going forward from the A-pillar bar and bonding a chunk of oak to the bottom of the cut off dash corner. Then a simple screw through that tab and into the wooden block will hold it well in place.

Another conundrum is how to retain the dash itself. I have not yet solved that problem. It appears that the leading edge of the dash is an interference fit under the front of the spider (under the windshield) and will require some massaging to allow the dash to be extracted without loosening the spider. Also to think of is the AC distribution channel that runs from side to side under the dash. With the dash sliding to the rear, it will have to clear all of that business as well..

Kick panel - I think it's one of those things I will leave for the future. I really don't think that it will be very visible unless you are ducked down looking under the dash.

Another thought -

You may be able to Get your A-pillar bars in a little closer to the windshield if you file the top of the tub so it fits better into the angle iron that the tube is welded to..

 

[Jim]

Jim,

I have my A-pillar bars closer to the windshield A-pillars, but yes, you still have to cut a bunch off of the sides of the dash in order to make the dash removeable. Figure out also how you will retain those corner pieces. I plan on welding a tab going forward from the A-pillar bar and bonding a chunk of oak to the bottom of the cut off dash corner. Then a simple screw through that tab and into the wooden block will hold it well in place.

Another conundrum is how to retain the dash itself. I have not yet solved that problem. It appears that the leading edge of the dash is an interference fit under the front of the spider (under the windshield) and will require some massaging to allow the dash to be extracted without loosening the spider. Also to think of is the AC distribution channel that runs from side to side under the dash. With the dash sliding to the rear, it will have to clear all of that business as well..

Kick panel - I think it's one of those things I will leave for the future. I really don't think that it will be very visible unless you are ducked down looking under the dash.

Another thought -

You may be able to Get your A-pillar bars in a little closer to the windshield if you file the top of the tub so it fits better into the angle iron that the tube is welded to..

I like your last thought Randy. There is a little "extra" metal where the vertical and horizontal meet. That might help push the roll bar forward. I'm running out of material on the dash! The other thing is trying to push the roll bar ends in board where there is more meat on the dash. They seem too far out board. I left the garage scratching my head tonight. I'll figure it out. Thanks for the ideas.

 

[Chuck]

Jim:

Pics attached. Comments:
1. Reinforced backs side of lower sections of fiberglass dash where bolt holds to chassis. (Detailed in the book / blog) (First picture)
2. Corner of dash needs to be trimmed to (a) clear the roll bar and (b) clear the edge where the dash meets the spider.
3. The roll bar should clear the spider without the dash being placed. if so, I would not try to relocate it. That would be painful. The dash can be trimmed to fit if you know the roll bar clears the spider..
4. I did not cut the chunk out of the corner of the dash, as seems to be the current trend. Having done so, to secure the removed piece, consider using an aluminum plate about one inch wide, half inch exposed, secured with flush screws to the main section permanently, than use nutserts on the half inch left exposed so the small section can be screwed in place. I can send pics of a similar set up in anothe application if that does not make sense. There is no stress on that section, so it won't take much to secure it.
5. Two quarter inch button head screws secure the lower front sections of the dash to the chasses (which is why reinforcing was placed on the back side). The chassis was drilled and taped to take those screws. That screw is visible in the last picture.
6. McMaster-Carr P/N for the 1/2" wide x 1/16" thick adhesive backed foam rubber seal (8694K11) along the leading edge of the spider where it contacts the dash will prevent any sqeaks.
7. First two pics taken when car originally built. Last three taken today.
8. Note the cut out in the fiberglass to clear the mounting plate for the roll bar. The edges of the dash are trimmed with sections of weather stripping.

Hope this helps.

That is all you need to secure it. Trust me. It will be very tight once the spider is tightened down.

 

[Jim]

Jim:

Pics attached. Comments:
1. Reinforced backs side of lower sections of fiberglass dash where bolt holds to chassis. (Detailed in the book / blog) (First picture)
2. Corner of dash needs to be trimmed to (a) clear the roll bar and (b) clear the edge where the dash meets the spider.
3. The roll bar should clear the spider without the dash being placed. if so, I would not try to relocate it. That would be painful. The dash can be trimmed to fit if you know the roll bar clears the spider..
4. I did not cut the chunk out of the corner of the dash, as seems to be the current trend. Having done so, to secure the removed piece, consider using an aluminum plate about one inch wide, half inch exposed, secured with flush screws to the main section permanently, than use nutserts on the half inch left exposed so the small section can be screwed in place. I can send pics of a similar set up in anothe application if that does not make sense. There is no stress on that section, so it won't take much to secure it.
5. Two quarter inch button head screws secure the lower front sections of the dash to the chasses (which is why reinforcing was placed on the back side). The chassis was drilled and taped to take those screws. That screw is visible in the last picture.
6. McMaster-Carr P/N for the 1/2" wide x 1/16" thick adhesive backed foam rubber seal (8694K11) along the leading edge of the spider where it contacts the dash will prevent any sqeaks.
7. First two pics taken when car originally built. Last three taken today.
8. Note the cut out in the fiberglass to clear the mounting plate for the roll bar. The edges of the dash are trimmed with sections of weather stripping.

Hope this helps.

That is all you need to secure it. Trust me. It will be very tight once the spider is tightened down.

Thanks Chuck. Do you happen to have a picture of the dash with the door closed? I'm curious to see how the roll bar / dash/ door look in the closed position. Does the roll bar break the horizontal plane of the dash? I was trying to get the roll bar to be contained on the "top" of the dash with out cutting into the angled surface. Is that possible? Right now mine is dangerously close. I'm still fitting it and not sure it will work that way. I now understand the cut out image with the plywood insert. Had me stumped without seeing the other images. Thanks again for sharing.

 

[Jim]

Well it's been a while since my last post. The dash and roll bar took some time to figure out. I'm almost there with that one. I'll post the pic's later. In the meantime I have been working on the rear deck lid. Thanks to Tom's foresight and creativity I made the "forks" that will allow me to quickly put the deck lid on and take it off. Still need to counter sink the bolts and put the right bolts on there. Not bad for a prototype. Just need to do a little tweaking. Anyone know where I can get a couple of bobbins or hard plastic so I can create a groove in it?

 

[Brett James-McCall]

Jim,
If you have a lathe (or access to one) order some hylon or similar from McMaster and make your own up?

Brett

 

[Jim]

Jim,
If you have a lathe (or access to one) order some hylon or similar from McMaster and make your own up?

Brett

Thanks Brett! McMaster has everything!

 

[EGLITOM]

Dear JIM

nice job on the rear clip mountings. Are you going to build the the original style rear frame as well ?
If so, find attached a sketch which i did for it. ( also the dimension of the bobbins for my "forks" and spacer dimensions)

TOM

 

[Jim]

Dear JIM

nice job on the rear clip mountings. Are you going to build the the original style rear frame as well ?
If so, find attached a sketch which i did for it. ( also the dimension of the bobbins for my "forks" and spacer dimensions)

TOM

Thanks Tom! Well, I haven't posted in a long time.. I finally figured out my dash, the plenum (tight fit) and the door jam clearance. I will post photos soon!

 

[Jim]

Quick update... Well the dash is installed in the car and I have been fine tuning the doors (still not there yet but getting there), the AC box is mounted. Here are a few pictures. The one big question I have revolves around the passenger side "scoop". You can see in the photo that it is pushed way outboard of the car (over 1/4"). In the photo the driver side is mated up nicely with the rocker and the spider. The passenger side looks good from the top of the door down to the top of the scoop, then it gets pushed out. Any ideas oh how to correct this one?