slc Ls 376 and grazziano
- Thread starter silverback
- Start date
There is absolutely NO issues with removing the small amount of webbing....direct from GM engineers...the OEM sump is not structural in that its detrimental to the engines well being or longevity.
If using a race dry sump system such as Dailey/Auto Verdi/ARE the oil pan no longer has the OEM mounting bolts either...
When we fit the drivetrain for customers we do the 2 minutes of material removal de rigeur
I did not want to have to make anymods to the transaxle, as they are brand new units I wanted to keep them stock and not create any issues should anyone need to return one to Graziano for warranty etc...
If using a race dry sump system such as Dailey/Auto Verdi/ARE the oil pan no longer has the OEM mounting bolts either...
When we fit the drivetrain for customers we do the 2 minutes of material removal de rigeur
I did not want to have to make anymods to the transaxle, as they are brand new units I wanted to keep them stock and not create any issues should anyone need to return one to Graziano for warranty etc...
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Mahlon,
Thanks for the comments on the 911 alignment tool. As the tools are cheap and I've never done this before, I'm hoping to find one that is an exact fit, but if there isn't one out there, the 911 tool sounds like it could be a good fallback.
Thanks for the comments on the 911 alignment tool. As the tools are cheap and I've never done this before, I'm hoping to find one that is an exact fit, but if there isn't one out there, the 911 tool sounds like it could be a good fallback.
It looks like the 6mm x1.0x75mm bolts for mounting the clutch to the flywheel are going to be about 4 mm too long; the unthreaded shank of the bolt protrudes beyond the end of the clutch housing (when the starter ring gear is in place). I am going to order some 6mm x 1.0 x 70mm bolts and see how they work. I suppose I could just use three washers to make up the difference, but I'm going to try the shorter bolts, anyway.
Dave mine do go all of the way through the flywheel as well, and just come out the back side. On the front there is still plenty of thread showing and with no clearance issue out back I just used them. I decided to keep them because I wanted to make sure I engaged all of the threads in the flywheel they seemed kinda small to me..............m:stunned:
In the Grazziano transaxle, Where is reverse? Top left next to first gear?
Back and down next to 2nd
It doesn't fit! at least not yet I guess. Took less then an hour to pull the rear clam, diffuser, wing, shocks loose, and everything out back to put the engine trans in. If the engine is hard mounted without mounts[I think I was told to do it this way] the transaxle hits the rear chassis x-member and doesn't have enough on the firewall side. I used a 1-1/2 spacer on the mount side lifting up the front it clears the firewall but still hits the x-member. The holes in the adapter [engine-transaxle] don't line up with the brackets on the chassis. I think I must just have the wrong ones. With the assembly high enough to clear all the chassis issues It looks like it will be really close to clearing the clamshell when we re-instal. RCR is on holiday break as well as the rest of us so I will have to wait until they are back to see about the right brackets and bushings. I don't want to re-event the wheel if they have the stuff sitting there, so I will wait to see if we need to fabricate some stuff. I guess for now its back to the gt-40's...........m
Mahlon, your car was originally a G50 car so Dean probably did not think to send you the spacers for the Graz. drop him a line and he will get them out to you if need be on his return..
Dave thanks for the pictures! It looks like you're back x- member is a billet piece and or is removable, mine is welded in place and is straight across. I have the same brackets [looks like] that bolt to the adapter and the chassis, I don't have the spacers that's not a big deal, but I can't lower the back of the grazziano down to make the holes on the brackets line up with the adapter because the grazziano is sitting on the x-member. Those bracket bolts go threw to the control arm. I also see some additional brackets back there that I don't have I am thinking those are for your diffuser? I had to put the 1-1/2 inch spacers on the motor mounts lifting up the front just for the front of the engine to clear the firewall It was nose down. looks like the x-member out back has to be modified/removed/replaced to get it low and lined up like yours..................your pictures are quite helpful........Fran I think I need to modify the x-member?...............m
Mahlon
you are correct , again as the chassis was originally a G50 chassis at a time when we were not Graziano conversant at the.
All the SLC chassis now have the lower billet chassis member that supports any transaxle from the Graz. to the G50 and everything in between....
As you are such a valued customer and if you feel comfortable enough to have the chassis welded I will gladly send you the billet crossmember ...it is welded in the same location but has more clearance
Just let me/Dean know as we have them on the shelf
you are correct , again as the chassis was originally a G50 chassis at a time when we were not Graziano conversant at the.
All the SLC chassis now have the lower billet chassis member that supports any transaxle from the Graz. to the G50 and everything in between....
As you are such a valued customer and if you feel comfortable enough to have the chassis welded I will gladly send you the billet crossmember ...it is welded in the same location but has more clearance
Just let me/Dean know as we have them on the shelf
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Dave once again thanks for the pictures they are most helpful! unfortunately they have just confirmed that my cross member wont work I am going to have to either weld in the style you have, or come up with a bolt-in solution. Fran I am glad I am a valued customer:thumbsup: I may take you up on the offer for the weld in billet x-member I will take a real close look today to see what I think the best solution is. I am not comfortable welding in the x-member as your chassis will not fit either one of my frame jigs. It Is aluminum and even with the proper steps to try and keep It cool I know how much heat my tigg welders generate. I don't think I want to chance It, we will see. Fran I still think I am glad you talked me into the graziano as I am sure It Is the best choice for our probable future h/p needs and Is a strong and brand new transaxle. I will keep everybody posted on what we come up with:idea:............thanks guys.........m
Do you have access to a Mill/Bridgeport?...if so you could actually machine the billet and make it a bolt in conversion by trimming the tubular cross member and then cross bolting it to the original chassis tube.
What torque is recommended for the clutch pressure plate bolts?
In Allan's video, he mentions 25 ft-lbs, but this is much higher than the normal recommended torque for 6 mm bolts.
Also, the bolts I was planning to use are grade 8 hex head, but in the video, Allan is using socket head. I think socket head bolts are normally grade 12.9, so this helps, but even a 6mm grade 12.9 bolt normally carries a maximum torque of only 12 ft-lbs; half of the value Allan references.
In Allan's video, he mentions 25 ft-lbs, but this is much higher than the normal recommended torque for 6 mm bolts.
Also, the bolts I was planning to use are grade 8 hex head, but in the video, Allan is using socket head. I think socket head bolts are normally grade 12.9, so this helps, but even a 6mm grade 12.9 bolt normally carries a maximum torque of only 12 ft-lbs; half of the value Allan references.
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Fran I am not quite sure I follow? I do have access to a lathe as well as Bridgeport. I looked at the x-member and sketched up steel x-member that I can bolt in place. That allows me provisions for tie downs for the car hauler. I have set It up by trimming the center of the x-member away leaving 6'' on both sides of the original x-member as bolt in points, I can x- bolt it in and am comfortable with its strength [at least it looks fine on paper] have not done it yet, wont happen until this weekend or next week. I think you are talking about the same thing cutting the x-member leaving an amount on both sides and c-channeling it so the billet piece slips in the channel and x- bolts threw right maybe?........................m
That's exactly what I was talking about....channeling and dropping in the CNC crossmember
Thanks Fran!:thumbsup: I talked to dean this am and have decided to just do a steel x-member. I do like the idea of putting your billet one in the mill machining It down and dropping It Into the channel but I think it will be just as strong in the steel if not stronger the way I am planning to do It. I will box it off and x-bolt It and I can incorporate the tie downs for transport....................................m
