Roaring Forties 66

quote by Clayton
She must rate it pretty highly, I was asked to pick her up from school in it.
Was even given instructions on where to park and at what time :laugh:

Thats awsome, 16 and knows how to work the public.

My daughter wanted all the specs and info on my 40 because she told me that you bring it up in the company of males you had them in the palm of your hand, but being knowledgeable was the secret.

If she starts asking questions you know why.

Jim
 
quote by Clayton
She must rate it pretty highly, I was asked to pick her up from school in it.
Was even given instructions on where to park and at what time :laugh:

Thats awsome, 16 and knows how to work the public.

My daughter wanted all the specs and info on my 40 because she told me that you bring it up in the company of males you had them in the palm of your hand, but being knowledgeable was the secret.

If she starts asking questions you know why.

Jim
It actually made me smile. She crossed the road as if nothing was out of the norm and calmly climbed in. All this in front of hundreds of kids with their iPhones going off. :stunned:
She definitely got noticed that day....

Haven't been quizzed about the specs yet.

The 40 has been booked in for the end of year formal already....

Clayton
 
To tuck the rear cross member up and out of sight. The member had to be a triangle cross section with an additional cut out for the gearbox rear housing on the forward face.
Plus revised pivot points for the rear clip added as well.
This was temporary fitted to the original member before the clip was removed.

Clayton
 

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Braced the new cross member and removed the original top stays.
Added in the new stays.
Removed the lower cross member, but left the suspension pickup points for reference later.

Clayton
 

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The new lower chassis member would now be too high at the suspension pivot point area. So using the pickup brackets as a drill jig, I relocated them forward to the bulkhead. The stepped hole goes through both sides of the box tubing.
Removed the remaining chassis pieces.

Clayton
 

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Finished the rest of the tubing off in the same style as the original chassis.
Machined up threaded inserts for the lower pivot points and welded in place.
Added a bracket so the rod end would be in double shear (bolt to be lock wired for security)
Using the existing upper pivot point mounts as a jig, welded in new brackets and supports.


Clayton
 

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Next was to make new gearbox mounts. At that stage I was going to use the std rubber engine mounts and make a more positive gearbox mount, to stop the forward and aft movement under accel / deaccel.
I'm replacing the hard plastic setup bushes for shackle bushes as the elastomer.

Clayton
 

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Here's the finished mounts tig welded by a mate.
Again, I should have bought a tig welder back then and maybe by now I could tig....
As it is I only purchased one a year ago and still trying to learn.

Clayton
 

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Gearbox mounts finished, fitted gear shift linkage.
Notice that the A arm is fitted in its original position for reference only and that the bracket would have been lower than the new chassis member.

Clayton
 

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Rear clip was refitted to check clearances. There was about a ¼” gap between the clip and rear cross member, nothing like cutting it fine…

Clayton
 

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To help with placing the exhaust collectors as lower as possible, the removable cross member was cut down and boxed in.

Clayton
 

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As this was going to be mainly a street car, I thought I should put in a bit more Ackerman into the steering. I moved the rack back around 50mm, which nearly lined up with the tie rod ends. This now gave an intersection point about a metre behind the rear axle centreline.
The problem now, the steering intermediate shaft would be closer to my feet. So re-machined the uprights to fit the tie rod ends on top of the arm (raised it around 65mm).
To gain more foot space, I rotated the rack so the input was higher at the back. In the end, I only lost 20mm of the foot well (bulkhead moved backwards).

Here’s the suspension dummied up to work out the final rack position to minimise bump steer.
Spent a lot of time shimming the rack up, down and sideways……

Clayton
 

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Rack mounts finished
To give me some adjustability in the future, between the chassi mount and aluminium adapter block, is a heap of shims coming down to 0.010”thick.

Clayton
 

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Intermediate steering shaft fitted.


Clayton
 

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While trolling through all the photos, I found a few pics of the old man’s custom Holden FX (48/215 for the diehards….. )
And its yellow as well....:shocked:

Clayton
 

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Back to the rear.
Made some new A arms and set up the suspension to check for roll steer.
Found I had to add around 3.5 degs of caster to stop toe out in bump.

Clayton
 

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Then decided to make new clevis's for the trailing links.
At the same time machined out the uprights to accept 1/2" bolts for the pickup points.

Clayton
 

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To help with welding underneath, made a rotisserie that hung from the I beam. This came in great use when at the panelling and painting stage.

Clayton
 

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Time to build a pedal box.
Started with a length of 50 x 20mm bright mild and carved out a brake and clutch pedal. Luckily for me, the old man is a fitter & turner and I had access to the workshop.

Clayton
 

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Working from an AP Racing pedal box drawing, I came up with the ratio and spacing that would work.
Modified the chassis bulkhead to accept the three AP masters as well.

Clayton
 

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