Doug’s RCR Jaguar D Type Build.

[Doug M]

Chuck, good question. I live in West Virginia, and I’m sure things are a bit more relaxed than in other states. The certificate of origin from RCR ( or whatever it’s called- I’m not home to look at it) is a 1955, which by WV rules, means it’ll be grandfathered in like an antique even though it’s a ‘new’ car.

It does add another complication, but actually I spent more time researching and web searching for ideas and parts than I did installing it.

It was a great deal easier, too, since I decided to use bucket seats.

 

[Neil]

Chuck, good question. I live in West Virginia, and I’m sure things are a bit more relaxed than in other states. The certificate of origin from RCR ( or whatever it’s called- I’m not home to look at it) is a 1955, which by WV rules, means it’ll be grandfathered in like an antique even though it’s a ‘new’ car.

It does add another complication, but actually I spent more time researching and web searching for ideas and parts than I did installing it.

It was a great deal easier, too, since I decided to use bucket seats.

Where in WV, Doug?

 

[Doug M]

I haven’t posted in a long time as I’ve been busy with life stuff. But I’ve been making some progress on my build, and I’ve recently solved the door hinge problem that’s been plaguing me since last summer.

The RCR supplied door hinges were poorly assembled, especially the right side driver door. Not much was square and the holes didn’t line up exactly. Tried to make the hinges work, and they sorta did, but there was a good one inch of wobble and sag when opening and closing the door.

RCR’s suggestion to ream the bolt hole one size bigger didn’t help. After that, many calls and emails for an exchange went unanswered. I even made an offer to pay for a new set of hinges and got no response.

Explored a different hinge design, tried making my own… all fruitless endeavors.

Finally had a brainstorm and drew out a poster board template and took it to my local metal place. Solution was adding a 90 degree top part of the hinge to steady it out. 1/4 aluminum was probably overkill, but I don’t want to have to do this again in a few years with a completely built car.

So with some creative grinding for a good fit and experimenting with various washer thicknesses, it’s all back together and tracks perfectly with only a millimeter or two of wobble (which I can definitely live with).

So for those who are building this kit and have yet to get this far, feel free to use this idea if you like. I’m very happy with it.

 

[Chuck]

I haven’t posted in a long time as I’ve been busy with life stuff. But I’ve been making some progress on my build, and I’ve recently solved the door hinge problem that’s been plaguing me since last summer.

The RCR supplied door hinges were poorly assembled, especially the right side driver door. Not much was square and the holes didn’t line up exactly. Tried to make the hinges work, and they sorta did, but there was a good one inch of wobble and sag when opening and closing the door.

RCR’s suggestion to ream the bolt hole one size bigger didn’t help. After that, many calls and emails for an exchange went unanswered. I even made an offer to pay for a new set of hinges and got no response.

Explored a different hinge design, tried making my own… all fruitless endeavors.

Finally had a brainstorm and drew out a poster board template and took it to my local metal place. Solution was adding a 90 degree top part of the hinge to steady it out. 1/4 aluminum was probably overkill, but I don’t want to have to do this again in a few years with a completely built car.

So with some creative grinding for a good fit and experimenting with various washer thicknesses, it’s all back together and tracks perfectly with only a millimeter or two of wobble (which I can definitely live with).

So for those who are building this kit and have yet to get this far, feel free to use this idea if you like. I’m very happy with it. View attachment 146857View attachment 146858View attachment 146859

Excellent idea, nicely done.

 

[Doug M]

I had originally planned to just go with a very simple cable setup to open the door latch, but I thought I’d borrow / blatantly steal from the Book of Chuck and try a better design.

If you’re also following Chuck’s build, then it’s very obvious that his work is more “Concours d’Elegance” and mine is more “Beyond Thunderdome”… I had some leftover aluminum pieces, so I fabricated a basic handle system that should go well with the old race car aesthetic once the interior is completed.

Unlike Chuck, I don’t have access to a mill, so to help reduce wobble and such, a stack of 3/16 x 1.25 inch washers were carefully reamed out with a 1/4 drill bit to create a tight fit with a 1/4 bolt. Also, some thin spots in one of the fiberglass doors made the attempt at artful minimalist latch mounting look like complete hackery, so I did it the easy way. Once the doors are finished, it’ll look just fine.

 

[Steven N]

Hi Doug, I feel your pain about dealing with RCR about design inequities, after receiving my XJ13 kit I sent photos of all such things some very glaring issues like my door hinge pillars being welded upside down from factory. After waiting over one year for a steering rack they sent me some cobbled together unit nothing resembling what should have been. After many quibbles with King Mufasa you get nothing , you are on your own. After paying top dollar, in the end it is a slightly better kit car. You see how Chuck has completely reengineered his so called factory designed. These kits will test all your skills

 

[Doug M]

Hi Doug, I feel your pain about dealing with RCR about design inequities, after receiving my XJ13 kit I sent photos of all such things some very glaring issues like my door hinge pillars being welded upside down from factory. After waiting over one year for a steering rack they sent me some cobbled together unit nothing resembling what should have been. After many quibbles with King Mufasa you get nothing , you are on your own. After paying top dollar, in the end it is a slightly better kit car. You see how Chuck has completely reengineered his so called factory designed. These kits will test all your skills

No doubt, Steven. I can only speak for the D Type kit. Overall, I really like it, but it is a prototype kit and compared to other kits with roofs and proper doors and such, the D Type is very simple and there’s not a whole lot to go wrong by comparison. Still, the issues have been challenging, but the D Type is my dream car and I’m enjoying the challenge of learning new things.