How to load 40 in an enclosed trailer

[Pat]

Question for the group that trailers their gt40. I have an aluminum ATC 24’ enclosed trailer with DS escape door. ‘Regular’ cars work great with this escape door but wondering how you would load the gt40 with the engine and trans in the rear? If I back it in I would have the drivers door on the passenger side of the trailer so no escape door and no way to get out. I could winch it on in reverse but then I would need a level area to do this, and then I would still need to figure out a way to winch it out. Does everyone just load the gt40 straight in? If so any problems with weight distribution? I’m a long way away from this but just wondering for the future.

thanks!

 

[Michael]

From what I’ve come across on searches, winching it in seems to be the preferred method, either straight in or backed in. I’ve also seen where some folks remove the driver’s door. And one nut (me) climbed out (and back in) through the part opened roof opening… fortunately, I was still fairly nimble and slim enough for an old fart to make it without damaging anything. Any future trailering I will do the winch method…

Btw, there was no side door on my buddy’s enclosed trailer.

 

[DaveM]

I always loaded mine rear first to get trailer weight distribution right. If you load front first you may not have enough tongue weight and trailer will be squirrely. An electric winch works great, but you do have to get the car lined up straight as you won't be able to adjust the steering wheel.
I had an 18' trailer and still had room to get in the side door and around the back to tie the car down and activate the winch.

 

[Doug Dyar]

I load mine rear end first for weight distribution reasons.
It's really easy to winch it in myself. I can access the steering wheel all the way up the ramp, so minor steering adjustment is possible. My winch has a remote, so I can move around the car as it goes in to make sure everything is ok.
I have prepositioned two wheel chocks for the rear tires to bump up against. I adjusted the tongue weight and trailer balance the first time I put this car in this trailer, and the wheel chocks ensure I'm getting it in the right spot each time.
I prefer to use 4 individual ratchet straps, one on each tire, to hold the car down.
Using this method, I can load the '40 by myself, and be ready to roll in about 20 minutes. I always stop within a few miles of leaving to check the load, and every gas and pee stop thereafter.
Keep an eye on trailer tires and wheel bearings. I manually touch each one when I stop. If any seem hotter than the others, it's time for a closer look. They will warn you of impending failure. You just have to look for it.
Safe trailering!

 

[Bill Kearley]

No problem with that Pat, same trailer, Just park a little further ahead. I installed 4 more anchors in my ATC a little further forward

 

[Chris]

For those that may have trouble accessing steering or may not have lined the car up straight enough, I recommend keeping two slips of perspex long enough to go under the front tyres and a can of wd40. The idea is to spray one board of perspect with wd40 and place the other one on top. Back the front wheels onto it and there will be enough slip between the perspecx sheets to be able to manually push the front of the car over to the left or right using the wheels. For the sake of next to zero space, its a simple, if inelegant solution

 

[Jim Albright]

If you need to make minor steering corrections as the car is winched up/down the trailer ramp, you can just grab the front wheel and move it a bit - I have loaded my Lola several times solo and with a remote for the winch it's a relatively easy process.

 

[BenL]

If you need to make minor steering corrections as the car is winched up/down the trailer ramp, you can just grab the front wheel and move it a bit - I have loaded my Lola several times solo and with a remote for the winch it's a relatively easy process.

I just did that today and it worked for adjusting the position of the car on the trailer ramp.

 

[Malcolm]

Engine first and then slide across and slip out the passenger door of your car?

 

[Bart Dirkx]

If you need to make minor steering corrections as the car is winched up/down the trailer ramp, you can just grab the front wheel and move it a bit - I have loaded my Lola several times solo and with a remote for the winch it's a relatively easy process.

I do the same. First line out best you can. Then winch it in end first. A remote control is very useful here. Otherwise you need two people.
As long as the car is on the ramp I can access the steering wheel for making adjustments. Once the door ends reach the trailer, access to the door will be blocked unless you can open the driver’s window / the driver’s window is removed.
After that there is only one way to make adjustments and that is by pushing and pulling the front wheels. For me this only works on the coated aluminum trailer door. Once on the trailer floor they won’t budge.

 

[Randy Folsom]

Found this on YT. He uses an inexpensive motor from a HF winch mounted to a bracket. The winch drive has a spine the fits a steering wheel quick connect.

 

[Bart Dirkx]

Brilliant! Love this idea. There is some room for improvement, but is does the job.

 

[Randy Folsom]

I am installing a brace that supports the underside of the dash. I was going to use a piece of 1” x 1” aluminum angle stock, but I think I will use steel instead and add mounts for the remote steering bracket.

 

[Rob Klein]

I used tire straps

 

[Randy Folsom]

I used tire straps

Rob, I spent a few hours last night looking through all your build pictures. Your car is amazing. For sure I would not add brackets to hold a remote steering unit to your car. Cheers, Randy

 

[Rob Klein]

Rob, I spent a few hours last night looking through all your build pictures. Your car is amazing. For sure I would not add brackets to hold a remote steering unit to your car. Cheers, Randy

Thank you! It was a long build but worth it.

 

[Gary Sharapata]

I pull in and back my GT40 out. With having the big side door and removable fender I can get in and out of the car. I also installed a big 24 inch mirror up in the front of the trailer so I can see both sides of the car and just line it up with the air track. I pull the car pretty far forward to get the wt of the engine transaxle closer to the front axle and it tows fine. I have a 24 ft aluminum trailer. You can see the red tape on the floor is where I put the middle of the rear tire when towing.

 

[BenL]

I also installed a big 24 inch mirror up in the front of the trailer so I can see both sides of the car and just line it up with the air track.

I like the idea of adding a mirror to help with loading. I even have an unused mirror hiding in my carport.

 

[Darius Rudis]

With the custom trailer I built for my last racecar, I simply winch it up.
The ONE time I tried going in reverse, had major frustration aligning... and never again.

Winch on/off quite easily gong in forward, especially with remote keyfob winch. Provide steering till I cannot reach any longer, and by then, it rolls straight into final destination.
I also used the corner-weight scales to balance the trailer for correct tongue weight, so no trailering issues.

 

[Warren]

Had one made with a winch, easy, rides perfectly with rubber axles and electric brakes too.