Chris's AK GT40 Build

manta22

Neil

Supporter
1

Chris

manta22 said:
It is probably too late to consider alternatives at this point, but AVEX rivets are my choice for blind rivets. They have a retained stem which improves their shear strength and the stems won't vibrate loose, Their grip range is unusually long and they are available in many head styles and alloys. https://www.austinhardware.com/avex...0VqPWWiScfh8anTn9EbPrKjsL3U-Y2PA2UB66CHl9UPEb
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Thought it was a leading question , but it's definitely too late to change them!!! Although with the adhesive and the rivets I can't see the panels ever moving
 
V

Andrew

Supporter
I was going to ask the same thing. Thanks. I am shocked they don’t use an aviation style structural rivet like a cherry max.
 
1

Chris

otto69 said:
I’m surprised they don’t supply sealed / closed blind rivets to keep water out of the chassis tubes.
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I thought I'd give this a test to see how water tight these rivets are, so I setup a little water reservoir with a rivet at the bottom, I'm sure it's not rated to IP68, but over 24hrs it didn't leak any water, not a drop (obviously you can't see the water because it's transparent!!), the car won't be sitting in water for a day, ever, but if it is I suspect I've got bigger problems than a bit of water ingress ... saying that I will probably seal the underneath of the car anyway

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I

Chris

Hi Chris, Chris in Denver Colorado here or Kurbmeisterklotz on YouTube.
Just checking out your build. Everything looking very solid and detailed!
I too am building a GT40 and have been documenting it on YouTube. Im 3 years into it. Working bodywork/ panel fitment.
Hope you're having as much fun as me. I will be watching as im thinking of my next build might be a AK!
Keep going. Kurbmeisterklotz
 

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B

Douglas

Lifetime Supporter
156Chris said:
I thought I'd give this a test to see how water tight these rivets are, so I setup a little water reservoir with a rivet at the bottom, I'm sure it's not rated to IP68, but over 24hrs it didn't leak any water, not a drop (obviously you can't see the water because it's transparent!!), the car won't be sitting in water for a day, ever, but if it is I suspect I've got bigger problems than a bit of water ingress ... saying that I will probably seal the underneath of the car anyway

View attachment 152322
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Yeah, I am not sure why everyone assumed they were hollow rivets. Good proof for the curious.

I have had a few that had the stem pull free and leave it hollow, but I just drilled them out and put a new one back in.
 
1

Chris

Exciting news, my engine is being delivered tomorrow, it's coming out of a '67 mustang, the owner got it all rebuilt/upgraded and then decided it was too powerful for the car so he's just putting a stock blueprint engine in it. Having gone out in the car I can confirm that the Mustang has no brakes and handles like a boat and was the scariest car I've even been in!!!

mustang.png
mustangengine.png
 
S

Steve Dean

Hi Chris,
Is the engine the original from the 1967 Mustang? If you post the block casting number then one of us on the forum will confirm the date it was built. If it is 1967 (or possibly a tad earlier) then it will only be visible smoke test at IVA. But you will still need to provide an engine dating certificate that is acceptable to the inspector.
Cheers
Steve.
 
Hendrickx Paul

Paul Hendrickx

Supporter
Steve Dean said:
Hi Chris,
Is the engine the original from the 1967 Mustang? If you post the block casting number then one of us on the forum will confirm the date it was built. If it is 1967 (or possibly a tad earlier) then it will only be visible smoke test at IVA. But you will still need to provide an engine dating certificate that is acceptable to the inspector.
Cheers
Steve.
Click to expand...
The cylinder heads have the 3 vertical bars so they are at least 1986 gt40 heads .... so yes the block number is needed
 
Hendrickx Paul

Paul Hendrickx

Supporter
Steve Dean said:
Hi Chris,
Is the engine the original from the 1967 Mustang? If you post the block casting number then one of us on the forum will confirm the date it was built. If it is 1967 (or possibly a tad earlier) then it will only be visible smoke test at IVA. But you will still need to provide an engine dating certificate that is acceptable to the inspector.
Cheers
Steve.
Click to expand...
should be 1993 first year of the gt40 heads
 
1

Chris

Ok so the casting id is "34 E7TE CA" (at least that's what I can make out under the layers of paint which I think makes it a 87-95 roller cam block. And the date code is "9K5" which I think makes it a Oct 1989, so too new for just the smoke test but old enough not to need cats
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S

Steve Dean

Hi Chris ........ the first two characters of E7TE i.e. E7 is 1987. However I believe the character T can relate to 1987-92. The E on the end just means, Engine.
Some of our world wide chums on here (probably from the USA) will be along soon to add further input.
Clearly the Mustang had an engine change at some time.
I would talk to the well known UK engine builders of Ford lumps asap, as I'm not sure if they will issue an engine dating certificate on a engine they've not rebuilt/supplied (although they may do for a fee).
Cheers
Steve.
 
1

Chris

Steve Dean said:
Hi Chris ........ the first two characters of E7TE i.e. E7 is 1987. However I believe the character T can relate to 1987-92. The E on the end just means, Engine.
Some of our world wide chums on here (probably from the USA) will be along soon to add further input.
Clearly the Mustang had an engine change at some time.
I would talk to the well known UK engine builders of Ford lumps asap, as I'm not sure if they will issue an engine dating certificate on a engine they've not rebuilt/supplied (although they may do for a fee).
Cheers
Steve.
Click to expand...
According to Google T means truck, 9K5 is actually the date code 9 is 1989, K means October and 5 means the 5th ... Google can be wrong though
 
1

Chris

Got the radiator mounted on 10 mm rubber bobbins. They kill vibration, stop the chassis from stressing the tanks, and let the whole thing expand without fighting the mounts

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B

Brian Kissel

Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Neil, Those won't work. They only take a 8-32 screw. Much to small for a radiator mount. You can not drill them out to take a .250-.312 bolt which is commonly used. That is not their intended use.

Regards Brian
 
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