And so it begins...the AP build.

Douglas

Lifetime Supporter
I sent Joe a link I found. Othe Joe... not Joe builder but other Joe builder....

 
Oops, I may have given you the first dead end I ordered from. I ended up getting them from Clarendon Fasttrack. They were a vendor listed on the Aerocatch website.
 
I hate moving, but discovered that winching the car in from the back tow hook might be easier than driving it in. I suspect that it would trailer better too, with the motor weight in front of the trailer axles.
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Haven't had any time to actually work on the car, but usually have a little free time at the clinic to look for reference material. Lots of photos on Legenday Motor Car's website.

 

Chris Kouba

Supporter
Haven't had any time to actually work on the car, but usually have a little free time at the clinic to look for reference material. Lots of photos on Legenday Motor Car's website.


Wow, that is a great run of pics. Thanks for the pointer.
 
…and there it sets. It’s easy to understand how some of these projects take so long. Still haven’t got the new shop completely sorted, but able to start getting some projects finished on the 66 fastback: oil cooler system and new Speedhut gauges, and starting to get rolling on the GT again. The goal for the summer will be to get the body fitted and gapped (new weather stripping) and into primer by the fall. A lofty goal, but having air conditioning as well as heat will help with the Iowa summer weather!
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Get it close, then start cutting, moving, adding, and subtracting….thats the new plan. The body has been off since the start…as I suppose they all are. Trying to get good gaps with what was shipped is impossible and an exercise in futility.
I started from scratch…again…by loose fitting the doors, spider, and windshield to fit the already fitted rear clam and rockers. Then I could bolt down the front lower corners of the spider. The lower windshield area of the spider will have to be cut and widened. Still not sure why that area is off so much.
Then I discovered that the passenger hinge would have to be reworked for more in-out adjustment. After the door hinges were clamped in place, I rigged up a jig that would allow to remove the doors and hinges so that the body hinge holes could be re-drilled in a better location that would allow for them to be clamped more accurately.
It’s actually been a productive weekend.
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With the front bottom of the clam flush with the rad support floor, this is what I have at the door and spider seams. Wondering it taking a wedge out of the fender side (where the original seam is) would remedy the door and spider seams?
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Kyle

GT40s Sponsor
Ran into a similar issue with my body, not by the same guys. Not sure you’ll be able to draw it down by taking that wedge. I’d cut a horizontal line about 1/2 in above the latch area and drop it there. You may have to adjust your fender curve then too but that’s easy.
 
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