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from the pics it looks like you removed about the same as I did, maybe a bit less in some areas (I got grind-happy). point is, you have to grind the snot out of that area to prevent it from binding on the front clip

unless the mold was changed over the years you have to grind the doors to clear the upper corner ... the door 'digs' forward going up so you need a clearance there ... several of us spent a few months ho'ing and hum'ing about it a decade ago before we all came to the same conclusion and just...

You need to trim the door corner significantly ... i had to remove a really sketchy amount of material but it's been fine for over 10yrs.

It's a pain-in-the-ass with the race tail to have to pivot the diffuser when you want to open the rear clip, can't imagine what an even bigger pain-in-the-ass it would to work with the streettail.

Ask the manufacturer. The torque on my 04 cobra rear axle nut is 250ft-lbs. The torque on a corvette rear axle nut (or effectively stock SL-C rear axle) is 118ft-lbs. If you over-torque you damage the bearings.

because I was able to buy an 800hp engine for $20k that can go 200+k miles on oil changes alone and doesn't sound like a vacuum cleaner (granted this was 5yrs ago so prices have likely gone up since then).

I'm glad to see there's an option in the event something happens. Our of curiosity I thought you needed special tools to work on it that Ricardo only gave Stillen?

Option 3 - manual Swagelok ball valve plumbed in line with brakes. Easy peasy :)

When I was looking at cameras for my SLC the general internet advice was to avoid Tadi Brothers. That said, that was 10yrs ago and a lot can change in a decade (for good and bad), but before doing any ordering I'd surf through the internet to make sure they have positive feedback these days.

Not a clue - I don't use wipers on any of my cars. If I had to guess I'm certain continued use of the wiper would marr it at a minimum (as you're rubbing dirt across it when you're cleaning the windshield) Whatever coating Shields uses is definitely tough as nails and at least as durable as...

Not if you're smart and use the lexan windshield ... SOB fits however I tell it to fit, haha!

I stole Howard's design as inspiration :)

I kept it simple and added a "baffled" sump, a -12 pickup, all top-mount AN fittings/sender, no crazy threaded fill elbow and enlarged the crossthrough tube to about 5x the original size (I don't like things touching the gas tank). No problems in over a decade...

water temp - sounds like the system isn't fully bled yet throttle pedal - have you lengthened the wiring harness? if so that could trigger it. Alternatively it could be a problem with the harness itself - I got a gmpp harness where the throttle pedal would randomly stop working. I returned...

6 years later it's time to drain and refill .... on a non-inverted 930 (i.e., normal orientation), the drain plug is the hex plug located on the very bottom of the transmission, correct? Just want to make sure as I've never drained it before and I've read if you remove the wrong bolts then...

I would be very surprised that it would take a new shape unless it sat there for like a decade. When I was replacing my slc's engine I had the rear clip just sitting on the floor for 7 months. When I put it back on all my quick release pin holes and tolerances lined up exactly (which have to...

buy some Longacre toe plates and do it the easy way ...easy peasy

they're mounted off the transaxle and chassis (with rubber isolators) .... everything's solid mounted so there shouldn't be any flex .... nothing's broken in 5 years so it must be okay no cooling issues - the fans almost never come on (i forget if they come on at 190* or 200*, but regardless it...

I agree w/ the $15-25k number I made the mistake with my cobra and went with a low bid initially Then I had to re-paint it, which took almost a year because of all the issues caused by the first body guy.

very fast - hopefully you got at/near your asking price.