Scott
Lifetime Supporter
Kyle, I sent you a PM regarding the steering rack.
Howard, the discrepancy in thread length only exacerbates the need for a spacer. The splines are simply too long for the hub. The stub axles are from The Driveshaft Shop. The deep cones are from their Nissan product line, hence the "NI" in the part number. RCR said that they'd send me a spacer, but I don't like that approach. If you're building a SL-C, you should check if you need a spacer.
Howard, I've read your thread on the race-worthy-hubs several times. Apparently Agile Automotive had solved this problem, in almost the exact same manner , years ago. They upgrade their SL-C's to the 33 spline stub axle and the SKF 33-spline ZR1 hubs (they have active rather than passive sensors). They recess the socket head cap screws as done by others, but rather than chamfering the upright they machine the stub axle due to the high forces placed on the uprights. They also drill a hole through the upright, de-pin the sensor's connector, pass the wires through the upright and then re-pin the connector. That works on the race suspension, so I assume I can do the same. That said, I assume that I'll need to mill a slot into the backside of the hub spacer (the large triangular one with three dowels) so that the sensor wire can reach the hole in the upright.
Howard, the discrepancy in thread length only exacerbates the need for a spacer. The splines are simply too long for the hub. The stub axles are from The Driveshaft Shop. The deep cones are from their Nissan product line, hence the "NI" in the part number. RCR said that they'd send me a spacer, but I don't like that approach. If you're building a SL-C, you should check if you need a spacer.
Howard, I've read your thread on the race-worthy-hubs several times. Apparently Agile Automotive had solved this problem, in almost the exact same manner , years ago. They upgrade their SL-C's to the 33 spline stub axle and the SKF 33-spline ZR1 hubs (they have active rather than passive sensors). They recess the socket head cap screws as done by others, but rather than chamfering the upright they machine the stub axle due to the high forces placed on the uprights. They also drill a hole through the upright, de-pin the sensor's connector, pass the wires through the upright and then re-pin the connector. That works on the race suspension, so I assume I can do the same. That said, I assume that I'll need to mill a slot into the backside of the hub spacer (the large triangular one with three dowels) so that the sensor wire can reach the hole in the upright.