Got a 351W with 6.58 rods in my workshop - narrowed 400M rods, Cleveland bearings, Pin bore sleeved to .927, KB276 pistons. Converted to Hydraulic roller, Edelbrock E205 heads 2.08"/1.6"Yes, there is/are heaps of options out there now for 289-302-351w. One Ive got a guy interested in at moment is a 351w, but with 6.58'' rods , 1,18" pin height pistons from the 331 stroker and the 351 crank. ( 272 Y-block se bush's push straight in for floated pin, all done. Interesting thing is his current engine is a plain jane 351w with the 6.03" rods from a 302 Aussie Cleveland as we have discussed before. He had it on a rolling Dyno locally & the Dyno operater asked how big it was, told him 351 and got into a bit of an argument, Dyno guy reckoned it was strongest 351w had ever had on board and that included all the 400 plus strokers he had seen.
What does it run like Kevin, I built a 351w Block, 400 crank, 6.58 rod SVO Nascar Cleveland head version many years ago, Torque Monster, progressively broke every thing in the driveline before it ripped the whole crank/ main web assy out of the block.Got a 351W with 6.58 rods in my workshop - narrowed 400M rods, Cleveland bearings, Pin bore sleeved to .927, KB276 pistons. Converted to Hydraulic roller, Edelbrock E205 heads 2.08"/1.6"
Thanks for the heads-up, Neil. I'll look into those.Eddy, if all the bearings and crank journals look like that, have the crank re-ground to the nearest undersize, chamfer the oil holes, and polish the journals. I replaced the Clevite 77 bearings in my 383 Donovan with King pMax Black XP rod and main bearings when I tore it down the last time. I recommend them.
Thanks for the heads-up. Is it worth having it modified for one-piece seal when I take the block & crank for machining? And any recommendations for a good compromise of price vs. quality on 302 gasket sets? On my water-cooled Ducatis, the factory changed from composite head gaskets (with crimped fire ring) to a multi-layer-metal style with much improved sealing (and smaller squish / quench). To get the squish band to 0.8mm you change the cylinder base aluminium gasket / shim. I think these MLM gaskets are available for Ford small-block, too?Your new full engine gasket set will likely have a two piece rubber rear main seal, when you remove the existing rear main seal its very likely the pin will still be in place in the rear main cap, you MUST remove that when you use a two piece rubber rear main seal. The two piece seal should also be fitted to the cap & block in a 'one up ,one down' fashion to align the seal ends
You measured that @ .011 " back in post #34 with the worn bearngs, Should be good to go with new stuff since factory setting is 0.004'' to 0.008". If any wear it will be on rear thrust face of crank since it sees most of the load from clutch or torque converter. many autos seem to have more of a wear problem at that point, often caused by wear on pump drive tangs/flats.Crank pics and measurements...
And the scores on the doors (those of a metric indisposition should look away now...!)...
All mains are at 57.11mm = 2.248"
And all rod journals are at 53.92mm = 2.123"
That's the end of the main dismantling, and it's been a relief to find a 50-y-o engine that's a sound base for a rebuild. I can't believe how good the crank is, given the state of the sludge in the bottom of the sump, the bearing shells and the dead cam.
Edited to add:-
The distance between crank webs at #3 bearing (where the thrust bearing lives) measures at 1.139" using a sprung-loaded bore gauge and the mic. Bit fiddly to do; what should the dimension be at this point?