Any advice on putting a 1g dsm engine and tranny in the APEX as stated in previous post
4G63 & the APEX
- Thread starter Guillaume NL
- Start date
Just different mounts.....will not be a problem
Thanks for the quick response Fran !
Fran already mentioned the mount...in the standard eclipse there are also issues mounting the 1g tranny in a 2g...don't think you have the issue with apex however (or he would have mentioned it). Usually people opt for the 2g tranny anyway (assuming you have it) cause they are better. I also seem to remember ECU issues with the cam angle sensor or knock sensor when going 2g to 1g (not sure if this is issue only when mixing 1g block/2 g head).
Check out this writeup by Magnus. Also tons of 1g swap threads because of the hyped crankwalk issue.
http://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/1gina2g.pdf
Check out this writeup by Magnus. Also tons of 1g swap threads because of the hyped crankwalk issue.
http://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/1gina2g.pdf
I figured I'd stop cluttering the Apex thread with purely 4g63 questions and make use of this thread.
What are some of the best new, bolt-on turbos that would give in the range of 400-500whp with supporting mods?
I'm looking for a nice, quality turbo but it doesn't have to be top of the line.
What are some of the best new, bolt-on turbos that would give in the range of 400-500whp with supporting mods?
I'm looking for a nice, quality turbo but it doesn't have to be top of the line.
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Would the journal bearing be sufficient or would you recommend the dual ball bearing center?
Holset turbos will make that and are very popular...HX35 and HX40. Turbo discussion should probably also include the exhaust mani because you may only have t3/t4 options for some turbos and you may not be wanting to go tubular. Bullseye makes a bolt on housing for these turbos for the stock mani (or a cheap swap to the FP race mani).
Other popular options are the GT35R, FP red/green/black, Borgwarner 259/362
Other popular options are the GT35R, FP red/green/black, Borgwarner 259/362
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Is anything other than the housing from the link below needed to allow the holset hx35 to be run with the stock or fp mani?
Bullseye Power Stainless Steel Turbine Housing (Mitsubishi Inlet, Holset CHRA HX-35) - Modern Automotive Performance
I've done some research and am liking the idea of the holset.
What's the best way to obtain a nice hx35?
Yes...bolts on to mani and 02 housing. Check out the classifieds on DSM sites and also ebay. Assuming you are looking for used since you're asking. As a matter of fact....this isn't the bolt on but maybe better depending on what you're looking for. Seems like a good price too...5 hours....
DSM 1g 2G Holset HX35 Twin Scroll Setup | eBay
DSM 1g 2G Holset HX35 Twin Scroll Setup | eBay
Good price and great looking setup but I can't get myself to drop that kind of cash before buying an eclipse which won't happen until I see the Apex in the flesh :sad:
Thanks for the info though!
I don't know how it's like for you guys but in Canada you can easely find a drivable 2g talon for around 2k$
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WRT turbo choice, from what I have gathered the FP lineup is top notch. I will be running FP HTA GT3586R Ball Bearing Turbocharger http://www.forcedperformance.net/PROD/NTGT3586HTA.html
Might be a bit overkill, if I could have chosen, I would have prob opted for the
FP HTA DSM76 Ball Bearing Turbocharger
http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTDSMFP76HTA&Category_Code=DSM-Turbo
I'm no dsm guru but I have been trying to learn everything I could in the past year or so about those bad boys
Might be a bit overkill, if I could have chosen, I would have prob opted for the
FP HTA DSM76 Ball Bearing Turbocharger
http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTDSMFP76HTA&Category_Code=DSM-Turbo
I'm no dsm guru but I have been trying to learn everything I could in the past year or so about those bad boys
Hi guys,
I have been doing some research on talon road race car setup. As with every turbo race car, keeping coolant and or manifold air temp down is a challenge (not to mention tranny/engine/diff oil temp). The fact that the Apex will be a mid engine car will likely facilitate keeping the coolant temp down as the rad will see lots of fresh air in the front and hot air will have nice way out with the hood vent. The challenge will most likely in keeping the manifold air temp down as the intercooler will be at the back of the car with less fresh air exposure compared to a front mount set up. That being said what are your plan to address this challenge (guys planning on making power north of 350whp)
water/air intercooler....? intercooler
I have been doing some research on talon road race car setup. As with every turbo race car, keeping coolant and or manifold air temp down is a challenge (not to mention tranny/engine/diff oil temp). The fact that the Apex will be a mid engine car will likely facilitate keeping the coolant temp down as the rad will see lots of fresh air in the front and hot air will have nice way out with the hood vent. The challenge will most likely in keeping the manifold air temp down as the intercooler will be at the back of the car with less fresh air exposure compared to a front mount set up. That being said what are your plan to address this challenge (guys planning on making power north of 350whp)
water/air intercooler....? intercooler
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Super curious about this as well. This would be my first turbo car so I don't know much about the cooling but I want yo be able to track the car often.
I believe Fran said that there would be room for the intercooler up front though. That would probably require a water/air though.
I believe Fran said that there would be room for the intercooler up front though. That would probably require a water/air though.
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When I was doing all sorts of research on the Apex, it seemed to me that the car has 4 rear vent locations:
L&R C Pillar
L&R Quarter Panel
The puzzle I was trying to sort out was where to put intake & IC such that both get enough incoming air. If the quarter panels were left for brakes only (overkill?) then the C pillars might be ok for intake but too small for IC? That's just a guess though based on how FMIC's are done on DSMs. Maybe the brakes don't need the full quarter panel flow and you could use part or all of that for the IC.
Part of the puzzle is that intake and IC both feed from the same side in the stock configuration. That's why I really wanted to see a built up car w/o the bodywork. My own thought was that I didn't want to put a front mount IC and have to run all the extra piping for that. Again though, just based on thinking it over, not any actual visuals or experience with it.
L&R C Pillar
L&R Quarter Panel
The puzzle I was trying to sort out was where to put intake & IC such that both get enough incoming air. If the quarter panels were left for brakes only (overkill?) then the C pillars might be ok for intake but too small for IC? That's just a guess though based on how FMIC's are done on DSMs. Maybe the brakes don't need the full quarter panel flow and you could use part or all of that for the IC.
Part of the puzzle is that intake and IC both feed from the same side in the stock configuration. That's why I really wanted to see a built up car w/o the bodywork. My own thought was that I didn't want to put a front mount IC and have to run all the extra piping for that. Again though, just based on thinking it over, not any actual visuals or experience with it.
Explanation please :thumbsup:
Also, anyone know whether the front hood vent is functional?
As I understood it, the front hood vent pulls radiator heat out, and possibly FMIC if you go that route?
I'm guessing Jason means the openings in the rear underneath the taillights will help suck more air into the 4 vents I mentioned above (low pressure created by air coming off the back of the car will pull from the engine bay). Maybe that'd say you could get away with a smaller opening and still have enough airflow.
I'm guessing Jason means the openings in the rear underneath the taillights will help suck more air into the 4 vents I mentioned above (low pressure created by air coming off the back of the car will pull from the engine bay). Maybe that'd say you could get away with a smaller opening and still have enough airflow.
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