Aaron's SL-C build...

Thanks goes out to Kristin and Vickie at RCR today.. Great customer service ladies..

Now back to the regularly scheduled programming...

I fitted up the headliner panel and the bulkhead (interior panel). I have some ideas...
I'm planning to remove the body this weekend and start on the fiberglass items such as the roof air inlet closeout. While I'm in there Im planning to modify the roll cage. I'm widening the front hoop to improve visibility (thus making the A-pillars smaller). I'm also modifying the rear hoop cross-bar to improve the seat belt mounting. Don't ask.. lol
 

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:D:DI removed the body this afternoon with the help of my fabulous g.f.
Now that's she's all sweaty maybe we need a shower. Plan.. :D
 
I hope that whomever installed these at Fran's shop is no longer employed by his company.
Aerocatch backing plates missing on the front catches. No need when you pop rivet into the fiberglass I guess.. ???? :(
 

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I removed the front roll bar hoop and am replacing it with a wider version.

I'm doing this in an effort to open up the viewing angle and to reduce the need for such large a-pilar trim.
 

Randy V

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I hope that whomever installed these at Fran's shop is no longer employed by his company.
Aerocatch backing plates missing on the front catches. No need when you pop rivet into the fiberglass I guess.. ???? :(

Geeze... looks like some real precision chain-saw work on the trimming of those.... How hard would it be to actually recess those into the bodywork rather than sitting on top of it?
 
Aerocatch makes recessed ones so instead of modifying the body I would just buy that style but there really is no need. Also the front and rear bonnet likely pull upward from the main body so and I would say that you would want the flange of the aerocatch latch just like it is. I think the RCR selection is ok.
 
I worked all weekend on the SL-C and created a wonderful mess in my garage. I'm working on the main body and the roll cage as well. I final fitted the front hoop and prepped the rear hoop to move the cross bar upward and add seat belt guides. I'm also planning to add a seat brace.
 

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Tonight I fitted up the rear cross bar and made up the seatbelt guide loops.

It's welding time..

Another item that I feel is pretty much mandatory is a 4 car garage... You need a ton of space to build this thing.
 

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The front hoop and rear cross bar are welded and fitting is complete. I moved the steering column more outboard to improve the alignment with the drivers seat. The car is very comfortable to sit in now. I think the seat, steering wheel and pedals are aligned about as well as I believe they can be. The drawback for most people with this modification is that the instrument panel will not fit without modification. I'm planning to modify or make an entirely new instrument panel.
 

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I worked a little bit today on creating the down bar which will go from the front roll bar hoop down to the tub. I plan to attach my toe hook similar to Fran's SL-C racecar. Again, my toe hook will be have a different than tuner concept.
 

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PeteB

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The front hoop and rear cross bar are welded and fitting is complete. I moved the steering column more outboard to improve the alignment with the drivers seat. The car is very comfortable to sit in now. I think the seat, steering wheel and pedals are aligned about as well as I believe they can be. The drawback for most people with this modification is that the instrument panel will not fit without modification. I'm planning to modify or make an entirely new instrument panel.

Sorry I can't figure it out by looking at the picture - what did you change? Did you move the forward mounting points inward?
 
Pete.. I widened the forward bar mounting points. This will make the front hoop fit the body better and allow for smaller a-pillar trim covers. The cardboard cutout shows the difference. It's unpresidented ;)

This mod was also needed since I'm moving my IP and steering column better in line with the seat.
 

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PeteB

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Ahhh...I get it now :idea:. Looks good. Are you going to modify the fiberglass covers for the uprights or make some totally new ones?
 
I'm not sure just yet.. I like the concept of the originals. They could be used to support the side of the IP and not need to be removed if the IP needs to come out. I also like the idea of having a seperate defroster panel area as an IP support. I'll know more in a couple of weeks when I've got the main body back on.
 
Looks good. Pretty much exactly what I had planned to pull from with a screw in tow eye. Just cut hole in body above it, and put a rubber grommet to cover hole normally.
I have one from a Cayenne that would never break. I was a little worried about pulling from and angle like that though. The SLC is light enough though, that it shouldn't matter.
 
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