Active Power Cars GT40 Build...

[Neil]

not insulated yet but my coolant tubes will be wrapped with same sleeve JP mentioned. I seperated, my coolant runs inside tunnel and brake&clutch out side in center console. I also put a Recirculator on clutch so fluid cools down..View attachment 127048View attachment 127049View attachment 127050

Since the coolant tubing is running through a tunnel, you have an option of ventilating the tunnel to minimize the heat transfer into the cockpit. A small fan should be sufficient- something like a 12V centrifugal blower at one end of the tunnel should do it. Add a thermostat if you can.

 

[Matt]

I have a question in to a Ebay seller. They carry a 2 part, closed cell polyurethane pour foam. If it can tolerate long term exposure to 220 degree tubes. I'm thinking make a mold from wood, 3D print spacers to keep in place, and make an insulated multi tube solid foam rectangle that will have brake lines, radiator tubes, a heater tube and maybe even the A/C high pressure line in a single solid rectangular block of foam that can slide into the tunnel. All of the tubes on one end will have to be staggered so all of the connections can be made. Perhaps the brake lines and be left long and bent after sliding the tube in.

This sounds like a good idea. Love to hear more about it when you get a response...

 

[Brian]

I'm going to throw my 2 bits in on wrapping, steel and aluminum, 220 degrees and 1200 degrees.

I have heard many horror stories of mild steel headers rotting away under wraps. This is a very different condition to aluminum tubes with warm water in insulation.

First, the different characteristics of the metals.
When steel rust, it flakes off and exposes fresh steel to then take it's turns against oxygen.
Aluminum is quite different. When it corrodes, it turns into a durable and stable coating that protects the underlying metal. Some people pay good money getting that oxide layer. (anodizing)

Wrapped headers are a different animal. They routinely see 1200 degrees and are orange hot. Being insulated, they run much hotter that insulated pipes. This high temp and the vibration exacerbates the steel rust problem.

You're not going to keep a nice shiny polish on aluminum tubes under the insulation, but as long as it's not abrading it off, the dull oxide layer will protect the underlying aluminum.

I didn't write my doctoral thesis on this ( or anything else for that matter) but I'm pretty confident it'll hold true. Commercial plumbing all over the country has hot water pipes (copper) wrapped in fiberglass with plaster cast around it. Residential is more often polyurethane. Copper behaves the same as aluminum with regard to surface corrosion protecting the pretty shiny underlying metal. Would love to hear from anyone else with real learned expertise on this.

Honestly, my concerns are rattling (and abrading) and heating the tunnel. That's a big portion of the idea I have of a package cast in foam.

 

[Brian]

As I was typing, I got this answer...

​

New message from: fiberglasssupplydepot (7,333)

Good morning, The manufacturer states, "... final product should not be continuously exposed to temperatures greater than or equal to 225 degrees F ...". - FSD

I'll sleep on it, but I'm thinking sleeve the tubes in fiberglass sock, then cast in foam. Unless the engine is overheated, shouldn't see hotter than 210, and the fiberglass would limit the BTU input. I may skip the A/C high pressure as I think it gets over 250 degrees on a hot day.



Add- I just read theworldmaterial link. It backs up the corrosion resistance. I would guess everyone is using 6061. That's what I'm using here. For the heater hose, I may use copper. That's what the heater core is and I have a stick here, and some 90's so I can get it pointed the right way.

 

[Kyle]

Ok I hate to say this, but it’s funny contrasting the responses on this forum vs the factory five forums. Those guys are looking for a Lego set to put together and freak when something doesn’t go per the manual. Then you have a stark contrast here where everyone tends to overthink and creates way more work for themselves. Next thing you know you have a 10 year project car.

Joe has the perfect install. That tunnel looks incredibly small. Wrap it in a heat wrap, or foam and call it done. Run lines on top which is just as easy. I have foam pipe insulation wrap on my SLC tubes that run in the side pods, putting your hand on the foam you’d never tell the difference between hot/cold.

I promise you you’re going to have way more heat issues from a poorly insulated engine bay and foot box.

 

[Brian]

You certainly have a point there. LOL

But some things do warrant a technical discussion. This one may be not worth the air time it's getting.

I bet the biggest issue will be sealing every little hole in the front firewall so there is not blast furnace like heat blowing in through the hole where the steering shaft enters the cockpit.

 

[Matt]

You certainly have a point there. LOL

But some things do warrant a technical discussion. This one may be not worth the air time it's getting.

I bet the biggest issue will be sealing every little hole in the front firewall so there is not blast furnace like heat blowing in through the hole where the steering shaft enters the cockpit.

I'm the new kid in town, and certainly don't with to become a nuisance. I did call out earlier that I may be overthinking this topic, and it is certainly not my intention to dwell too long on it. I know I would be looking for a thread like this if I hadn't been the one to start it, and if someone besides me benefits from the read, then it really does make it worth the effort, IMO.

As this is my build thread, I'll be posting more exciting material as the build progresses in the hopes that is helps myself and others who have embarked on similar endeavors - so please stay with me, all, if you can. I'm sure along the way I'll have lots more questions, and some of them might even seem bone-headed to some folks here, and don't be shy on calling me out on it - I'm a big boy. If I'm overthinking something, just tell me. I'd rather spend my time on items that deserve the extra thought and attention.

I'm still working on wrapping up my existing project, but I should have that completed by April. Then I can resume full bore on this project, which I am really looking forward to. Until then, it'll likely be various not-too-exciting updates, or questions. My timeline is fairly aggressive for this build, however - giving myself 1.5 years from resumption of said build. So as time goes on, this should become a much more exciting thread that hopefully all can benefit from.

I really do appreciate the valuable input. i know everyone has bz lives and I appreciate the time you've all taken to provide me guidance, input, and comments thus far.

 

[Mike Sundberg]

Hey, Mike. Sorry to hear about your father. I'm sure he'd be very proud once you complete it, and it's a wide body too! Love it. I wouldn't have it any other way.

As a whole, the project is daunting, but I try to think of it in terms of lots of smaller projects, and attack it that way - Small projects that can be chipped away at. How far along are you? Does the pic you attached show the current state? I'd like to hear more about what you've done.

Thanks you. Here are a few more up to date photos. The rear shell needs latches fiberglassed in place, an roughed in an gel coat it an I should be ready to disassemble it an finish welding it up an send everything to powder coat.

 

[Brian]

That's interesting. Looks like the swapped the L and R rear upper A arms between your vintage and the current.

Mendeola transaxle? We're on the slow wait list.

 

[Dr. Bob Woods]

I used Lizzard Skin thermal coating on my radiator pipes and then covered them with a heat wrap. I don’t feel any heat.

Bob Woods
Tornado GT40 in Texas

 

[Mark Winton]

not insulated yet but my coolant tubes will be wrapped with same sleeve JP mentioned. I seperated, my coolant runs inside tunnel and brake&clutch out side in center console. I also put a Recirculator on clutch so fluid cools down..View attachment 127048View attachment 127049View attachment 127050

not insulated yet but my coolant tubes will be wrapped with same sleeve JP mentioned. I seperated, my coolant runs inside tunnel and brake&clutch out side in center console. I also put a Recirculator on clutch so fluid cools down..View attachment 127048View attachment 127049View attachment 127050

What Gear Shift Mechanism is that ? ... Looks good ... your comments - would you recommend ?

 

[Joe]

I

What Gear Shift Mechanism is that ? ... Looks good ... your comments - would you recommend ?

Im not sure who manufactures it. Chris at active performance supplied it with my car. Very nice piece all billet and functions awesome. Im still in build process so havent used driving yet but is hooked up and goes into every gear so smooth and not sloppy like others.
Joe

 

[Brian]

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Chris said it's a ricer part for either a Honda or Acura. I've been eyeing these 2 but haven't pulled the trigger. If needed, looks like they could easily be modded for more or less throw and even reversed.

Just install it backwards so the cables go to the rear.

 

[Brian]

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WOW, under $70. This has hit a price I can't say no to.

 

[Kyle]

Curious how this shifter compares to the one from RCR. The G96 isn’t the funnest to shift with an LS

 

[Brian]

All the shifter does is translates your H pattern into pushes and pulls on the cables. If the ratio is right (these are adjustable) and they're rigid and without a lot of play, they are what they are.
I'll report on my built thread when I have it, but I'm still waiting on 50 lbs of unicorn farts for them to finish my Mendeola.

 

[Mike Sundberg]

All the shifter does is translates your H pattern into pushes and pulls on the cables. If the ratio is right (these are adjustable) and they're rigid and without a lot of play, they are what they are.
I'll report on my built thread when I have it, but I'm still waiting on 50 lbs of unicorn farts for them to finish my Mendeola.

It took my dad close to year an 1/2 to finally get his Mendeola, he finally called an told them he was going to fly in an be at their door in a week lol he worked for American Airlines an flew for free lol

 

[Brian]

Glad to hear this. I can't say that I haven't had a few moments of wondering if this was going to be a Keith Craft Engines sort of thing.

I'm about to the point of making a mock up transaxle skeleton out of rebar from the spec drawings he gave me.

Looks great.

 

[Matt]

I

Im not sure who manufactures it. Chris at active performance supplied it with my car. Very nice piece all billet and functions awesome. Im still in build process so havent used driving yet but is hooked up and goes into every gear so smooth and not sloppy like others.
Joe

Indeed. I also have the same one with my AP build, and it is a high quality piece, IMO.

 

[Terry Oxandale]

I used SS for my coolant cockpit tubes, and then jet-hotted them to further reduce radiated heat into the cabin. Even then it required PSA insulation on the inner lining of the cover over the tubes to keep heat tolerable in the cockpit.