Active Power Cars GT40 Build...

Hi all,

I'm a newbie to the forum, and still finding my way around here, so apologies if I ask stupid questions. I purchased an Active Power/Ardern Cars GT40 roller from Chris over year ago and am fixing to restart the build process. My progress was delayed by an unplanned restoration of a classic Corvette that I have and I plan to have that completed sometime in Spring. After that, I'll be 100 percent back into this project, which I have given myself 1.5 years (from time of resumption) to complete. I've found some threads on the topic:



Chris (owner of AP) has been excellent with support thus far, but I'd also like to get other fellow AP owner's insight on their build process, and some guidance with mine as I have no prior experience with a ground up build out of replica.

Also, hoping to purchase a set of 'bundle of snakes' and various other parts, as needed, for my build (stroked 408 Windsor). I can purchase this through AP, but would rather buy from a user who bought them and ended up not needed them, as that should hopefully save me some moolah.

In a nutshell, I'd love to hear from AP owners out there, and would appreciate the guidance!

Thanks everyone!
 
There's Joe and me also posting pics of current ongoing projects.

Joe is a little bit ahead of me and Rick. We're waiting on Mendeola transaxles.
 
There's Joe and me also posting pics of current ongoing projects.

Joe is a little bit ahead of me and Rick. We're waiting on Mendeola transaxles.

Ah, cool. I'll follow your threads... The Mendeola has better gearing for sure. I'll be running G96/01 (which I already have) 6 speed in my build which Chris uses in his builds anyway. It's sholud be plenty strong in such a light car as long as I don't abuse it too much. The 3.81 first gear is horrible for an American V8, so I'm also hoping someone has an Albins 3.0 ring and pinion they'd be willing to sell to work a bit better with the setup.

Buying the R&P for the G96 from a vendor is rediculous - $2700 for a 3.0 ring and pinion is not something I can justify when the stock 3.44 isn't too bad. Just have to treat 1st as a parade gear, and just do 2nd gear launches.
 
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As Brian mentioned there are a few current AP build going now.agree Chris is a pleasure to deal with.will you be starting a build thread? I should be receiving my headers shortly from Chris Any day.I’m running the 997.2 transaxle
Joe
 
OK. A bit more information about my car:
Based on the John Wyer 1075 car with the 3" flares. This car is WIDE in the rear and I love it. Measured it at 79", which makes it wider than a Testarossa.

Some pics from Chris during the build process. Chris' communication was superb and he would send photos of the progress throughout the course of the build
 

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....more pics. I think the extra money for the flares and BRM wheels is absolutely worth it if you are planning to do the Gulf Livery scheme. The scheme doesn't look right without the wider flares and wheels, IMO. The rear pic gives you an idea as to how wide this car is. It's crazy wide back there. The body guy named this build phat @ss. LOL!
 

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I logged about 40 hours into this build before I had to change gears (no pun intended).

So far, I have mocked up the brake system, installed pedals, repainted calipers and CV shafts, mounted AC/heater box, fuse panel, drilled most of the holes in the dash for the gauges.

I purchased the base roller kit from Chris, which includes the builder kit (Class A Gelcoat finish, Single Nostril hood, L&R Doors, L&R Side Pods, Dash unit, Safety glass windshield, Poly side windows and headlight covers, Complete poweder coated Semi Monocoque frame, front and rear clamshells, DO .134 wall roll bar, aluminum skin pre fitted and fastened with side pods, firewall, and custom steering rack installed along with steering column with quick release hub installed)

And... Fuel tanks preinstalled, refurbed C5 suspension, coil over shock kit, shifter cables, BRM wheels [extra cost over the halibrands] and 245/45/17 and 345/40/17 tires.

On top of the above, I purchased the following from Chris:
Brake Kit, pedal assembly with master cylinders for clutch and brakes, adjustable bias installation kit inclides lines clamps, adapters and fittings
Cooling system - radiator and overflow tank and plumbing kit
Electric Wiper kit
14 circuit wiring harness
Lighting Kit
Flip Up gas cap kit
Kennedy engine to trans adapter kit for Windsor to G96 6 speed mating
Axle conversion kit
Air conditioner, heater, defroster kit
Mid engine accelerator pedal kit (Wilwood)
Parking brake kit

Purchased the Blueprint Engines 408 stroker BPF4088CT (no longer offered with internal balancing - been replaced by the 4089CT) dynoed at 479 HP/515 TQ
Purchased low mileage G96/01 transaxle

Also intended to purchase the carpet kit and seats from Chris, but they were unavailable at the time, so I sourced my seats from a superb outfit in the UK called Intatrim. Admittedly, at first I was a bit apprehensive about sourcing something like this from across the water, but Robin 'Rob' was excellent to work with, and I recommend the seats highly if you are looking for alternatives to color and design. He was very diligent in helping me find the right pattern for my seats due to the uniqueness of the design, which took a couple of months just to find the right tartan pattern and color for the leather seats, but well worth it. This is my opinion, and per usual, always do your due diligence and proper research.


Prices, communication, and service was superb (I am not affilaited with Intatrim, just a happy customer and my experience with them was excellent) - here is one of my seats (they are leather with custom tartan pattern I picked out). I'm going with a blue interior that will emulate the bright blue interior of the early C3 Corvettes (see example pic below). I know the 1075 car has black interior (and right hand steering), but I wanted to do something a bit different. Exterior, however, will emulate the 1075 car...
 

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I decided to run the clutch and brake lines inside the tunnel. I think it should be ok (I'll likely insulate the aluminum coolant tubes to keep the heat down in there. I noticed that most folks run them on top of the tunnel and around the e-brake, but wondering if anyone has tried my setup. Also, some add'l pics of what I've done attached...

Note, if making your own flares for the brake and clutch line, do spend the extra dollars and buy a proper flaring tool if you can. I bought the K Took 70081 which is a fairly expensive kit, but it has worked very well for me.
 

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Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Welcome to GT40s.com Matt! Congratulations on your AP purchase and build!!!
 
Thanks, Randy! Glad to be here.

Another cool pic of my build before taking delivery showing the passenger side fuel tank....
 

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Do the flares just allow for a deeper dish to the rear wheel? Chris is working on my non-flared MK1 now. Chris had me order 335's for the rear on a 18x12" wheel. I think I got the last pair of Toyo R888r's in the country!
 
I t
Do the flares just allow for a deeper dish to the rear wheel? Chris is working on my non-flared MK1 now. Chris had me order 335's for the rear on a 18x12" wheel. I think I got the last pair of Toyo R888r's in the country!

It really depends on the offset, the rim size, and profile, but generally, yes. 335's on a standard body car is crazy (305-315 in 17" is typically the norm), but Chris knows his stuff, so if he says 335's will work on a standard body car, then that's good enough for me. You may have to do some ride height adjustment, though.

I'm running Toyo Proxes TQ's which Chris ordered for me on my wide body when it was in build. My 345/40/17's are pushing it, and I will likely have to mess with ride height after I install the engine and G96. It's great now, but the motor and transaxle are not yet mounted, so that extra weight will make a difference (especially when briskly accelerating and cornering). Chris mentioned that I may have to raise the ride height a little as well. These are tall tires - 27.7".

Options for 17" wheels are very limited and getting more limited by the day, as it seems. Chris had a heck of a time getting my rear tire size in 17", but he managed it, and that was over a year ago. I feel for the 15" wheel guys. While historically accurate, the options are incredibly limited for modern-era tires in that size. You're basically getting vintage-tech tires. We've got it difficult enough with options in 17". I thought long and hard when Chris asked me if I wanted 15" or 17", and I settled on 17" because of the extra options, but even 17" is old news these days. Moving to 18" opens up worlds of options, but I just couldn't do it.

I am biased, but flares look absolutely awesome. The standard body is gorgeous too, but that extra width just looks amazing. These cars already make a statement, but wow, that extra width is worth it (along with orange BRMs), especially if you are doing the livery scheme.
 
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Kyle

Supporter
You have a width of the rear end? Curious how it compares to my SLC. Either one of these wide ass end GT40s or a Coupe 65 are going in the garage next. Would love to know the specs so I can see what room I have.
 
Measured it at 79" so it is W-I-D-E. Not sure what year your SLC is, but assuming a late model, it's way wider than the SLC. In my experience, I don't think many cars are wider in the rear, except maybe the Aventador and the Mclaren 720s (barely), to name a couple - the list is short.

The car is crazy wide, and looks sensational. If you like big butts, you'll love the wide body cars... Moreover, not many of them around, comparatively speaking - The standard body cars outnumber the wide bodies by a large margin. Standard body cars are gorgeous, don't get me wrong, but the wide body MK1 is my jam.

I never even had to think about whether I wanted the John Wyer flares or not. It was the first upgrade on my list when I placed my order with Chris, and I never looked back. I love it.
 
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I decided to run the clutch and brake lines inside the tunnel. I think it should be ok (I'll likely insulate the aluminum coolant tubes to keep the heat down in there. I noticed that most folks run them on top of the tunnel and around the e-brake, but wondering if anyone has tried my setup. Also, some add'l pics of what I've done attached...

Note, if making your own flares for the brake and clutch line, do spend the extra dollars and buy a proper flaring tool if you can. I bought the K Took 70081 which is a fairly expensive kit, but it has worked very well for me.

Hi Matt. I also have a wide body " Wyer flare" GT40 from Chris. I started my build late 2020 and 70% done. I ran my clutch and brake lines inside the tunnel like what you did. I can only insulate one coolant tube and brake/clutch lines due to space limitation inside the tunnel. Good luck with your build. Chris is an amazing guy. I am glad I bought his kit. Im already 2 years out and he still answers my questions super fast.
 
Hi Matt. I also have a wide body " Wyer flare" GT40 from Chris. I started my build late 2020 and 70% done. I ran my clutch and brake lines inside the tunnel like what you did. I can only insulate one coolant tube and brake/clutch lines due to space limitation inside the tunnel. Good luck with your build. Chris is an amazing guy. I am glad I bought his kit. Im already 2 years out and he still answers my questions super fast.

Thanks, Sammy. Yeah, it's pretty tight in there. I figured the water temp running through the coolant tubes would rarely get above 200 (and hopefully stay at around 185), so the ambient temperature should be less than that, and shouldn't affect the brake/clutch fluid in any adverse way. I haven't yet settled on the insulation media yet, but maybe fiberglass wrap (the same stuff you'd use on exhaust headers), or some sort of insulating spray.

What did you use to insulate one of the aluminum coolant tubes?
 
with the coolant tubes,brake line and clutch all in that lil tunnel there is going to be alot of heat added to brakes & clutch lines. I could be wrong just a thought lol. Coolant tubes are deff going to need some type of wrap on them
 
There is no harm in the brake fluid being 200 degrees. I wouldn't want the A/C low pressure line getting heated to 200 degrees ahead of the compressor.

I'll be insulating to not have the tunnel hot.
 
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