And so it begins...the AP build.

Yes, mine was close at delivery, but things changed as I started evening up wheel gaps, seams, etc. The front clam is rather flimsy and I think mine warped somewhat as it sat. Chris gives you a good starting point, but it's a very long road if you want to do things right...and I plan on mine being the best AP GT40 on the planet!) I consider selling mine every time I go out to the shop to work on it.
 
Getting back to that hourglass shape…1 cut at a time.
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So far, I’m happy how this wheel lip is going back together. I had a left section of 1708 that I had trimmed off of the new center section of the snorkel that I saved. It worked well to help establish the new wheel arch.
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I wanted to stiffen the corners of the front clam to make one-man latching easier. I did something similar to what Ford originally did. There will eventually be a closeout panel on the underside of the clam below the sides of the frunk. These will then tie back the the panels that were placed this weekend.
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Kyle

GT40s Sponsor
Joe how straight is the rear portion of your front clam where it meets the windshield curve? My clam meets fairly flush on each lateral end and then dives nearly 1in in the middle of the clam/windshield where that naca duct is so they don’t meet flush. Your clam looks fairly straight across which I assume is giving you a nice flush fit.
 
I think mine is workable. I plan on installing a Quick Latch on each side of the NACA duct in the center to help hold things down and set the height. I will also be cutting the clam edge along nearly its entire length to allow me to set the gap evenly at 3/16" with the lower windshield surround.
 
Joe how straight is the rear portion of your front clam where it meets the windshield curve? My clam meets fairly flush on each lateral end and then dives nearly 1in in the middle of the clam/windshield where that naca duct is so they don’t meet flush. Your clam looks fairly straight across which I assume is giving you a nice flush fit.
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Douglas

Lifetime Supporter
Joe how straight is the rear portion of your front clam where it meets the windshield curve? My clam meets fairly flush on each lateral end and then dives nearly 1in in the middle of the clam/windshield where that naca duct is so they don’t meet flush. Your clam looks fairly straight across which I assume is giving you a nice flush fit.
The front clam I got from AK has that exact droop in the middle and will require rework.
 
Only the corners of my spider are bolted down. I still have some adjustments to make before I know where its final set place is. Then I’ll finalize the clam-spider seam.
 
When you want to get your motor out, but it has an 8-stack and your regulator cherry picker attachment won’t work, you bust out the chop saw and welder and make one. The pipe is actually a down bar off of an original Shelby roll bar that is in my fast back. I had to make my own because of the mini tub.
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Decided to switch gears a little and start fitting the headlight covers. Chris ships the covers oversized with the shape started. I’ve been using a jigsaw to cut and a 60 grit roloc to fine tune the shape. These initial covers will probably be the templates for what will be installed after paint. This stuff is unforgiving. One cut off the line, or a slip of the grinder and it’s time to start over. I think I already have mine fitting as well or better than some of the $300K Superformance cars I’ve been looking at for reference. Legendary Motorcars has a few originals on their website that have good reference photos as well.
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Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Looking for symmetry on a GT40 - or really - most any racing car of the era - is like looking for Unicorns …
Remember that these cars were not designed on a computer, but by sketches and clay models.
 
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