'Best' way to route wiring to the rear

I need some new ideas for how to route wiring from the front to the rear of the car.

Currently I have it going along the sides of the car, but am running into some issues with my door higne and shocks there (namely it's hard to run it around them, lol). I may keep at it, but I'm curious if any of you guys have thought of any nifty ways to do it. I only see 3 possibilities

- ALong the sides, above brake lines/heat pipes/etc...
- Through the gas tank ( :/ )
- Through the interior and up/over a side beam to the back
 
Along the aluminum floor section inside the rocker panel area ..attached to the side of the lower chassis rail is good too...there is masses of space...the tunnel is six inches tall and six inches wide...

How are you running into the door hinge is about 12 inches above the floor at the lowest point??...never mind ...dont answer that, this is a simple question/answer and lets keep it that way....wink....I forgot you have the ISIS system too
 
I may (or may not *whistles innocently*) originally ran the wiring along the dash, down the side footbox panel and backwards, except where it turns and heads back is right in the path of the hinge. So since i have to move it I'm contemplating if there's a better/easier way to route it, or if I should just drag it lower along the outer side, just much lower.
 
Center tunnel seems the most direct route, especially given that the ISIS modules can be mounted under the dash for the cabin electronics, and on the rear bulkhead for the bay electronics...
 

Ron Earp

Admin
Wires to the rear of car? I thought ISIS was such a breakthrough in wiring technology that one hardly needed wires? :)
 
Wires to the rear of car? I thought ISIS was such a breakthrough in wiring technology that one hardly needed wires? :)

If it's implemented correctly there are few wires to be run. A master-cell is the "brain" which tells distant source-cells when, what and how long to feed a component, the source-cells can also tell the master-cell if there is no-load on a component (ie dead bulb, dead motor, etc) This requires one line to carry power from the master-cell to the source-cell, (power flows both ways) and wiring from source-cell to components. Of course, you still need to bring battery power to the master-cell.

It's more about distributed wiring, than a centralized, branching wiring system.

It can be very efficient, as long as the person implementing it can be too. :D
 
Wires to the rear of car? I thought ISIS was such a breakthrough in wiring technology that one hardly needed wires? :)

In extremely simplistic terms, you have one cell in the front. One cell in the back. You need to connect the two, which means you need to run a wire from the front to back of the car :p
 
Btw, for anybody who reads this at some point, you can easily run the wiring on the side - but don't do an Alex and decide on your "final" position for the harness before you've seen where the door hinge/strut will be located - otherwise you may end up placing it right where these components might strike it/rub it/just generally bump into it :lipsrsealed:

It's a special talent I have, honest :D
 
Alex, so far this layout has been pretty stout on the road. I did move the harness from under the oil pan to the back of that crossmember. it fit but was a litlle scary. but i'd rather have it there then running under the belts onthe front end. With solid motor mounts the oil pan doenst touque 1mm. all the tourque is xferred to you cranium! The yellow conduit is good to 800F by the headers/cats.
 

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Electric wires running through a gas tank make Alex very... leery ...... :/

Btw, what's the silverish cable running beside the wiring loom in the gas tank? DBW?
 
Cam, I like your state of the art jack stands.
Alex, I saw in some pics of a loom running on top of engine and back around the cross brace.
 
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