Chris's AK GT40 Build

[Jerry Irwin]

I'm not overly happy with some of the gaps between the (provided) panels, do you guys use seam sealer to tidy it up?

any pictures of the gaps you have issue with ?
I also fitted 302 with quaife .
engine ended up REALLY close to bulkhead....too close really...
got about an inch spare at rear between gearbox and rear clam when closed...
There was no way of fitting standard water pump... not an issue for me as I am using electric...

Drop me an email if have any questions..
Jerry

 

[Chris]

Hi Jerry, it's thing like this where you can guarantee that water or an annoying blast of air will come in, I've only tackled the front of the car so I presume I'll have similar issues to you on the rear, again I'm going to be using an electric water pump

 

[Jerry Irwin]

Hi Jerry, it's thing like this where you can guarantee that water or an annoying blast of air will come in, I've only tackled the front of the car so I presume I'll have similar issues to you on the rear, again I'm going to be using an electric water pump

View attachment 149847View attachment 149848

Yep, I had exactley the same gaps / issues....
I used white slicone squirted into gaps . seems to blend in well with the ally colour....
not the neatest but does the job

 

[Chris]

Yep, I had exactley the same gaps / issues....
I used white slicone squirted into gaps . seems to blend in well with the ally colour....
not the neatest but does the job

Thanks Jerry, i was thinking that silicone would do the job, although I might give silkaflex a go which I've used previously

 

[Douglas]

I'm not overly happy with some of the gaps between the (provided) panels, do you guys use seam sealer to tidy it up?

I was the same with what of the panels received and did not recreate.

I used this product from Summitracing, but I am in the USA and live 30 minutes from that store.

 

[RobP]

Thanks Jerry, i was thinking that silicone would do the job, although I might give silkaflex a go which I've used previously

I used clean silicone. I'm thinking, once the car is on the road, I'm likely to be caught in the rain sooner or later. I have tried to seal all the panel gaps accordingly. It'll probably get in somewhere but anything to reduce it will help. Silkaflex is a good idea.

 

[Chris]

Whilst I'm doing the panels I'm conscious of pipe routing, initially I though about running all the pipes through the center with the coolant hoses but was concerned about heat transfer ... however after seeing what Douglas is doing (albeit with a bigger center section), I think I'm going to do the same/similar, I'm thinking about using low expansion/high temp closed cell foam to give as much insulation as possible

 

[Douglas]

I also wrapped everything individually in insulation blankets that are used on aircraft water lines outside a pressurised area. I do not recommend if I took pictures of it that way though.

 

[Chris]

I also wrapped everything individually in insulation blankets that are used on aircraft water lines outside a pressurised area. I do not recommend if I took pictures of it that way though.

do you have any links to the product?

 

[Douglas]

I got it as left over materials from work.
I can see if I can find a part number.

 

[joe]

I used clean silicone. I'm thinking, once the car is on the road, I'm likely to be caught in the rain sooner or later. I have tried to seal all the panel gaps accordingly. It'll probably get in somewhere but anything to reduce it will help. Silkaflex is a good idea.

Don't get that stuff anywhere near your body panels, or fish eyes in your paint will be in your future.

 

[Douglas]

do you have any links to the product?

Sorry Chris, the material used is coded with the aircraft manufacturers part number that I looked up in our engineering database but it does not cross reference with the actual procurement part number.

But it is very dense, has aluminumized lagging on one side and a ridiculously strong adhesive backing on the other.

There are similar products online but clearly not as over kill like I used.

This is something I found sort of similar

 

[Chris]

Thanks for looking Douglas

 

[frank beuker]

https://www.ventilatieshop.com/media/ventilatieshop/downloads/a/r/armaflexace_productrange_en.pdf

Could this be something ?
Here we use this for venting channels

 

[Chris]

Paneling 1/3 done now (counting this down now so I can get onto the more interesting engineering parts!!!)

 

[Chris]

Another corner done

 

[Chris]

Also I've started on the EWP mount, being at the front gives lots of limitations for placement, ideally I wanted it to push straight down the center tunnel but there just wasn't enough space so unfortunately it needs to go through 90deg first. So I've designed this mount for it

 

[Chris]

So I wasn't overly happy with the EWP mount so I've redesigned it to moved it slightly further forward so that the radius to the rear of the car is less

 

[Steve Dean]

Hi Chris,
Well done for posting photos of your build. Have you acquired your 302 yet? The reason I ask is that there has recently been some crap with the IVA test whereby they will not accept an engine dating certificate. Talk to Jon at AK about this asap as he recently encountered this problem and subsequently got a car through IVA. He must therefore have dealt with the issue.
Crack on with your build ....... the clocking is ticking with only four years remaining before you will not be able to register it.
Also (sorry to be negative) there are rumblings about the UK adopting all European safety measures and this could have a massive impact on IVA requirements (i.e. Lane Assist, Parking Assist, etc, etc). So work your socks off to get the car ready for IVA as soon as possible.
This forum is a wonderful place with a wealth of information from knowledgeable people.
As a PS, I presume you know NOT to fit the side windows prior to the IVA or drill any holes to indicate windows will be fitted.
I'm in Norfolk ...... where are you?
Best regards,

 

[Mark Duquette]

So I wasn't overly happy with the EWP mount so I've redesigned it to moved it slightly further forward so that the radius to the rear of the car is less View attachment 150676View attachment 150677View attachment 150675

Hello, retired mechanical engineer and machinist of 45 years. The company I worked for built instrumentation for the measure and calibration of cameras and lamps for satellite systems. A lot of the systems we built were shipped all over the world. I was one of four engineers who refused to put 3D printed parts on my systems, I always used machined components or sheet metal. Especially if a company was paying 500k for a system. The other engineers always used them and they could never stand up to the vibrations and stresses of shipping. We used to joke that make sure you send an RMA with the system if it had 3D printed parts. 3D printing has its place but I would be wary of using it in critical systems in a car that is going to see lots of vibrations and bad roads. This part looks well designed and thick enough in all the right places, until it isn't. The machinist in me says use it for testing but then have it machined out of billet.