Chuck's Jaguar D Type Build

Since the Weber have no provision for dynamic vacuum (for ignition timing advance) the distributor has to be suitable for mechanical advance only.
Chuck do you know the static mechanical advance the engine builder used?
 

Chuck

Supporter
Barry:

I'm no expert on Mallory distributor. What I can tell you is the timing is set at 28^ advance at 3000 RPM and the Mallory uses a 'key' marked with the desired advance to set the adjustment plate. Without popping the top, don't know what springs were used to determine the advance curve.

When I wire the ignition for the initial start will be the time I sort out and research the wiring issues. Fun stuff.
 

Chuck

Supporter
Front Sub Frame, Part II

Four 1” Chromalloy tubes connect the front mounting plate to the four attachment brackets. Once the dimensions were confirmed plans were draw and patterns cut.


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The tubes were cut to length and then slotted. Slotting was done with a cordless grinder and a thin blade. The slots ended up being wider than 1/8” so adjustments could be made but the gap will disappear when final welding is done.

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The front lower tube had a half round hole cut to match the cross tube, which is the same detail found on the original. To accomplish this task a tube was cut long enough for both sides and then a hole saw and drill press used to cut the hole in the center after which the upper ends were trimmed to the exact total length.

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The pieces were temporarily set in place and tack welded on the car assuring everything was properly aligned. With a couple of tacks in place more tacks were added on the welding table. One needs to make sure that the pieces lie flat without any twist before welding.

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Once the sections were tack welded they were temporarily installed so the cross tube could be tacked in place. We were able to achieve a sufficient degree of precision such that the left and right sections could be switched left to right and fit perfectly on either side. Bolts 5/16” were used to connect them to the four brackets.

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Brackets for the radiator will be needed. The front extensions that will connect to the front clip hinge need to be made. There is a lot more to do before this project is done.
 
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Chuck

Supporter
Did you decide on an oil cooler?
Once I get the radiator set in place and confirm the space available oil cooler possibillities will be explored. My initial plan is to fabricate something that looks the part. I see no need for a functional oil cooler. Indeed it may be contraindicated for street use since it could delay the oil coming up to a proper operating temperature. But for now an oil cooler is still in the 'contemplation' stage.
 

Chuck

Supporter
For this project it is important that the appropriate tools be utilized. To assure a good fit between mating surfaces a special grater device was utilized. We gingerly smoothed the edges before further assembly.

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A special adhesive having the consistency of white frosting was used to secure the adjoining surfaces. Thereafter decorative materials were applied until the structure was complete. I was afraid it would get a D rating, but the family said otherwise.

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Chuck

Supporter
Front Sub Frame, Part III

Considerable time was spent exploring the placement of the radiator, since that will determine the location and manner of supporting it. The original radiator was mounted off center towards the passenger side leaving room for the oil cooler on the driver’s side. This complicates things because the two upper radiator tubes are centered on the radiator, as was the original. But the original engine was angled 8 degrees to the passenger side. To help analyze the situation we made a mock-up of the header tank to help locate these pieces.

We made a cardboard mock-up then put a quick layer of fiberglass on it to give it some rigidity followed by a coat of aluminum silver paint so it would look pretty. Note that the dimensions visible in this mock up are subject to revision.

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Using the mock-up tank we came up with an acceptable location for the radiator with space for the oil cooler on the side. (Our plan is to make nonfunctional oil cooler for aesthetic reasons only. There is no reason to make it functional)

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The two top radiator inlets are not centered on the mock-up header tank, but with the engine standing vertically rather than tilted eight degrees as on the original this is unavoidable and will hopefully be noticed by only the most knowledgeable D Type experts, of which there are few.

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To achieve the ‘look’ we also lowered the radiator about an inch from the location used by RCR. This will also help with clearance to the underside of the front clip. We wrote on the cardboard protecting the radiator the measurements of the ‘stock’ position as it came from RCR.

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Once the foregoing research was done, we had the information we needed so that the radiator support brackets could be designed and cut.
 
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Chuck

Supporter
Front Sub Frame, Part IV

Plans were drawn and templates cut for the two brackets that support the radiator. The radiator is biased to the passenger side leaving space for an oil cooler. These brackets will also provide lateral support to the sub frame.

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The pieces were cut and tack welded to test for fit.

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With the sub frame tack welded and its function confirmed, final welding and painting can be completed.
 

Chuck

Supporter
Front Sub Frame, Part V

Support for the radiator required that brackets be welded on both sides, cut from aluminum stock. This design has the advantage of being mounted on rubber spacer to minimize damage to the radiator from rigid mounting and it also permits some adjustability in all three planes. Indeed this is the same method used on the original. Dimensions are shown in the plans.
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Before welding on the new brackets the two straps used by RCR to support the radiator were carefully cut away.

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The three bracket section were welded together, then welded to the backing plate. The assembly was then welded to the radiator so that the bottom of the bracket was exactly 3 ¼” above the bottom of the radiator.

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Remaining to be done is priming and painting the front sub frame and final assembly.
 
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Chuck

Supporter
Front Sub Frame, Final Assembly

The frame was primed and painted. Eastwood Aluma Blast was a very close match to the powder coated frame.

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Once painted, assembly was completed using 5/16” hardware.

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For comparison sake, here is a picture of the RCR sub frame. Both serve the same function. The RCR frame has three parts; ours has nearly thirty. It was a lot of work to replicate the look of the original in a location that few will see. It did, however, teach me a valuable lesson: I need a mill.

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The radiator is supported with a pair of vibration dampening sandwich mounts, a half inch high. McMaster-Carr part number 9213K14. The top of the radiator sets 1 ½” below the level when delivered with the RCR sub frame. This will provide more clearance with the bonnet, a more authentic look, and a better location for the connections to the expansion tank.

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Now that the radiator is in place, the expansion tank needs to be designed and built and the coolant hoses sorted after which we will have a functional cooling system. What will be done with the space for the oil cooler has not been decided.
 
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