I don't believe there was a CPE check list. Just an engine in box, and recipt. Hot rod shop has done engine installs. Before this is a common practice for them.
Craft Performance engine knock
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So you still have no proof that they ever had dizzy out & or had actually checked/or set the ign timing, see what Im getting at? CPE dyno sheet says ign timing was 34deg, nobody wants to admit changing it or setting it @ 40deg.
I don't believe anyone changed timing. I'm just believing they didn't check it. Hot rod shop was paid to install the engine and get it running for me.
My 50cents as an engine builder.
You won't burn holes that easy in a forged piston.
40 total advance might be an issue on a 11:1cr engine but otherwise i am not sure about that causing a knock enough to burn a hole in a forged piston.
I run all my engines at 38 total advance @ 4000rpm. Cause an oldskool reputable engine builder told me so.
34 is a safe side setting.
A hole in a piston does not rattle, but it does smoke heavy. I drove my car 300km home with one.
A shot conrod bearing will rattle.
Hypereutectic pistons will rattle (until they warmed up).
That datasheet is probably what they sell with every engine in that configuration. They probably dynotested their first engine, and all the others get the same sheet. 14afr & max bhp don't match so I have my doubt here. Thats means with 12.5 afr you should atleast see 50bhp more.
1, do you have pictures of the damage or are you just guessing what the damage is.
2. What car are we talking about cause there's a difference in engine configuration front engined car & rear engined car in relation to piston clearance.
You won't burn holes that easy in a forged piston.
40 total advance might be an issue on a 11:1cr engine but otherwise i am not sure about that causing a knock enough to burn a hole in a forged piston.
I run all my engines at 38 total advance @ 4000rpm. Cause an oldskool reputable engine builder told me so.
34 is a safe side setting.
A hole in a piston does not rattle, but it does smoke heavy. I drove my car 300km home with one.
A shot conrod bearing will rattle.
Hypereutectic pistons will rattle (until they warmed up).
That datasheet is probably what they sell with every engine in that configuration. They probably dynotested their first engine, and all the others get the same sheet. 14afr & max bhp don't match so I have my doubt here. Thats means with 12.5 afr you should atleast see 50bhp more.
1, do you have pictures of the damage or are you just guessing what the damage is.
2. What car are we talking about cause there's a difference in engine configuration front engined car & rear engined car in relation to piston clearance.
If the third shop checked the timing and said it was 40 and engine only has140 miles isn't that enough to say the first shop who did the installation didn't check the timing. The installation shop installed a msd blaster ss and msd digital box. Car came with msd distributor, so I imagine the 3 somewhat connect to each other perhaps knocking off the timing.
YouTube video of the knock. Car is a mustang. Proof of damage is engine builder allowed a third shop to diagnose the engine. They took off oil pan and was able to see piston damage cylinder 1.
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That doesn't sound as a burned piston.
Driving with a burned piston will throw smoke screens you have never seen in your mirror. I know as I drove one home.
Driving with a burned piston will throw smoke screens you have never seen in your mirror. I know as I drove one home.
Bill Kearley
Supporter
To much advance can damage and or collapse a piston. Pull the pan and heads and get into it.
End of story
End of story
Alright, the coin fell, I am just discussing this with my wife (she realy knows her stuff).
34 degree total advance on a 10:1cr engine is a safe setting for low octane pump gas.
40 degrees aint an issue if you run higher octane.
We run 95 octane safe on a 10:1 with 38 total.
38 total linear to 4000 rpm.
Somebody did install the Holley Sniper, and that sombody had to program it.
Did that guy just filled in some parameters like weight of the car, auto or manual tranny, cubic inches, or........ did he do all the other stuff to like autorun to even out the VE tables etc.
34 degree total advance on a 10:1cr engine is a safe setting for low octane pump gas.
40 degrees aint an issue if you run higher octane.
We run 95 octane safe on a 10:1 with 38 total.
38 total linear to 4000 rpm.
Somebody did install the Holley Sniper, and that sombody had to program it.
Did that guy just filled in some parameters like weight of the car, auto or manual tranny, cubic inches, or........ did he do all the other stuff to like autorun to even out the VE tables etc.
No.
Take your loss, You aint going to win. You had bad luck with an engine. Just move on.
Welcome to our world.
Take your loss, You aint going to win. You had bad luck with an engine. Just move on.
Welcome to our world.
Ive already figured that how it would be. Just wanted to see who was at fault
Ron Earp
Admin
As someone who has wrestled with a few Holley Sniper installs I can for sure tell you that whoever installed the Sniper HAD to know what the ignition timing was to set that up properly with rotor phasing and so on. That is, if they got it right.
Are we sure these engines from KC are individually dynoed? IE, is that a canned dyno plot that is representative of the engine build but not actually your engine on a dyno?
I'm late to the party but with the other folks, you're pretty much hosed on this issue.
Not much to add but I feel for you. I went through a similar challenge 10 or so years ago due to my lack of knowledge. I didn't know who to trust, ended up with an expensive education. My way out was to get to a single person and have them accountable for repair.
I am sure this hurts, hopefully you can get the engine repaired and you can move on.
Kevin
I am sure this hurts, hopefully you can get the engine repaired and you can move on.
Kevin
I kinda feel there are two sides here. Some feel dyno tune would have burnt it up. Keeping in mind his dyno tune is what engine builder used to break in the engine. Then some say timing would have caused my knocking.
Back to the beginning I drove it out of the installation shop about 140miles without issues that I know of. Drove it hard one night then knocks next morning. So if dyno caused any damage wouldn't it have been right away.
Back to the beginning I drove it out of the installation shop about 140miles without issues that I know of. Drove it hard one night then knocks next morning. So if dyno caused any damage wouldn't it have been right away.
"Drove it hard one night then it knocks next morning"
Takes a while then truth comes out...eventually. I dont feel sorry for you, you have come on here, refused to even tell us what make of car, had folk from all over the planet try to diagnose whats going on & now you drop this bit of info on us.
Didn't think it make a difference what kind of car it is. Also driving car hard or easy shouldn't make a difference. It's a brand new performance engine. Pre broken in. A $11,000 engine should be able to handle few burnouts and highway speeds.
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