Electric Diagram

[Doug]

All,

Looking for some help on the electric layout. I've attached my schematic. If anyone has suggestions, comments, observations, etc, I am all ears.

It is not totally complete; gauges have inputs from sensors. I don't show the engine components (coil, EFI, plugs, wires, etc.).

I am a fan of relays - I may use mini switches on the dash for those. Line size is not an indication of wire size - it just got drawn that way :/

Please let me know what thoughts there are on fusing/switching/etc.

I have this in PPT if anyone wants it.

Thanks,

 

[Seymour Snerd]

Please let me know what thoughts there are on fusing/switching/etc.

I think you need more fuses, for example, I would have one for each headlight and fog filament. That way you can lose one without losing them all. Fuses are handy as diagnostic aids since they are a convenient way to isolate different parts of the system to help find out where current is going. They also make the system more resilient in that any given short takes out fewer loads.

I would have your cutoff switch include the fans and the alternator. The only thing cutoff need not control (IMO) is the starter itself. Cutting off the alternator means you need to provide it with a "temporary load" so it doesn't fry it's rectifier diodes while it's spinning down. There are cutoff switches that handle that (see Pegagus Racing, I think).

You show AC but no detail; don't know if you're saving that for later, but as you may know it gets complicated because you need to do things like force a radiator fan on to make sure the condensor is getting air, and you have various pressure and temp sensors to handle, etc.

I assume your going to come back later with sensors (eg oil pressure gauge and light, etc.)

Didn't see how you handled headlight flash button, but remember it has to do the right thing when the lights are off, and when they are already bright.

Yes relays are good. Grouping them close to their loads reduces the number of heavy wires you have to run around, but creates mounting headaches.

You might want to use a fancier flasher, esp. one that will tell you if a bulb is out.

Remember to fuse the heavy lines from battery to your fuse panel and fans.

FWIW attached is the wiring diagram for the Superformance GT40. Not holding it up as an ideal in any way, but it might help you remember things to handle. It's wrong in some areas, eg the ammeter should be between the battery and the loads. It also has some "backfeed" problems that typically arise when trying to feed a load from multiple sources and some unrelated item gets powered when it shouldn't.

View attachment GT40Wiring.pdf

 

[Troy]

I'm all for doing things myself, but when it comes to wiring, I couldn't go past the 14 circuit kit with remote mount micro fuse block from Painless Wiring. I got mine from Summit Racing, and was about $430.

Painless Performance 14-Circuit Remote Mount Micro Fuse Harness 10130 - SummitRacing.com

The best bit about their kits is that all of they are labelled along the entire length of each wire. By coincidence, there was an article in some US kit car magazine the same month I installed this kit, on how to correctly install the very same wiring harness.

I remember Dean Lampe's GT40 and another RCR Gulf car were featured in the same magazine.