Electric Water Pump How to.

[Brian Kissel]

I'm using this.

Billet Inline Thermostat Housing & Bypass Sensor Port Fits 1-1/2" Hose 1.5" -16 | eBay

UPR's Inline Thermostat Housing/Bypass Line Delete drilled incorporates a 1/2" NPT Port. You can install this housing in the upper or lower radiator hose. This makes removing the factory bypass or addingone a breeze.

www.ebay.com

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=784934320926828&id=100082308002972

My project is a little different, so I made a new section to fit my needs. You can see it in my dyno video from Prestige. I am using a Wilson 4 into 1 manifold into a 1.5" outlet. Then a 90degree hose to this modified UPR remote housing. I do not have the car yet, so I don't know what clearance I'll have to the firewall. If it's too long with the 90. I'll figure the proper angle and location, put a aluminum 90 in and weld them together. I did remove the thermostat so it could be regulated on the dyno.

Regards Brian

 

[Randy Folsom]

My plan is to use a Y fitting for the heater circuit gos’in and and a T fitting for the heater gos’out. The only reason for the T on the return connection is to minimize the length of the return hose.

Amazon.com: FPTYUE 1-1/4" x 5/8 32mm 16mm Y Way Car Heater Hose Coolant Water Flange Fitting Connector : Automotive

Buy FPTYUE 1-1/4" x 5/8 32mm 16mm Y Way Car Heater Hose Coolant Water Flange Fitting Connector: Radiator - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

https://a.co/d/hh9YrLn

 

[Brian Kissel]

I see that is 1-1/4”. X 5/8”. I’m not seeing a 1-1/2” X 5/8”. I found a 1-1/2” X 1”. However, I’m on my VERY old IPhone, and not all search options show up.

Thanks
Regards Brian

 

[Randy Folsom]

 

[Randy Folsom]

I see that is 1-1/4”. X 5/8”. I’m not seeing a 1-1/2” X 5/8”. I found a 1-1/2” X 1”. However, I’m on my VERY old IPhone, and not all search options show up.

Thanks
Regards Brian

My bad. Wasn’t paying attention

 

[Brian Kissel]

Thanks Randy. I finally found the link on Ebay. $39.99 each, or they offer a 2 pack for $59.99. Can't make out it out for sure, but it looks like it might be stainless.

Y Fitting Reducer 1 1/2" inch to 5/8 Heater Hose Line UTV Skid Steer Splice | eBay

Let's work together to make a great community, full of fabulous bargains & fun for all.".

www.ebay.com

They do offer 1-1/2" to 5/8" aluminum here.

1 1/2" TO 5/8 INCH ALUMINUM Y FITTING W/ SHUTOFF VALVE & HOSE CLAMPS UTV HEATER | eBay

Here are the y fittings that none of the heater manufactures include with their heaters. This fitting allows you to splice into your 3/4" radiator hose to run coolant to your heater with 5/8" heater hose.

www.ebay.com

Not sure why the Ebay link says "pardon our interruption", but the link does open to Ebay .

Regards Brian

 

[Paul Proefrock]

Brian,
Have you developed your plumbing diagram yet? My research has been leading me towards the thermostat in the front with the layout as developed by Randy V and Scott Swartz. Still learning cooling stuff as it is different on rear engine as opposed to front

The BMW unit shuts off the bypass when the stat opens. The one you show doesn't appear to which may change how the system is designed.

Paul

 

[Paul Proefrock]

Randy,
Do you know if the 'y' of the adapter sticks into the flow of the main line or does it just rely on suction as the fluid flows past the port. Do any of the pictures you found show the inside of the fitting?

Paul

 

[Howard Jones]

Paul. If you use a thermostat it needs to be located as close to the hottest coolant in the system as possible. That is in the top of the heads or in the adajacent ports of the intake manifold. The same place as the OEM thermostate is located. Any delay in coolant flow/ temp control due to increased diatance from the heat sorce to the thermostat will only serve to increase coolant temp in the heads/intake.
The engine will overheat long befor the thermostate opens . Promise. Thats not what you want.

BTW if you use an electric waterpump and assoiated electronic control then normally you will not use a thermostat. Not only would it be redundant but will interfer with the electronic control system.

 

[Brian Kissel]

As Howard states, my water temperature reading for my Holley Dominator ECU requires it be as close to the heads as possible. As far as the heater stuff, that will be up front. I have a 12 volt normally closed valve in that line. after that, I have a supercharger inter cooler pump, so I'm not really concerned with anything hanging down in my line to impede flow., All that stuff is in boxes somewhere and I haven't seen it in sometime. my health has not allowed me to do anything on this in nearly two years, That includes taking my brakes and mock up block with accessories to Fran to make sure everything will fit.

Regards Brian

 

[Paul Proefrock]

The more I dig into this, the more I realize I am making it more difficult than it really is. I plan to use a Pierburg electric water pump. If I want to run a thermostat, I can use one in the engine block - or I can run a gutted one and control temperature with my pump and ECU. The block fitting includes a bypass and I need to put a Y in the line in front of the Pierburg to accept that bypass flow.

Regarding the heaters, I found them online at InfernoHeaters for $18 each. 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 5/8. I've linked thru the name to their site.

I had worked up a schematic and have revised it to reflect these thoughts.

The only drawback I can see is that the heater system won't be very responsive until the system gets to temperature.

Open to any suggestions and comments.



ps: Thanks to Scott Swartz who I plagiarized the graphics for my layout and his excellent website information

 

[Randy Folsom]

Paul, Because I am using the TinyCWA controller for the Pierburg water pump, I am not planning to in use a thermostat or bypass hose. Hope this works

I am also planning to connect the expansion tank hose to the outlet side of the pump (between the manifold and the pump) rather than the inlet. Again, hope this works

 

[Paul Hendrickx]

The more I dig into this, the more I realize I am making it more difficult than it really is. I plan to use a Pierburg electric water pump. If I want to run a thermostat, I can use one in the engine block - or I can run a gutted one and control temperature with my pump and ECU. The block fitting includes a bypass and I need to put a Y in the line in front of the Pierburg to accept that bypass flow.

Regarding the heaters, I found them online at InfernoHeaters for $18 each. 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 5/8. I've linked thru the name to their site.

I had worked up a schematic and have revised it to reflect these thoughts.
View attachment 151601
The only drawback I can see is that the heater system won't be very responsive until the system gets to temperature.

Open to any suggestions and comments.



ps: Thanks to Scott Swartz who I plagiarized the graphics for my layout and his excellent website information

according to your design, how much "warm/hot " water sits in front of the thermostat, ad how much volume of "cold" water is in your pipes and radiator? thermostats opens close over long time before the whole circuit is at working température .if you put a 3way thermostat with by pass near de radiator you will increase the volume of warm water(liquid) against the cold water sitting in the radiator and reduce thermal shocks.

 

[Howard Jones]

Randy the expansion tank main feed needs to be connected at the LOWEST PRSSURE POINT IN THE SYSTEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is the inlet to the pump. Or what is the return cold water side from the radiator. Either OEM mechanical or electric. Your picture is correct, except move the port you have open in the bottom hose (pump output) going directly to the engine to the inlet side of the pump. Then you're golden.

 

[Randy Folsom]

Randy the expansion tank main feed needs to be connected at the LOWEST PRSSURE POINT IN THE SYSTEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is the inlet to the pump. Or what is the return cold water side from the radiator. Either OEM mechanical or electric. Your picture is correct, except move the port you have open in the bottom hose (pump output) going directly to the engine to the inlet side of the pump. Then you're golden.

Thank you I will move my T connection to the inlet side.

 

[Randy Folsom]

I am hoping this integrated expansion and overflow tank from Canton will fit on the bulkhead up high enough to be the highest point in the system.

80-203 2qt Aluminum Expansion Tank with Integrated 2qt Recovery Tank

Canton Racing Products 80-203 2 qt expansion tank with integrated 2 qt recovery tank. The tank is internally vented from expansion to recovery tank. Made from .100 in. Aluminum and is tig welded for stronger tolerances. Includes plastic caps for each side and has built in mounting brackets...

www.cantonracingproducts.com