GT40 measurements

I'm planning on making a new lightweight car trailer to replace the great big "tank" which i've been using.
My PRB (Lotus7 replica) weighs 464kg and is about 1650mm wide overall. I'm wondering weather to make the new trailer big/strong enough to take the RF40 (due in December) or if it might comprimise the compact design. Depending on dimensions, the RF may fit on the "tank", so i wouldn't need to comprimise.
Can someone help out with some dimensions: (prefer Roaring Forties)
Width: track
Wheelbase:
Front & Rear overhang:
I have a fair idea of height........ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[ChrisL]

I'm not in the position to measure at this exact point but I will be happy to do so if no one else does. One thing to keep in mind though is the height of the doors. The doors will need to swing wide open if you are to be able to get in and out so make sure that the trailer wheel-arches are not too high.

Something else to consider is that there is no obvious front point from which to tie a GT40 down. In the absence of any better ideas, an option would be to have a permanent chuck fitted (welded?) to the floor of the trailer and then tie the wheels/suspension to the chuck.

 

[Bill Bayard]

Chris,

Many enclosed car trailers come equipped with an "exit door"
for the very reason you stated. Typically, these are not over the wheelwells.
For towing/tiedown, add a couple of polished aluminum "eyes" in front, and one in back. I have these, and use S.S. locking rings(similar to a carabiner, but 2000lbs strength ea.) hooked to the eyes(w/rubber hose chafing gear), for chain/strap attachment points. I keep the rings in the car at all times, just in case. The front eyes are on each side of the radiator opening, the back is under the rear gearbox mount.
I'd be glad to post photos, if you'd like.

Bill

 

[Clayton]

Hi Tim
From the RF manual, Robert recommends a 14'x 6' minimum for the trailer. The body dimensions are 164.5"x 70".
hope this helps.

Clayton

 

[Ricky]

Tim,
For what it is worth I have emailed a drawing of the trailer I had made for my RF40 here in Perth. The end result was slightly different but this will give the basics. Feel free to use the drawing as you please.

Note
The ramps are quite long to avoid the nose bottoming out when loading or unloading and are stowed under the car when loaded and give a complete flat tray.
The trailer has no springs to keep it low for the above reason.
The side frames and all longitudinal members that span the axles at the deck level have been doubled to increase strength and limit point loadings.

The finished trailer weighed 700kg aprox and fully loaded tows very well behind my 2003 Holden Rodeo (3.5l petrol)

next year I plan to make up some removable St/Steel hoops to support a canvas to fully elclose the car when on the road to limit stone chip damage.

Regards,
Rick Virago.

 

[Tim Kay]

http://www.gt40s.com/ubbthreads/showflat...=true#Post37460

The above thread talk about this a little bit.

 

[BenL]

[ QUOTE ]
Something else to consider is that there is no obvious front point from which to tie a GT40 down. In the absence of any better ideas, an option would be to have a permanent chuck fitted (welded?) to the floor of the trailer and then tie the wheels/suspension to the chuck.

[/ QUOTE ]

When I got my trailer, it came with a set of tie-downs that loop around the tires. I like them because they work with nearly any car, I don't have to crawl under the car to attach them (like my father's old trailer), and I don't have to worry if the attachement points are safe.

These are similar to what I have: http://www.s-line.com/products/ms.asp
(click on "tire bonnets")

 

Thanks for all the responses guys.

Our "big" trailer is 4750L x 1800W with sides 225H. So if the doors are no less than 225mm from the ground at their lowest point, then it looks like i will get the GT40 on.

The trailer i have plans for will weigh in around 250 - 300kg. So not having to beef it up to suit the GT40 is good. I will just use it for the reace car.

Regarding tying-down. I always tie the WHEEL down with a strap around the perimeter of the tyre. This is a good, solid connection (unless you get a flat!) and does not put load on the shocks etc. The suspension is free to do it's own thing. And the tie-downs dont get pounded as the car bounces around.