How much $$
- Thread starter desertlord
- Start date
There are sooo many variables that it's hard to say without knowing what you want to use and how "accurate" of a car you desire.
Kit prices alone vary from car to car.
Then there's all of the choices like:
$2500 for a set of pin drive wheels,,,,
$1500 for a set of bolt on halibrand type,,,
or $800 for a set of torq thrusts.
$500 for a single four barrel induction sys,
$3500 for a weber set up,,,
$5000 for 8 barrel EFI.
$2k for a 320hp crate motor,,
$3k for a 350 hp crate motor,
$10k for a killer stroker motor,
etc etc.
These are just the tip of all the different costs. Alot of the smaller items like gauges, and even whether or not to use a moto lita steering wheel can make quite a difference in the total cost.
I'm hoping,,,,planning, that I can finish my project for around 50k.
My car will have bolt on halibrand type wheels, about a 360hp crate motor w/8 barrel injection,a reman Renault transaxle (so I can use inexpensive 10.5 inch ford clutch), I'm estimating about a 3,500-4k paint job, and a few other goodies.
It woun't be the "most" accurate replica,,, but it will be MY car and built exactly how I want it.
I consider the car I am going to build as a "decent" one. It will see about 40 percent road course (track use), and the rest of the time be driven on the street or in autocrosses. I'm not a "car show" guy, so I don't think I'll ever do many of those with it.
There are many who have $100k or more in their cars, and even more with 60-70 out there. It all depends on what you want and how "authentic or exotic" you want it to be.
Kit prices alone vary from car to car.
Then there's all of the choices like:
$2500 for a set of pin drive wheels,,,,
$1500 for a set of bolt on halibrand type,,,
or $800 for a set of torq thrusts.
$500 for a single four barrel induction sys,
$3500 for a weber set up,,,
$5000 for 8 barrel EFI.
$2k for a 320hp crate motor,,
$3k for a 350 hp crate motor,
$10k for a killer stroker motor,
etc etc.
These are just the tip of all the different costs. Alot of the smaller items like gauges, and even whether or not to use a moto lita steering wheel can make quite a difference in the total cost.
I'm hoping,,,,planning, that I can finish my project for around 50k.
My car will have bolt on halibrand type wheels, about a 360hp crate motor w/8 barrel injection,a reman Renault transaxle (so I can use inexpensive 10.5 inch ford clutch), I'm estimating about a 3,500-4k paint job, and a few other goodies.
It woun't be the "most" accurate replica,,, but it will be MY car and built exactly how I want it.
I consider the car I am going to build as a "decent" one. It will see about 40 percent road course (track use), and the rest of the time be driven on the street or in autocrosses. I'm not a "car show" guy, so I don't think I'll ever do many of those with it.
There are many who have $100k or more in their cars, and even more with 60-70 out there. It all depends on what you want and how "authentic or exotic" you want it to be.
Rick,
First and foremost, you must decide what your priority is. Authenticity? Performance? Cost? Fun factor? Take a look at all of the manufacturers and what they have to offer. You can find a links page on www.gt40club.clara.net. Also search this sight for kit comparison.
Here's a brief rundown with plusses and minusses (I wont get into performance, as that is a skies-the-limit option)
ERA: made in the US, extremely authentic, monocoque, extremely expensive (at least $85K, waiting list
Roaring Forties: Australian made, but based on some US parts. Relatively authentic, spaceframe, uses easily sourced Audi trans, relatively expensive (probably $55K, now have a US dealer.
CAV: turnkey-minus only, now in monocoque, relatively authentic, relatively expensive ($65K?)
GT40 Replication: New Zealand made, spaceframe, relatively authentic, probably best bang-for-your-buck, but no instruction manual and you must source approximately 30% of the parts yourself. Uses Willwood brakes, which are easily sourced, but a Renault trans (scarce in US). Must ship from NZ and deal with customs. Has a good reputation, but rumor has it that the prices have just gone up (Alain, is this right? How much?)
KVA: UK made, first of the GT replicas, spaceframe, donor parts are UK based (not readily available in US), no manual, kits were extremely basic (body, frame, and some suspension). A second-hand KVA could be bought cheap, but you have to enjoy being a treasure hunter and plan on a multi-year build. Most have steering geometry issues. Fire up your welder and plasma cutter!
GTD, Sabre, Tornado: similar to KVA, but much more refined. Sold as complete or basic kits, most parts are readily available (but some only from UK), have manuals and some factory support, cost is in the middle, but suspension and brake mods seem to be recommended( additional $$$)
GT Supercars: still in prototype stage, but looks very authentic. US made, parts easily sourced, owner John Hester seems to put customer service high on his list of priorities. Cost should be in line with RF and CAV.
ASSP: Fiero rebody, probably least expensive, but looks like a caricature of a GT40, low performance
Scratch builts: Cheapest route on paper, but will ALWAYS cost more than anticipated. Cost and authenticity obviously vary, as do build times. This is the route I'm taking, hope to be painted and driving for around $30k
Complete cars: Best deal may be a completed GTD from the UK. Don't forget dealing with shipping and customs. Most of us on the forum want the pleasure of saying "I built it," but that sometimes costs more in the long run. And don't forget about all of those busted knuckles!
I know I left some out, and wasn't explicit in my descriptions, everyone please forgive me!!! It's just a rough guide to get you started. Good luck, Max.
First and foremost, you must decide what your priority is. Authenticity? Performance? Cost? Fun factor? Take a look at all of the manufacturers and what they have to offer. You can find a links page on www.gt40club.clara.net. Also search this sight for kit comparison.
Here's a brief rundown with plusses and minusses (I wont get into performance, as that is a skies-the-limit option)
ERA: made in the US, extremely authentic, monocoque, extremely expensive (at least $85K, waiting list
Roaring Forties: Australian made, but based on some US parts. Relatively authentic, spaceframe, uses easily sourced Audi trans, relatively expensive (probably $55K, now have a US dealer.
CAV: turnkey-minus only, now in monocoque, relatively authentic, relatively expensive ($65K?)
GT40 Replication: New Zealand made, spaceframe, relatively authentic, probably best bang-for-your-buck, but no instruction manual and you must source approximately 30% of the parts yourself. Uses Willwood brakes, which are easily sourced, but a Renault trans (scarce in US). Must ship from NZ and deal with customs. Has a good reputation, but rumor has it that the prices have just gone up (Alain, is this right? How much?)
KVA: UK made, first of the GT replicas, spaceframe, donor parts are UK based (not readily available in US), no manual, kits were extremely basic (body, frame, and some suspension). A second-hand KVA could be bought cheap, but you have to enjoy being a treasure hunter and plan on a multi-year build. Most have steering geometry issues. Fire up your welder and plasma cutter!
GTD, Sabre, Tornado: similar to KVA, but much more refined. Sold as complete or basic kits, most parts are readily available (but some only from UK), have manuals and some factory support, cost is in the middle, but suspension and brake mods seem to be recommended( additional $$$)
GT Supercars: still in prototype stage, but looks very authentic. US made, parts easily sourced, owner John Hester seems to put customer service high on his list of priorities. Cost should be in line with RF and CAV.
ASSP: Fiero rebody, probably least expensive, but looks like a caricature of a GT40, low performance
Scratch builts: Cheapest route on paper, but will ALWAYS cost more than anticipated. Cost and authenticity obviously vary, as do build times. This is the route I'm taking, hope to be painted and driving for around $30k
Complete cars: Best deal may be a completed GTD from the UK. Don't forget dealing with shipping and customs. Most of us on the forum want the pleasure of saying "I built it," but that sometimes costs more in the long run. And don't forget about all of those busted knuckles!
I know I left some out, and wasn't explicit in my descriptions, everyone please forgive me!!! It's just a rough guide to get you started. Good luck, Max.
Yes, it is true that the NZ kit prices (some of the components anyways) have gone up.
I was lucky that Phil is willing to share/split some of the costs with me, as he needs to update the pricelist on his web site.
The differences are not too great. The aluminum cladding increased due to the front end being re-engineered for floor mounted pedals and a "cleaner" look.
Also he is using a different supplier for the fuel tanks,who consistently does a nicer job with them, therefore they cost a little more.
It is still a great kit for the money, and I am very excited about starting on it.
My 50k "estimate" in my earlier post is probably a little high. I won't know until I have the actual importing and paint job paid for, but I'd rather plan on doing it right under 50 & actually finishing it for 45k than vice-versa.
MY biggest concern at this point, is that my shipping may cost more than previously expected or even be delayed, due to the recent strike here on the west coast.
The biggest drawback to importing a kit from overseas, is that you can easily spend 10 percent of what the finished car will cost on freight and importing fees.
Of course,if you can find two buyers who will ship their kits in the same container, you can cut the freight costs in half!
I was lucky that Phil is willing to share/split some of the costs with me, as he needs to update the pricelist on his web site.
The differences are not too great. The aluminum cladding increased due to the front end being re-engineered for floor mounted pedals and a "cleaner" look.
Also he is using a different supplier for the fuel tanks,who consistently does a nicer job with them, therefore they cost a little more.
It is still a great kit for the money, and I am very excited about starting on it.
My 50k "estimate" in my earlier post is probably a little high. I won't know until I have the actual importing and paint job paid for, but I'd rather plan on doing it right under 50 & actually finishing it for 45k than vice-versa.
MY biggest concern at this point, is that my shipping may cost more than previously expected or even be delayed, due to the recent strike here on the west coast.
The biggest drawback to importing a kit from overseas, is that you can easily spend 10 percent of what the finished car will cost on freight and importing fees.
Of course,if you can find two buyers who will ship their kits in the same container, you can cut the freight costs in half!
Rick
If you are willing to live with right hand drive, you can probably get a good deal on a used car out of the UK. Many more kits/cars
over there. We've seen prices for done cars
many times in the mid-$ 30k range.
The motor/trans would have to be shipped
seperately, but that's not a big deal.
One issue you should be aware is that "older"
replicas tend to have the original "sideways"
pedal positioning. Most (but not all) newer kits created more foot room. And watch out
for head room if you are over 6 ft.
Best bet is to sit in the one you like.
Good luck.
MikeDD
If you are willing to live with right hand drive, you can probably get a good deal on a used car out of the UK. Many more kits/cars
over there. We've seen prices for done cars
many times in the mid-$ 30k range.
The motor/trans would have to be shipped
seperately, but that's not a big deal.
One issue you should be aware is that "older"
replicas tend to have the original "sideways"
pedal positioning. Most (but not all) newer kits created more foot room. And watch out
for head room if you are over 6 ft.
Best bet is to sit in the one you like.
Good luck.
MikeDD
Wow, thanks for all the replies.
My biggest concern is cost and fun factor. I've never much cared for authenticity. I like the style and performance of the GT-40. I couldn't care less if it is exact.
I was thinking I might be able to build a Diablo kit for $20-$25K spread out over 2 years. I figure if I could build a good GT-40 for the same I should go that route but it kinda sounds like that would be a real stretch.
Thanks again.
My biggest concern is cost and fun factor. I've never much cared for authenticity. I like the style and performance of the GT-40. I couldn't care less if it is exact.
I was thinking I might be able to build a Diablo kit for $20-$25K spread out over 2 years. I figure if I could build a good GT-40 for the same I should go that route but it kinda sounds like that would be a real stretch.
Thanks again.
Desertlord
I am in the middle of preparing an article on just what your delima is. It will be posted as a FAQ in the near future. But to your immediate problem. If you look on the GT40 Enthusiast web site for instance, you will see several cars for sale. Most are or will be KVA's and an occasional GTB. KVA being one of the earliest kits out there. They required much outsourcing to complete, not to mention the modifications that were needed just to finish.( they also have some good articles on building a KVA ). The price of the cars is probably resonable. If you decide to go that route, you should negotiate the price to NOT include the engine and maybe not even the transmission. Some Audi units can be found in the recycling yards for 150$ or so. To ship one over to the U.S., it is better to not include the engine ( according to one of the bigger importers )or to ship it seperately, unless you ship it as a racecar. Customs can get kind of tricky. Then you have a car in almost the price range you want. The car would probably need going over anyway,( the car would probably need dismantling as some of these cars are as old as ten years or so ) and that would give you time to save some money for the completion. If this seems the way you might want to go, email me and I can give you some helpful hints about how to accomplish your task.
Bill
I am in the middle of preparing an article on just what your delima is. It will be posted as a FAQ in the near future. But to your immediate problem. If you look on the GT40 Enthusiast web site for instance, you will see several cars for sale. Most are or will be KVA's and an occasional GTB. KVA being one of the earliest kits out there. They required much outsourcing to complete, not to mention the modifications that were needed just to finish.( they also have some good articles on building a KVA ). The price of the cars is probably resonable. If you decide to go that route, you should negotiate the price to NOT include the engine and maybe not even the transmission. Some Audi units can be found in the recycling yards for 150$ or so. To ship one over to the U.S., it is better to not include the engine ( according to one of the bigger importers )or to ship it seperately, unless you ship it as a racecar. Customs can get kind of tricky. Then you have a car in almost the price range you want. The car would probably need going over anyway,( the car would probably need dismantling as some of these cars are as old as ten years or so ) and that would give you time to save some money for the completion. If this seems the way you might want to go, email me and I can give you some helpful hints about how to accomplish your task.
Bill
