Interior Carpet
- Thread starter RWoerz
- Start date
I spent many hours debating with myself on which side to do. In the end I thought it would be easier to hide and look much better if I did the inside although it will be much harder to do. It just wouldn’t look right on the engine side. Because I didn’t want to change the “look” of the large access panel I have figured out a way of doing its engine side but have worked out a way of hiding it.
I did find something interesting, the window between you and the engine is about 1/16” thick. I plan on making a ½” or so Lexan replacement. It should work in the existing frame so I’m asking if anyone would be interested in one. The number of orders I get will determine the price.
As hard as I tried to save it the old carpet is not reusable.
I did find something interesting, the window between you and the engine is about 1/16” thick. I plan on making a ½” or so Lexan replacement. It should work in the existing frame so I’m asking if anyone would be interested in one. The number of orders I get will determine the price.
As hard as I tried to save it the old carpet is not reusable.
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This might be a good time to explain something. Many of you are hard core racers or want nothing to do with making one of these cars more steerable. I have from the start wanted a car I can put many street miles on. Do I want to open track the car you bet but my experience level will never warrant a 500 + HP, 2200 lbs car. In fact the car will be so much faster than my GT350 that I’m sure I’ll be able to get myself into more trouble than I can handle. Even at 400HP the car will have more power than the cars Ford ran at Le Mans in the early days.
I have read that many of you can’t drive your car in the rain without it filling with water. Hopefully with the help of many of you and my poking around I will be able to plug enough holes to drive it any day I want.
I still need a source for the carpet. Thanks.
I have read that many of you can’t drive your car in the rain without it filling with water. Hopefully with the help of many of you and my poking around I will be able to plug enough holes to drive it any day I want.
I still need a source for the carpet. Thanks.
im with you. im making my car as streetable as it can be without losing its character. we were going to dynamat the engine side, but you bring up a good point abt the looks. however you wont see much dynamat exposed on the engine side because, well, the engine is in the way but i know what youre saying.
we are literally going over every nut and bolt on this car and preparing it so its done right the first time, and it is built with the idea that we want it to be easily maintenanced in the future.
btw, i believe olthoff sells a thicker "glass" or someone on the board does. i know ive seen them.
a good way to look for cracks that water can get in is to hoist the car up on a lift or jacks, then turn the lights out. with someone inside the car, have someone else crawl around underneath it with a worklamp. when the guy inside sees a chink of light, there is your gap.
not sure how to seal up the vent that is in the roof though...
btw...unless you plug up the service holes at the bottom of the firewall, u can dynamat all u want and itll do no good. the cabin will create a vaccuum thatll suck the engine heat right through.
thats where the bulk of the interior heat will be coming from.
the holes that the hoses and such are running through, u need to plug and insulate them as best you can.
thats where the bulk of the interior heat will be coming from.
the holes that the hoses and such are running through, u need to plug and insulate them as best you can.
Have you tried contacting Superformance for the carpet? Or possibly Olthoff? I'd like to see some photos of your progress if possible! Sounds like a worthy project.:thumbsup:
RW,
You need to call Dennis Olthoff (704-647-9924). He just finished doing what you are doing in my car. I make a material that we supply to CAT worldwide for sound control. Used in conjunction with soundproof charester foam (won't flame up when a flame is held up to it) that is coated whith a UB material that stops oil/water from penetrating. But this is too heavy for our use. Dynamat makes several good products to help with heat/sound control. Dennis sould be able to help with the carpet also.
I also had Dennis remove and install the thicker rear window. It does seal up much better (Heat infiltration and sound reduction). It is machined to fit flush with the seal. Maybe 5/16" thick or so.
We also do extrusions and I am going to try to improve on the door seals. I'm thinking a round profile as opposed to the two overlapping flaps of rubber.
I'm in the same boat as to car use track vs street. I love to go to VIR and run the cars hard. I also remember the wave of water in the floorboard of my MKIII before I fixed those sources of water. This car will be done the same way...it just takes time. I don't mind getting wet some, but wet dash electrics and gages are a great concern.
I know this car is more a race car than a street car and there are compromises, but that 427FE does produce a lot of heat on the backside.
Hope this helps
Grady-Asheville, NC
You need to call Dennis Olthoff (704-647-9924). He just finished doing what you are doing in my car. I make a material that we supply to CAT worldwide for sound control. Used in conjunction with soundproof charester foam (won't flame up when a flame is held up to it) that is coated whith a UB material that stops oil/water from penetrating. But this is too heavy for our use. Dynamat makes several good products to help with heat/sound control. Dennis sould be able to help with the carpet also.
I also had Dennis remove and install the thicker rear window. It does seal up much better (Heat infiltration and sound reduction). It is machined to fit flush with the seal. Maybe 5/16" thick or so.
We also do extrusions and I am going to try to improve on the door seals. I'm thinking a round profile as opposed to the two overlapping flaps of rubber.
I'm in the same boat as to car use track vs street. I love to go to VIR and run the cars hard. I also remember the wave of water in the floorboard of my MKIII before I fixed those sources of water. This car will be done the same way...it just takes time. I don't mind getting wet some, but wet dash electrics and gages are a great concern.
I know this car is more a race car than a street car and there are compromises, but that 427FE does produce a lot of heat on the backside.
Hope this helps
Grady-Asheville, NC
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A good source for the rear bulkhead glass is your friendly glass replacement store. All you need is a template. The auto glass people should be able to supply an edging for the glass or you can find something that will work well at McMaster Carr. I have one piece already for the interior side of the opening and I plan to make a wooden template of the opening for a second piece for added insulation. I wouuld just put it on the engine side except I have nice stainless on that side. May do it anyway. The inside piece is going to be removable for any cleaning that might be necessary. If you didn't rip the carpet that was removed, try some fabric adhesive in one of the spray cans. It works real good. They used that exclusively on the original street cars.
Bill
Bill
plugging all theholes in the front of the chassis will help with water intrusion, however, 90 percent of it comes in through the front of the doors as it runs off the cowl down the door hinge area. This is very difficult to fix in an SPF car due to the door shape. good luck
I was talking with Dennis this AM and ask about the rear glass. It is in stock at Olthoff and 3/4" thick, not the 5/16" I earlier reported. Carpet is only in SA. Just thinking, Aircraft Spruce Co sells carpet approved for aircraft. Pricey but doesn't flame up if you think along those lines.
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
I need some matching carpet so I ordered all the grey samples I could find from Auto Carpet for Car, Truck, Van - Stock Interiors to see which one came closest to the carpet in P2160. Below are pictures of the samples lying on my passenger carpet. The first picture is taken in the late afternoon shadow, and the second with the flash turned on.
The two samples with label Txxx are called "Truvette" and apparently correspond to carpets used in Corvettes from the late 90s. They are different from the other four in that their fibers are less shiny and in that sense match the fibers of the Superformance carpet. The other samples sparkle in a way that I find cheap looking, although from a distance it might just slightly lighten the colors. This effect is more obvious in the first picture.
Truvette is $59 per 72" wide yard at http://qualitycarinterior.com/view-by-product-yardage.html.
Also, BTW camera is on autoexposure so everything is lighter than it would appear by eye.
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