Jeffs RCR GT40 MK1 Build

Waiting for some Raptor coating supplies, so was test fitting my exhaust, RCR snakes to 302/347, noted the same issue others have had, i.e., the head flange prevents spark plug removal. So I confirmed I can use the inner of the two mounting holes, this would allow me to machine off the mounting ear on the flange which prevents spark plug removal. I don't want to remove exhaust to change plugs. What does the collective think?
I would think you will be ok. When GP Headers was asking me about my order, they asked if I would be using the narrow, or wide bolt spacing. I will be using the wide, as that is the spacing on the Felpro gasket that Prestige recommended...and my heads are drilled for 3" spacing.
 
Jeff - SPF header flanges are similar. I ground out the offending flange to ensure removal. That said, some of the pipes require you to come down from above to access the bolts. I used the small-head ARPs like you are - worked perfectly.

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Finished the tub today, sanded with 80 grit on a d/a sander, cleaned, primed with upol acid etch 8, then top coat with Raptor. Used a roller, worked very well, finish is very smooth with a texture to it.
 

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Randy Folsom

Supporter
What do you folks think of these motor mounts?
Thanks for any input
Jeff,

Couple of considerations
  • After market blocks such as Dart have are beefier than Ford blocks with additional webbing near the mounts. A engine mount like that will need to be notched or the web ground back.
  • That mount has a bushing, which is fine if the transaxle is also mounted with bushings, unfortunately many transaxle mounting systems are solid. An engine that moves connected to a transaxle that doesn’t is not ideal.
  • The single bolt will need some steel doublers on the tub to distribute the stress. Better if you can use the tub mounts provided by RCR. That engine side of that mount might fit nicely into the RCR mount.
I made my own solid mounts. Note the short pieces of DOM on top of the mounting flange to provide webbing clearance.

 
Jeff,

Couple of considerations
  • After market blocks such as Dart have are beefier than Ford blocks with additional webbing near the mounts. A engine mount like that will need to be notched or the web ground back.
  • That mount has a bushing, which is fine if the transaxle is also mounted with bushings, unfortunately many transaxle mounting systems are solid. An engine that moves connected to a transaxle that doesn’t is not ideal.
  • The single bolt will need some steel doublers on the tub to distribute the stress. Better if you can use the tub mounts provided by RCR. That engine side of that mount might fit nicely into the RCR mount.
I made my own solid mounts. Note the short pieces of DOM on top of the mounting flange to provide webbing clearance.

Randy,
Thanks for the input.
I have a ford sbf, so it should mount to the motor fine.
I had planned to use the RCR tub mount with this motor mount.
Any additonal thoughts yes or no?
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
Randy,
Thanks for the input.
I have a ford sbf, so it should mount to the motor fine.
I had planned to use the RCR tub mount with this motor mount.
Any additonal thoughts yes or no?
If there are web or drain plug clearance issues consider adding 1/2” tall spacers between the engine block and the top of the motor mounts rather than notching the motor mounts or grinding back the webs.
 
Tanks installed, hopefully for the final time!!
 

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