Father and son RCR GT40 Mk ll Build

Waiting on our RCR Mk ll Deluxe Plus Kit.Ordered on 4/6/23 and playing the waiting game. Fran told me 7 months ETA from order date but I am a mechanical contractor and parts are hard to get for my business so I am guessing it's gonna be more like a year to a year and a half.We went with 15' halibrands ,G96 gearbox,adjustable pedal slider,door boxes,302 headers,door eyebrows,hartwell latches,boy it adds up fast$.I think we are gonna go with a aluminum small block and build engine in garage.My son is 11 and he likes rare cars(he loves my 1998 H1 Hummer and working on it)so I think we are gonna youtube the build and c how it all goes.Any input would b awsome and very helpful! I have restored a Jeep CJ7 and a 76 Bronco but this is my first complete build. Son wants to do a Ken Miles #98 replica at this point but his mind could change.Wish us luck!
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
I ordered mine in May. It is a good that it has not arrived yet, I am still in the process of converting my wood shop into a car shop. Yes, stuff adds up. I have already spent almost $100K on kit and kit options, engine, transaxle, clutch package, and tires. I don't even want think about how much more will be needed. If after pricing all the parts and time to build a 302, you decide to buy a crate motor, Prestige Motor works is great to work with and they only have about a six to eight week lead time. If you are considering getting Avon Tires, be aware, they will stop production at the end of November. If the deal to take them over works out, production won't resume for about six months. If you have not already, take a look at Chuck and Ryan's Build Log. There is a lot of really good information and it very well written with lots of pictures. Hope you have as much fun as I plan to have. Working on it with your son will be great.

Cheers, Randy
 
So making my list on things that are not included with my kit and trying to decide on engine options.I want a small block 289/302 as im sure gonna b plenty of power and dont want to b hard on taxle.Heard good things about Prestige from many members.I have built a couple 302 engines in the past and thinking about another build.Would like to go alum block and heads with stacks.Whats ur take on mechanical vs injection?I would like to keep car simple as possible so build doesn't string out(been down that road).Also whats ur take on undercoating Y/N.I used lizard skin on interior of a bronco i did and it turned out pretty good as a heat and sound barrier.How much time do u guys spend on the body gap fitting?I am not really that worried about perfect,seen several old 70's race cars and when u get up close the gaps didnt seem to b a concern back then.This is my first glass car so its gonna b a experience.Has anyone ever wrapped a glass car?
Thanks Again
Ben
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
Ben, I made a list of items not included in the deluxe+ kit and posted it in my build log here. It is by no means verified since I have not started my build because, like you, I am still waiting for delivery. I based it on reviews of Chuck's and Tom's build logs, and chats with forum members.
Cheers, Randy
 
Thanks for the list,I never though of back up camera but its on my list now.Any recommendations on getting body work done before I get started or save that part to the end.Also any recommendations on types of roll garage lifts that are easily adjusted in height.I have a garage full of tools already,any specialty tools I may need ? I am 5 months in since my order and I really dont expect it for awhile,I figure once second payment is asked for I will be getting closer.What do you guys recommend on getting engine build started.I had thought about waiting until my car arrived but really dont know.Could b another 6 to 12 months ,you just never know these days.In the meantime any other prep work I may need please let me kmow.
Thanks
Ben and Trevor
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
I have not received mine yet, so everything I post is conjecture. That being said, Fran recommended to follow Tom’s process for the body alignment. Tom did it right after the suspension set up. I am going to try that and also try to cure the panels soon after fitting them. My half baked plan (pun intended) is to spray the body with black glide coat and then put it out in the sun for a few days. I also want plumb the front clip nancelles and side ducts, foam the spider, etc. so that subsequent components don’t get in the way.

For a lift I plan to use my Harbor Freight motorcycle lift with a few modifications until I install the engine and it gets too heavy, then I will use some sort dolly so I can move the car around in the shop. I was thinking about using tire dollie’s, but those would get in the way of working on the suspension. If you want something to build while you wait for you car, consider Sean’s lift: (https://www.gt40s.com/threads/seans-rcr-gt40-build.54594/post-556212) BTW, Sean’s build log is an excellent resource.

Long lead time components can be ordered so they are on hand when the car arrives, but you have to make a lot of decisions because those components are also the most expensive. If you know how you will drive the car, and you know your budget, then those decisions start to become self evident. My build log lists the drive train components I am using and why. It will be a year before I know if I made the right choices. Fingers crossed.
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Be very careful with that Harbor Freight motorcycle lift. I was using one on my RCR-40 build. It worked fine until I installed the G50 transaxle and dummy block. The weight was then too far aft and had to move the lift further aft. It was on the safety locks while working on it. Then I needed to lower it to move it in the shop - The seals promptly blew out of the ram and it took me days to figure out how to get it down. I replaced the ram and sold the lift to a motorcycle mechanic. I built a solid platform for the car that was not as convenient as the lift - but much more robust and I could safely get my 225# body up in the car too..
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
Be very careful with that Harbor Freight motorcycle lift. I was using one on my RCR-40 build. It worked fine until I installed the G50 transaxle and dummy block. The weight was then too far aft and had to move the lift further aft. It was on the safety locks while working on it. Then I needed to lower it to move it in the shop - The seals promptly blew out of the ram and it took me days to figure out how to get it down. I replaced the ram and sold the lift to a motorcycle mechanic. I built a solid platform for the car that was not as convenient as the lift - but much more robust and I could safely get my 225# body up in the car too..
Randy, thanks for sharing your experience. Yes, I only plan to use the HF lift for the initial suspension set up and body panel fitting when I would like the car to be a few feet off the ground. After that I will build a dolly like you described. I will make it strong enough to support a completed build. If I need a bit more height on the dolly, I can add some blocks near the corners. Eventually, I may get a four post lift because that will allow me to stack cars in my garage. I already have my eye on the next build :) Cheers, Randy
 

Devin

Supporter
Randy, thanks for sharing your experience. Yes, I only plan to use the HF lift for the initial suspension set up and body panel fitting when I would like the car to be a few feet off the ground. After that I will build a dolly like you described. I will make it strong enough to support a completed build. If I need a bit more height on the dolly, I can add some blocks near the corners. Eventually, I may get a four post lift because that will allow me to stack cars in my garage. I already have my eye on the next build :) Cheers, Randy

Once you have a lift (either 2 or 4 post), you will have a whole new batch of “friends” that want to use it and you will ask yourself why you didn’t get one before and to never work on a car without one
 
Still in the waiting period on our car.Thinking may be quite awhile longer.Do you guys recommend going ahead and getting engine ordered and in garage?I hate to order a engine and push it around my garage for who knows how long.I am thinking Prestige or Shelby Engine Co. small block.Shelby is more $ but a weight saving aluminum block.What does everyone think?If aluminum block really doesnt make that much difference I can use that money on paint! I ordered the deluxe kit so im not sure of any other parts I can order till the car gets here.. ,several members have given us a great list.I am looking for a roll around hydraulic lift if anyone has info on that.I had to quite reading all the build logs it was too much for my old brain to process at one time,very informative but a lot of member knowledge packed in here ! Thanks Again, Ben
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Frankly - unless you’re racing it or really have to have bragging rights, the weight savings of the alloy block is not worth the extra money… Save that money for other things.
You may want to wait on ordering until you get the car and get a feel for how long it’s really going to take you to build it.
Speedway motors and others have dummy blocks and heads you can use for fitment of headers and accessories..
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
I agree with Randy V. I bought my engine from prestige in August and likely won’t receive the kit until January. In the meantime I have make space and occasionally rotate the crank and fog the cylinders. Prestige delivered my engine in about six weeks. It depends on what engine you opt for. If built on a seasoned (used) block it should be delivered relatively quickly. If you opt for something more exotic it may take longer.
 
Engine will be going on a G96 gearbox from RCR so I dont think we are going with super high HP.I think 350 to 400 HP should be plenty for crusing the Florida Panhandle.Dont plan on any racing in the future as I am getting l4 and l5 fused on Feb.Hopefully car will be here after I heal up!
 

Sean S.

Supporter
I agree with Randy V. I bought my engine from prestige in August and likely won’t receive the kit until January. In the meantime I have make space and occasionally rotate the crank and fog the cylinders. Prestige delivered my engine in about six weeks. It depends on what engine you opt for. If built on a seasoned (used) block it should be delivered relatively quickly. If you opt for something more exotic it may take longer.
If you can find it in small amounts in your area, Cortec VpCL 322 is excellent to preserve the engine oil with. I was lucky and got a quart of it, looks like most places sell it in 5 or 55 gallon QTYS only. And its expensive... You only need ~10% of it to oil, it gives off a vapor that attaches to the metal to stop corrosion. Its used as a long term preservative. They say you can run the engine with it in it, but I never tried.

I used it to preserve my engine as it sat about a year and a half before firing it up in the car. I shot a little in each cylinder with a syringe and added a bit to the oil and turned it over several times to distribute it.
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
If you can find it in small amounts in your area, Cortec VpCL 322 is excellent to preserve the engine oil with. I was lucky and got a quart of it, looks like most places sell it in 5 or 55 gallon QTYS only. And its expensive... You only need ~10% of it to oil, it gives off a vapor that attaches to the metal to stop corrosion. Its used as a long term preservative. They say you can run the engine with it in it, but I never tried.

I used it to preserve my engine as it sat about a year and a half before firing it up in the car. I shot a little in each cylinder with a syringe and added a bit to the oil and turned it over several times to distribute it.

Thx for the info. For long term storage I think Cortec VpCL 322 is probably the way to go, especially if the engine is not in a climate controlled environment. Cortec VpCL 369 aerosol can is available from the rust store for $25 plus $10 for shipping.

I called Prestige and asked which fogger to use and they said just spray in a little WD40 because it displaces water. The main concern is not rust as much as it is that some of the valve springs are likely fully compressed and that is not good for long periods of time.
 

Sean S.

Supporter
Thx for the info. For long term storage I think Cortec VpCL 322 is probably the way to go, especially if the engine is not in a climate controlled environment. Cortec VpCL 369 aerosol can is available from the rust store for $25 plus $10 for shipping.

I called Prestige and asked which fogger to use and they said just spray in a little WD40 because it displaces water. The main concern is not rust as much as it is that some of the valve springs are likely fully compressed and that is not good for long periods of time.
I would suggest taking the rocker arms off as they are correct about that. Sorry didn’t mention that’s the other thing I did for storage.
 
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