Jim's ERA build

Chuck

Supporter
Bill, thank you for your observations. I believe the previous photos presents an optical illusion that the fuel line is closer to the pipe then it is. There is at least 1 inch between the line and pipe. Two other factors which will help reduce the fuel boiling are the headers are ceramic coated and the fuel system is a circulating system. At a later date if there seems to be a problem I will probably wrap the pipe or the fuel line.

Regarding the pictures attached to the foregoing post . . .

Given your fastidious attention to detail and outstanding workmanship, I doubt this is even an issue, but will that upward turned header pipe bump up against the inside of the fiberglass clip? Looks close to me.

Exceptional build.
 
Chuck, thanks for your question. Everything seems to be close in these cars. There is very little extra room anywhere. How we mitigate the problems is the fun part of the build. Two things control the heat factor. Number one is the ceramic coating on the pipes. Secondly is the heat shield that is above the pipe. Between the aluminum shield and the fiberglass there is 1 inch of insulation material. The fiberglass does not even get warm. Enclosed are a couple of pictures of the heat shield. On one I pulled away a piece of the trim so you could see the installation.
 

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Dave Lindemann

Lifetime Supporter
Jim - Beautiful build! Is all of the ducting a standard part of the kit? The underside of the rear clam is a work of art.

Dave L
 

Chuck

Supporter
Chuck, thanks for your question. Everything seems to be close in these cars. There is very little extra room anywhere. How we mitigate the problems is the fun part of the build. Two things control the heat factor. Number one is the ceramic coating on the pipes. Secondly is the heat shield that is above the pipe. Between the aluminum shield and the fiberglass there is 1 inch of insulation material. The fiberglass does not even get warm. Enclosed are a couple of pictures of the heat shield. On one I pulled away a piece of the trim so you could see the installation.

Excellent. I figured you would have a good solution.

I used a similar approach, albeit a bit less elaborate. The highest header is about a half inch from the fiberglass on mine.

You may want to consider adding exhaust fans to keep air moving through the engine compartment at all times, including slow speed and for several minutes after shut down. That was one of the best upgrades added to my RCR, detailed on my blog.
 
Jim, How is the heat shield secured to the underside of the rear clip? Can you detail this for me please. Like Chuck's car my tolerance for the top header pipe is wafer thin when the rear clip is in the closed position. Thanks.
 
Jim Holden, I sent you a PM last week asking where I could see/find additional pictures of your stunning car. Not sure you received it or not. Its currently my screen saver. Very Very Nice!
 
Sorry Fearsom for the thread drift I guess to many Jim's! but I am I'm still interested in how you secured the heat protection to under the rear clip if you have the time please.
 
There are several brackets made like a C that are glassed to the body and a nut rivit on the top. This is the only photo I have of this. You can see where the aluminum shield screws into the nut rivit.
 

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Well I have finished this project and ready for a new adventure. Enclosed are couple photos of the GT 40. I'm going to be taking some better photos next week and will be placing it on the market. My previous car was a 427 Cobra and Since my wife has had two back fusions it is difficult her for a ride in either of these cars. Therefore I am going back to simple and non-vibrating. I am looking for a 1959 Porsche convertible D or a 1960 Porsche roadster. If anyone knows of one of these cars I would be inclined to work out a trade. This is really a great car and second to none in the cool factor. Anyone cane-mail me at [email protected]
 

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