Joe’s AP MK1 Gt40 build

That is the way my Borla is setup and I installed a fuel pressure gauge on the entry point as you can see on the picture.
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Let me shed some light.

With high pressure EFI setups, the regulator returns excess fuel from the rail to the tank via the regulator. It dribbles out enough fuel to keep the pressure at the set point of the regulator.

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It's also OK to loop one rail into the other and supply one and return fuel through the reg through the second. But the end goal is fuel is always flowing past the injectors, and they can inject what's commanded, and the excess is passed on down the line to the regulator and back to the tank.

Later model OEM systems "dead head" into the rails with the regulator upstream, and some even modulate the pump rather than bypass, but the fool proof ideal is as drawn above.
 
brake System finally complete,had to get different fittings for the wilwood calipers for the flex lines. Made aluminum side panels to Mount computer,mid,battery etc for a nice clean look. Nothing on bulk head. Don’t mind wires,still on bird nest status lol
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Up to the fun part, where it all ties in .who dont like some spaghetti .before i pulled dash back out I use the blue tape just as a reference so i know where to bring the individual harnesses out.
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What Wilwoods did you go with for brakes and do you need to run spacers to clear the E-T wheels? I’m considering Aerolites, but looks like Vintage Wheels will probably be a no-go due to caliper clearance.
 
What Wilwoods did you go with for brakes and do you need to run spacers to clear the E-T wheels? I’m considering Aerolites, but looks like Vintage Wheels will probably be a no-go due to caliper clearance.
3/4 hubcentric adapters in front,1/4 spacer rear.
SLC56-front calipers
DPC56-rear calipers
 
I was about to ask where you were putting your fuse panel then thought I would look back in the thread first.

My, you are a glutton for punishment.
 
I was about to ask where you were putting your fuse panel then thought I would look back in the thread first.

My, you are a glutton for punishment.
Im making a removable panel in the top aluminum cover for access to fuse block&relays. Will be water tight. I wanted as far out of way as possible to allow more room for heat/defrost&ac ductwork etc
 
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That sounds too sensible. Will the spider give you adequate access? I was thinking about putting it on the front of that panel with a water replant plexy cover. OEM's put the bigger half of their fuses under the hood.

Thanks. Glad to have you blazing the path ahead of me. When I built my Cobra, I had 2 guys who were 1 year and 18 months ahead of me. It helped because if I asked a question, it was still somewhat fresh in their mind. One guy who was finished sent me a thumb drive with hundreds of pics he took along the way.

I'll be putting the ECU behind the seat or maybe beside the door. One universal complaint with the megasquirt is the case and connectors are not water tight. But at the same time, it's easier to link the computer to when driving.
 
the section in red will be permanently mounted for spider.the section in blue will be removable for full access to fusebox,relays etc. going to put a seal around the removable panel that when it’s mounted seal compresses for watertight fit. thats though with comp,really limits you.can even mount in footwell and do same type of removable cover,it opens up a lot more real estate to mount compondnts out of the way and hidden.
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