Ken's SLC build thread

Ken Roberts

Supporter
I installed the BMW M3 steering position sensor on the XLR steering intermediate shaft. The brackets I made are modular so they can be removed/installed in stages and for adjustability. I can shim them if needed to get a precise fit. I over built them because they are located directly below the driver side inspection hole. Removing and installing the steering column in the future could possibly knock it out of position as well.

The Tilton 75 series of master cylinders, as supplied with the kit, should not be installed on ABS equipped cars. The pulses from the ABS will destroy the seals inside the master cylinder. Tilton has just released a new version 79 series for ABS equipped cars but it has a different mounting pattern. I ordered AP Racing master cylinders CP9093. They have the correct mounting bolt pattern and the correct centre valve configuration needed for a ABS brake system. Unfortunately each one is 4 times the price…..ugh

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Ken Roberts

Supporter
Here is a picture of the intermediate steering shaft removed from the car. The white plastic steering angle sensor retainer gets installed permanently on the shaft. To help aid in keeping it centred I wrapped aluminum duct tape around the shaft until I had a friction fit. The retainer has male splines on the inner hole which bite into the aluminum foil as it’s slid over it. I lubed it up with Goop adhesive as well. Now the sensor slides onto the shaft and snaps onto the retainer.

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Ken Roberts

Supporter
To make it easier for myself I made a couple of wood stands for the steering column. The short one supports the steering column just below the studs. The tall one then jams the column up in place so I can then install the washers and nuts.

I used a carbide “F” drill to dimple the splines on the intermediate shaft for the set screw. I took a picture to document the safety part of the build for the upcoming inspection.
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Ken Roberts

Supporter
I’m about to replace all the brake lines due to converting to the BMW M3 ABS system. Each caliper has it’s own individual brake line. Should I also upgrade the clutch line to 1/4”? I’m using a Ricardo transaxle. I read the recent posts about the preferred line for the GT40 clutch line is 1/4”. All comments welcome.:)
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
Like others before me I decided to address the extra work required to remove the front struts at the upper mount location. My solution was to fabricate a 1/2” thick nut plate with studs. It gets held in place with 1/4” pan head bolts from the outside.
I can see the need to replace the bearings at each end of the QA1s occasionally so making the removal/install a one man job was important. If I was to do it again I would only use one 1/4” fastener per nut plate.

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Ken Roberts

Supporter
Back on the build after a long absence. I finally mounted my aero tube mirrors. The second picture shows the steel backing plate for the mirrors inside the door cavity. The second larger vertical steel plate is for the door hinge.

I built a second identical pair of mirrors (with inner door brackets) if anybody is interested in a set.
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Ken Roberts

Supporter
I fabricated and mounted a pair of brackets to the spider for the front hood hinge strut mount. Second picture is showing the matching steel backing plate on the underside.

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Ken Roberts

Supporter
Here are a couple of pictures of the door hinges mounted to the backside of the spider. The large black steel plate really helps to spread the load on that area. Especially when the door is open. It’s all done to help retain the alignment of the door over the years. The gas strut is mounted to a secondary bracket due to the fact the original upper gas strut mounting point would interfere with the rubber guide wheel with the door in the raised position.

I show how to make the reinforcement plate on page 51 post #1010.

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Ken Roberts

Supporter
These pictures shows the inner door bear claw backing plate. This plate has 2 functions. One is to reinforce the area where the bolts fasten the bear claw into position and secondly to act as a guide for the door lock rod that must slide back and forth.

Starting with the left picture.

The first picture shows the finished brackets before the holes were drilled in them. The holes were drilled for better shear strength when epoxied in place.

The second picture shows a piece of the guide rod that slides back and forth (for the door lock function).

The third picture shows a transfer punch that is slid in the upper tube. This is used to accurately mark/punch the striker location once the door is held in it’s desired “closed” position.

The forth picture shows the plate bonded in place.
 

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Ken Roberts

Supporter
I made my own set of front hood hinges based off pictures I saw of the other styles builders came up with. I had to make mine stronger due to the fact I’m required to have some kind of front crash bar to pass inspection in my Province. Mine will not have any holes cut in the main plates.Thsee plates will also be used for the external crash bar mounts.
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Ken Roberts

Supporter
My design uses a polished stainless 7/16” ARP bolt for the hinge. It uses a replaceable pressed in bushing on the swivelling section. One bronze washer is located on either side of the swivelling section to control side loading.
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Ken Roberts

Supporter
Here are a few pictures from my build log that others may find useful.

Bill Phillips was the first to come up with the locking external Miata door handle modification. Cam has a video of its operation on his build log. I used the same design on my build. The first picture shows my design. The second picture shows the swivelling spring post I found from McMaster Carr.

The third and forth pictures are the very last pictures I took of the door hinges before installing them. Adding the rollers to the assembly will help to eliminate the possible grinding sound as the door swings up and down. Replacing the helm joint with a couple of bearings also makes it track straighter.

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Ken Roberts

Supporter
Work continues on the LS9 engine/ Graziano transaxle test stand build. I’m almost finished the 4 gallon fuel tank that holds twin pumps from a CTS-V. The pumps are PWM controlled from a CTS-V fuel pump controller. Those same type of components will be installed in the future GT-R fuel tank if I ever place my order.

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Ken Roberts

Supporter
Are 2lb residual brake valves really needed with our cars even when the reservoirs are generally mounted slightly higher than the brake calipers? I know the general consensus is if the master cylinders are lower than the calipers then it becomes necessary but isn’t that assuming the master cylinders have reservoirs mounted directly on top. I just don’t see how the fluid can drain back away from the caliper if the reservoir is mounted above the height of the caliper.

Are residual valves still installed in modern cars with ABS brakes? I ‘m wondering if it will be problematic in my build since I have installed a BMW ABS/DSC system.

Any thoughts on this matter are most welcome.
 
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Neil

Supporter
Are 2lb residual brake valves really needed with our cars even when the reservoirs are generally mounted slightly higher than the brake calipers? I know the general consensus is if the master cylinders are lower than the calipers then it becomes necessary but isn’t that assuming the master cylinders have reservoirs mounted directly on top. I just don’t see how the fluid can drain back away from the caliper if the reservoir is mounted above the level of the caliper.

Are residual valves still installed in modern cars with ABS brakes? I ‘m wondering if it will be problematic in my build since I have installed a BMW ABS/DSC system.

Any thoughts on this matter are most welcome.
A 2 lb residual pressure valve keeps a slight hydraulic pressure on the brake seals and reduces leakage.
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
I made a set off driving lights/brackets and trim rings for a GT-R. The goal was to replicate the look of the original car. The nose on the car is lacking a bit of style so these help jazz it up a bit. The trim ring mounts from the front of the bucket and the bracket/light mounts to the rear. I have enough material to make up a couple more sets if anyone else is interested. The original lights were Cibie. These brackets are for Hella HL68142 which is very similar.

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