The two lower mounts are interfering just slightly with the lower crossmember on the trans/bellhousing. These mounts aren’t used (as far as I see). Do they get cut off or shaved down? Just the DS is slightly hitting and stopping me from lowering the trans the extra .5-1” that I need.
Lower mounts hitting lower crossmember?
- Thread starter Pmccooey
- Start date
Rod Dittmar
Supporter
I had the same issue and cut both of them off.
Thanks!
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Should be used. Presumably a Safair bell housing?
If not the weight of transmission is hanging on the top mounts only and torque from the engine causes a huge twisting force and movement lifting the left hand side of the engine and if / when the engine mount gives way all this is taken on the top lugs.
They put them there for a reason……perhaps the engine tranny combo is too far back /forward causing the interference
Ian
If not the weight of transmission is hanging on the top mounts only and torque from the engine causes a huge twisting force and movement lifting the left hand side of the engine and if / when the engine mount gives way all this is taken on the top lugs.
They put them there for a reason……perhaps the engine tranny combo is too far back /forward causing the interference
Ian
Yes it’s a Safir bell housing. I don’t think I even saw any where in the lower crossmember where they could bolt to??? I’ll have to look again this afternoon when I get home but I didn’t see anything on the RCR where it could bolt to.
Lee Patterson
Supporter
Those SAFIR bellhousing mounts attach to the lower crossmember. Do NOT cut them off for goodness sake. The crossmember should be drilled and a bolt run through it. The bellhousing is made identically to the original which has those bushings and the tub (just like the SPF tub) has threaded inserts that are already there to accept them. It appears like your motor is too far back and thus hitting the cross member. That is a critical measurement dimension. Alternatively, take the bellhousing off, press out the bushings and machine the face down to clearance.
Leaving them off just means your motor will be flopping around hung only from the top and defeats the entire purpose of the Safir bellhousing.
Leaving them off just means your motor will be flopping around hung only from the top and defeats the entire purpose of the Safir bellhousing.
The RCR frame is not provisioned for those bellhousing mount locations.
Lee Patterson
Supporter
I would drill a set of holes and make it be.
I was able to loosen the engine mount and the lower braces cleared. This is where the lower mounts line up when the top mounts are set for the upper bolts. Either something is way off with the upper crossmember or the RCR wasn’t designed to use the bottom mounts on a Safir bell housing. I called RCR for clarification and left a message. Hopefully I’ll hear back from someone. I could run bolts through those lower mounts in into an aluminum sleeve which i could weld onto the lower crossmember for more stability if needed.
Attachments
Lee Patterson
Supporter
That's too bad the tub is so low back there. I thought it was thicker allowing you to drill through it. Agreed you could weld a tube across the space and bolt to it.
Howard Jones
Supporter
1. Cut em off, mount the power train otherwise and be done with it. Not my first choice. You ruin the value of the bell housing. Those Safir parts are sought after pieces.
2. Modify the horse collar as suggested above and use them to mount the PT. This will require a skilled welder and capable equipment. If you have those sorted then that's not a bad idea. I would specify a robust bung. Nice and wide to spread the load and at least with a 3/8 inch wall thickness around the through bolt hole. Maybe even add an additional 1/4 inch thick, full width and, 3 inch long strap on the bottom side. Nice and strong!
3. IF you have clearance in the front of the engine then move it forward, make new motor mounts to suit and mount it from the top ears. I suggest you use solid mounts at both engine mounts and at the ears. There are many cars mounted this way and I don't know if this has been a problem. Especially in street cars driven like street cars. Leave the bell housing unmolested. I like the idea of placing the PT as far forward as possible.
4. Sell the Safir bell housing and acquire a different bell housing that does not have theses lower ears.
I like 3 and 4, biased towards 3 because I like to make things. However 4 might be a faster resolution.
2. Modify the horse collar as suggested above and use them to mount the PT. This will require a skilled welder and capable equipment. If you have those sorted then that's not a bad idea. I would specify a robust bung. Nice and wide to spread the load and at least with a 3/8 inch wall thickness around the through bolt hole. Maybe even add an additional 1/4 inch thick, full width and, 3 inch long strap on the bottom side. Nice and strong!
3. IF you have clearance in the front of the engine then move it forward, make new motor mounts to suit and mount it from the top ears. I suggest you use solid mounts at both engine mounts and at the ears. There are many cars mounted this way and I don't know if this has been a problem. Especially in street cars driven like street cars. Leave the bell housing unmolested. I like the idea of placing the PT as far forward as possible.
4. Sell the Safir bell housing and acquire a different bell housing that does not have theses lower ears.
I like 3 and 4, biased towards 3 because I like to make things. However 4 might be a faster resolution.
Last edited:
Rod Dittmar
Supporter
1. I totally respect & value everyone's opinion, and have gleaned tons of info during my build from guys on the forum.
2. My car is a street car and will never see a race track while it's in my possession. I paid $ for the Safir Bellhousing that came with their sbf clutch kit and that bellhousing is now part of the car.
3. I'm by no means an expert on some of this stuff, but I cut those ears off when I built the car based on what some others had offered up on one of these forums. An easy fix and, if there are other bellhousings out there that don't have those ears, then maybe they're not necessary.
4. Lots of other cars (production, race, drag, muscle, etc.) have two engine mounts, numerous bolts attaching the bellhousing to the block, more bolts attaching the trans to the bellhousing and then some type of 'trans' mount to a rear x-mbr. That configuration has been around for ages and seems to work OK. I just didn't feel the need for another set of attachments at that point.
5. Bottom line is, it's your car. Weigh all the different responses your going to get and go with the one you are comfortable with.
6. And lastly, at 80 years old, I'm having a blast driving my car and frankly, have other things to worry about.
2. My car is a street car and will never see a race track while it's in my possession. I paid $ for the Safir Bellhousing that came with their sbf clutch kit and that bellhousing is now part of the car.
3. I'm by no means an expert on some of this stuff, but I cut those ears off when I built the car based on what some others had offered up on one of these forums. An easy fix and, if there are other bellhousings out there that don't have those ears, then maybe they're not necessary.
4. Lots of other cars (production, race, drag, muscle, etc.) have two engine mounts, numerous bolts attaching the bellhousing to the block, more bolts attaching the trans to the bellhousing and then some type of 'trans' mount to a rear x-mbr. That configuration has been around for ages and seems to work OK. I just didn't feel the need for another set of attachments at that point.
5. Bottom line is, it's your car. Weigh all the different responses your going to get and go with the one you are comfortable with.
6. And lastly, at 80 years old, I'm having a blast driving my car and frankly, have other things to worry about.
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Hey I speak from experience and failure
So my car was a DAX and I ran a 3.9l Rover based engine, which was rather highly strung having been extensively worked on by John Eales of touring car fame. The transmission was Renault…..no LSD. Dyno said 256 hm and slightly higher torque.
The configuration used was two engine mounts and two mounting points similar to the upper mounts /ears on a ZF.
So 4 points of chassis contact for the engine and transaxle.
It was a mainly road car but did a couple of track sessions and I had it at Santa Pod…the U.K. 1/4 mile drag strip.
The lights turned green and I dumped the clutch…..the left side engine mount rubber/urethane parted company from the steel section, and the engine twisted and lifted probably about 3 inches. With my throttle cable routing this then caught on the rear clip and jammed the throttle at WOT. Something I would never like to happen again!
Speak with Jim Craik….he has a superformance …. earlier car but lots of road miles and his bell housing did not have these bolts . His chassis started collapsing and he had it redone double thickness material etc.
Moral…if I was doing another car I would have the additional mounting installed.
Ian
So my car was a DAX and I ran a 3.9l Rover based engine, which was rather highly strung having been extensively worked on by John Eales of touring car fame. The transmission was Renault…..no LSD. Dyno said 256 hm and slightly higher torque.
The configuration used was two engine mounts and two mounting points similar to the upper mounts /ears on a ZF.
So 4 points of chassis contact for the engine and transaxle.
It was a mainly road car but did a couple of track sessions and I had it at Santa Pod…the U.K. 1/4 mile drag strip.
The lights turned green and I dumped the clutch…..the left side engine mount rubber/urethane parted company from the steel section, and the engine twisted and lifted probably about 3 inches. With my throttle cable routing this then caught on the rear clip and jammed the throttle at WOT. Something I would never like to happen again!
Speak with Jim Craik….he has a superformance …. earlier car but lots of road miles and his bell housing did not have these bolts . His chassis started collapsing and he had it redone double thickness material etc.
Moral…if I was doing another car I would have the additional mounting installed.
Ian
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Pat
Please also add your exhaust headers and try fitment as they may in turn snag on the upper portion of the “horseshoe”
These cars really are a juggling act to get all parts to line up and still have clearance where needed
Ian
Please also add your exhaust headers and try fitment as they may in turn snag on the upper portion of the “horseshoe”
These cars really are a juggling act to get all parts to line up and still have clearance where needed
Ian
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