Making own Suspnesion bolts - material?

I hope I explain this correctly...

With a ot of the bolts I can get old of, if I want to have the shank on the bolt go through the complete suspension pickup, then I have to buy a massive bolt and cut down the threaded part.

I was thinking I could buy some steel or stainless 1/2" rod and then make up a piece that has two threaded ends so I could make it to each pick up point.

Any thoughts if this is OK to do and if so, what material would people recommend?
 
Brett, I buy all my UNF bolts from NAMRICK, ( look up on Google ) Dont forget that cut threads are much less strong than rolled threads !
 
AN hardware is sized specifically for that kind of use. Any aircraft supply house carries AN hardware. It's airworthy, certified and traceable Grade 5 hardware and is ALL shank except for enough threads to put a washer under the head of the bolt and a washer under the nut + a nut obviously. Also - they're CAD plated - much better than zinc! (Only allowed in the aircraft / aerospace and defense industries.)

Wicks Aircraft Supply
Pilot Supplies, Avionics, and Homebuilt Aircraft Parts from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Co.

These are 2 popular ones...
 
I hope I explain this correctly...

With a ot of the bolts I can get old of, if I want to have the shank on the bolt go through the complete suspension pickup, then I have to buy a massive bolt and cut down the threaded part.

I was thinking I could buy some steel or stainless 1/2" rod and then make up a piece that has two threaded ends so I could make it to each pick up point.

Any thoughts if this is OK to do and if so, what material would people recommend?

Oh, and to answer your questions: DEFINITELY NOT OK!
 
Hi Brett,

I'm just creating a materials database from an old Team Lotus designers handbook i have which i'll post here when i have finished it that will give some guidance on materials etc for common uses like bolts, driveshafts etc.

First issue on a double ended bar as you have described is that you will struggle to tighten the nuts up equally as one will turn more easily than the other which will have to bottom out before the other one starts to turn. Might not neccessarily be a problem depending on how well the plain shank is designed as a fit in the u bracket etc.

The preferred method is to use NAS bolts (available as someone said from Trident and other aerospace suppliers). They are basically specified as length of plain shank with a small amount and consistent length of thread on the end, effectively giving you what you desire.

The bolts on the GTD etc are massively over size for the application, which in practicality do give you some margin to use a more standard material bolt cut down as you said without concern. NAS bolts are expensive, probably dozens of times more expensive than the bolts you are currently using, but, probably cheaper and better than trying to make up something special to do the job.

Just for a guide, an F1 car's highest loaded suspension bolt is usually on the front lower wishbone outboard joint (the bolt that holds the lower wishbone to the front upright). This bolt on the cars i designed was 8mm diameter (equivalent to a 5/16" NAS bolt), most of the other suspension bolts were 1/4". An F1 car is about 650kg's ish and over 2 tons at full speed with the downforce. These cars then corner at upto 4g. Our beloved GT40's might be statically heavier but with no downforce and under 1 g corner capability they have nothing like the load in any of the suspension members. So the use of 7/16" ish average to good commerical grade bolts is going to be quite adequate.

D.
 
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