Mark B's Build Thread

Mark B.

Supporter
My girls must have felt sorry for me this weekend -- for Father's Day my oldest went with me to a cruise-in on Saturday and my youngest went with Sunday morning on a supercar tour here in Austin. They asked me to be the center lead car which was cool but kind of surreal since we were surrounded by a load of high $$ cars. They had 4 Cybertrucks with camera people strapped in taking pictures of everyone and even a helicopter. Definitely not my normal scene :) . It was a blast though, and they had a police escort to prevent people from being overly stupid. Even got a shot in the local news.

 
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Mark B.

Supporter
Here's a pic of the SLC leading the cruise. A lot of very nice, high-dollar cars there.

AGT 2024.jpg
 

Mark B.

Supporter
It's been a while since my last update, so here goes. I did a bunch of driving around, cars and coffee, etc and now have about 3600 miles on the car. Overall it was working fine even in the crazy Texas heat this year. in Sept I decided to do a couple projects:

1) Swapped out to a Davies Craig electric water pump. This was partially because my engine revs to 8200 RPM which is not great for a belt-driven water pump. Also, it saves some space / cleaner belt routing. Kind of one of those "It's not broke, so I'll fix it anyway" projects. :) It wasn't too bad of a project, but I really wish I had just done it when I built the car as accessing the pump while the engine was in the car is a major pain. I just posted a video of the process (link below).

2) I rebuilt my dry sump oil pump. The pump had been working fine (good oil pressure, etc), but I wanted to be safe since, even though it has relatively low miles, the pump is 8 years old and has a lot of dyno / track time as well. This was another of those "It's working fine, so let me take it apart" projects. I'm very glad I did, though because I found that it had major damage to the idler shaft, pressure gears, pressure regulator/end-cap, and pressure section housing. At some point, the idler shaft (which is fixed -- the gears rotate around it) broke its locking pin and spun, causing the damage. Shockingly it still worked fine even with that damage. $500 in parts later, I rebuilt it and it's better than new now. Video for this project will be up soon.

3) As a bonus project, right after I completed the above projects and had a great day of driving around / cars and coffee, I heard a tapping sound which soon turned into a metallic scraping sound (from the engine). I limped home and started a multi-week effort of tracking down what was wrong. I learned a hard lesson about the different types of solid roller lifters, and what NOT to run on a car that sees a good chunk of street driving. The lifters I had were designed for race motors that are always revving high so get a lot of splash oiling on the roller tip so don't have pressurized oil going to the needle bearings (I didn't realize that when I bought them). They also restrict the oil going to the pushrod / rockers / springs to avoid oil pooling in the valvetrain with extended high-rpm use. Those two things eventually led to one of the rollers failing (a few others were starting to go as well), AND one of the inner coils of a valvespring broke (presumably due to lack of oiling). Fortunately, my T&D shaft rockers were all still perfect. So I spent a couple weeks pulling the motor, heads, lifters, cam, etc. New lifters (the right ones this time), new cam (because the lobe where the lifter failed was scarred, new springs, and a bunch of other stuff. Fortunately, after popping the main caps off to inspect for damage, they were all perfect so no metal got anywhere it shouldn't. Of course, projects 1 and 2 would have been much easier with the motor out so that was just annoying. :D I'm putting a video together for this one as well and will post in the next few days.

So the car is finally back on the road again and all appears to be working well. I just signed up for a track day at COTA on December 15 (which sounds so strange for someone who grew up in Chicago). That will be my first time on that track and 2nd track day in the SLC so I'll be taking it easy.

Here's the vid for the electric water pump install:
 
Installed zero-rate springs on front to keep the springs from popping off at full droop. I also flipped the front shocks for easier access to the adjusters and slightly lower unsprung weight.
Mark,
Do you mind letting me know what model of zero-rate springs you used on the front suspension. Also is that the standard spring or did you change out to another load rating?
Thanks
Bill
 

Mark B.

Supporter
Mark,
Do you mind letting me know what model of zero-rate springs you used on the front suspension. Also is that the standard spring or did you change out to another load rating?
Thanks
Bill
Hi Bill, The zero-rate springs on the front are Hyperco. Here's the link on Amazon
I increased both front and rear spring rates. Fronts were originally 600LB, now 700LB. Rears were 650LB, now 850. My kit was delivered back in 2014 so I'm not sure what rates Fran is shipping them with now though.

I also added bump springs on the shock shafts to prevent bottoming out/tire rubbing.
 

Mark B.

Supporter
I finally have my first track day next Sunday at COTA (have done a smaller track and the Texas Mile already). I grew up in Chicago so used to track my C4 at Road America a bunch, but this will be the first big track with the SLC. I'll be taking it easy to get used to the track and car, of course.
In addition to the normal stuff like alignment and swapping out brake pads I wanted to add front brake ducts so here are a few pics. I know I'm going to need to swap out the stock C4 wheel bearings, so will revise the mounting when I do that.

For the inlets, I used off-the-shelf 4x6 3" ducts and made 3 small L-brackets on each side, riveted to the ducts and #10 screws through the body. It's not a perfect match for the body duct, but close enough to cover the whole thing.
1733585911668.jpeg

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I made a template out of thin cardboard and cut the rotor-side duct plates out of aluminum. Then shaped a 3" aluminum tube to fit the plate and welded it on.
1733586004864.jpeg


I used 2, longer hub bolts to mount the plates.
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Since I have wheel well liners, I cut out enough to clear the hoses and used a P-clamp to keep the hose in place when I open the hood. There's enough flex in the hose to allow the hood to open and close without binding the hose. I just need to zip-tie the ducts to the A-arms to keep them from flopping around, but checked lock-to-lock clearance and there's plenty in both directions.
1733586336607.jpeg
 

Neil

Supporter
I finally have my first track day next Sunday at COTA (have done a smaller track and the Texas Mile already). I grew up in Chicago so used to track my C4 at Road America a bunch, but this will be the first big track with the SLC. I'll be taking it easy to get used to the track and car, of course.
In addition to the normal stuff like alignment and swapping out brake pads I wanted to add front brake ducts so here are a few pics. I know I'm going to need to swap out the stock C4 wheel bearings, so will revise the mounting when I do that.

For the inlets, I used off-the-shelf 4x6 3" ducts and made 3 small L-brackets on each side, riveted to the ducts and #10 screws through the body. It's not a perfect match for the body duct, but close enough to cover the whole thing.
View attachment 144098
View attachment 144100

I made a template out of thin cardboard and cut the rotor-side duct plates out of aluminum. Then shaped a 3" aluminum tube to fit the plate and welded it on.
View attachment 144099

I used 2, longer hub bolts to mount the plates.
View attachment 144101
View attachment 144102

Since I have wheel well liners, I cut out enough to clear the hoses and used a P-clamp to keep the hose in place when I open the hood. There's enough flex in the hose to allow the hood to open and close without binding the hose. I just need to zip-tie the ducts to the A-arms to keep them from flopping around, but checked lock-to-lock clearance and there's plenty in both directions.
View attachment 144103
Why the double nut on the hub mount?
 

Mark B.

Supporter
Well, I finally got the SLC out for a proper track day at Circuit of the Americas. Texas being Texas, it was mid 70's on Dec 15th with scattered light showers. The track was damp all day, but no standing water. I went with Edge Addicts (my first time with them) -- great bunch of people and nicely run event.
I had the car set up with -2* camber in the front, -1.4* rear. 0 toe front and rear. Tires are Nitto NT01's stock sizes. Stock Brembo brakes with Carbotech XP12 pads front and rear. I also corner balanced the car before the event.

This was my first time at COTA in ANY car, much-less something with this level of power/weight, so I drove like my dead grandma in all sessions. If they had given an award for giving the most point-by's I would have easily won. :D I had an instructor with me the whole time which was great to learn the track. My best time was 2:48 which is complete crap, but that wasn't the goal for the day. I wanted to learn the track and see if anything broke (it didn't), so I'm happy.

The car did great. More than enough power and extremely responsive. Felt great in all sections of the track. I never came close to finding the limits but did get loose once when I decided it was a good idea to lift mid-turn in turn 10 (high speed left-hand kink). Quick clutch in and let the wheel go straight and the car righted itself instantly. My instructor was even surprised at how quickly it recovered.

Tires only got to 110* or so, and the brakes only got to about 260* which gives you an idea of how easy I drove it. I got it up to 140 on the front straight and 158 on the back straight just for fun a few times, but it still had plenty more. Coolant maxed out in the low 220's and the oil got up to 265 (I forgot to turn on the oil cooler fan).

The only complaint I had was the slow steering rack made it a bit strange/hard to not shuffle-steer in tight turns, but I got used to it.

Overall, I'm very happy with how the car performed, and looking forward to getting it out again to build up my confidence and get some respectable times.

Here's an in-car vid:

And another quick clip my wife got of me on the front straight at about 140.
 
Awesome you put the car in its element! There are several coaches in the Austin area that could help you get up to speed safely.

That car should do well below 2:20s. I was lapping 2:40s in a 180hp BRZ in the rain last weekend at COTA (weekend before you were there) and 2:19s in a nearly stock Z06.

videos: https://www.youtube.com/JordonMusser
 

Mark B.

Supporter
Awesome you put the car in its element! There are several coaches in the Austin area that could help you get up to speed safely.

That car should do well below 2:20s. I was lapping 2:40s in a 180hp BRZ in the rain last weekend at COTA (weekend before you were there) and 2:19s in a nearly stock Z06.

videos: https://www.youtube.com/JordonMusser
Thanks! Yea I definitely think the car can do that -- but the driver needs more work first :)
 

Mark B.

Supporter
I've been wanting to replace my 'temporary' door panels/pulls/releases for a while now so I finally tried laying up some carbon fiber panels. For my first time I think they turned out alright. 3 layers of 2k carbon wet-laid and cleared with rattle-can 2k gloss clear. I used 3/4" carbon tube for the door pulls with 1/8" aluminum brackets that I bent up. The releases are drawer latches I got off Amazon, but they work perfectly, and I think they look good/simple.

The old setup:
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And the new setup:
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Mark B.

Supporter
I decided to put my SLC badge (thanks Fran!) inside the car rather than on the hood. Have to make people work a little to figure out what the car is :)

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Howard Jones

Supporter
Representative times at COTA:

SCCA TRANSAM TA2 about 2:13
SCCA TRANSAM TA about 2:03
IMSA GT3 about 2:06.30
NASCAR Cup about 2:08
NASCAR Xfinity series 2:15.3
INDY CAR 1:45 (2019)
IMSA WSC Toyota GR010 1:52 (2024)
F1 1:36 (2019)
Formula Ford 2:18.6
Mazda MX5 Cup 2:32

Anything under 2:30 is going pretty good for an amateur mature-aged driver trying not to break the car. Low 2:30s should be moderately easy for a SLC on Hoosiers and 500HP.
 
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