Mark B's Build Thread

Mark B.

Supporter
I haven't posted in a while as I've had the car back apart this summer redoing the exhaust and re-mounting the rear clam. The exhaust came about after I ran the Texas mile and realized that one of my Flowmaster DBX mufflers blew out. I decided to completely reroute the system, remove the cats, add an X-pipe and adding heat shielding, and new mufflers. I have to say I'm surprised that it doesn't sound much different in the car. I don't have any video yet of it outside the car at speed but will grab some as soon as I can.

I'm very happy with how the new hinge and clam mount works. I admit I completely ripped off the basic design from Frank after seeing his car earlier this year. The mount is much stronger than the original one was and opens fully.

Here's a video going through the project
 
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Mark:

Great job on the exhaust, sounds great!!! I am pretty sure I will have to re do mine eventually, way too loud as it is, the original mufflers I chose did not fit since I had to modify the rear clam to accommodate the corvette tail lights .

Quick question, you had the car at 187 mph , if I remember correctly , with a street tail , I guess not having the rear wing on the back obviously with less downforce on the street tail is not a problem (I have the street tail )

Hoping to visit you soon with my street legal SLC , getting close !!!
 

Mark B.

Supporter
Mark:

Great job on the exhaust, sounds great!!! I am pretty sure I will have to re do mine eventually, way too loud as it is, the original mufflers I chose did not fit since I had to modify the rear clam to accommodate the corvette tail lights .

Quick question, you had the car at 187 mph , if I remember correctly , with a street tail , I guess not having the rear wing on the back obviously with less downforce on the street tail is not a problem (I have the street tail )

Hoping to visit you soon with my street legal SLC , getting close !!!
Hi Hector,
Yea the car was absolutely stable at 187 with the street tail. That's in a straight line of course -- if I get really serious about track days like Howard, I'd add a wing. There is downforce in the rear coming from the tail -- very unscientifically measured by looking at the rear view camera in my Texas Mile video: The camera is mounted to the transaxle with a cutout in the body that it 'looks' through. You can see the body pushing down in to the camera's view as the car gets faster and the body mount flexes (that was before I redid the rear clam mount and reinforced it).
I think the larger radiator exit / ducting helped to keep the front planted as well. Alignment was huge as well. The first time I went out I had it set up more for track (something like 1/32" tow out in front). At 140ish it didn't want to track straight. I changed to about 1/32" toe IN and it was perfect after that at speed.
I'd love to meet up some time when you're ready to take it out! I'm disassembling mine right now to get ready for paint but should be back on the road in a couple of months.
 
Hi Hector,
Yea the car was absolutely stable at 187 with the street tail. That's in a straight line of course -- if I get really serious about track days like Howard, I'd add a wing. There is downforce in the rear coming from the tail -- very unscientifically measured by looking at the rear view camera in my Texas Mile video: The camera is mounted to the transaxle with a cutout in the body that it 'looks' through. You can see the body pushing down in to the camera's view as the car gets faster and the body mount flexes (that was before I redid the rear clam mount and reinforced it).
I think the larger radiator exit / ducting helped to keep the front planted as well. Alignment was huge as well. The first time I went out I had it set up more for track (something like 1/32" tow out in front). At 140ish it didn't want to track straight. I changed to about 1/32" toe IN and it was perfect after that at speed.
I'd love to meet up some time when you're ready to take it out! I'm disassembling mine right now to get ready for paint but should be back on the road in a couple of months.
Thank you for the info, yes , we will meet soon hopefully after our cars are painted, I am plastic dipping mine for now , like Cam .
 

Mark B.

Supporter
Hi everyone,
Quick update and question for you all...
I have the car partially disassembled and off getting painted. I decided on paint rather than dip or wrap since the whole car needs sanding/filling and there were several areas I needed repaired anyway and this way I'll have a base if I do decide to play with different colors later with a dip. Since it's still a street/track car I'm not doing a high-dollar paint job. Hope to get it back in a few weeks and start re-assembling it.

In the mean-time I'm getting ready to do the interior. After looking at different options for the dash and header/bulkhead I decided to order the carbon versions of those parts from Fran. For the tub, I trimmed quite a bit off so just the side and rear areas are left (I like the exposed aluminum). So I want to wrap those areas of the tub with something like trunk carpet. I'm looking for any recommendations from you all on what materials you've used or what to avoid as well as any tricks and tips.

Thanks!
 

Joel K

Supporter
Hi Mark,

If you can post a pic of how you trimmed the tub I would be interested in seeing it. I’ve been thinking about how I’ll install the carpet and wanted to make removable molded sections where the carpet lays against the flat chassis floor and sides. I didn’t want to just use contact cement on the sound and heat shielding. If using contact cement I have to pull up the carpeting I am thinking it would destroy the layer it was attached to.

I haven’t come to a conclusion but right now thinking to make patterns out of 1/16” garolite sheets. Cut those to fit the floor and sides of the chassis and glue the carpeting to them. then screw the sheets into the chassis in a few places. Can even shape them with Some fiberglass resin and mat and are fire retardant.
 

Mark B.

Supporter
Hey Joel,
Here are a couple screen grabs from a video I took before I dropped the car off. Not great angles, but you can get the idea. I completely removed the center console as well as the area in front of the seats. I kept those pieces in case I ever decide to put them back in, but after driving it for over a year I prefer it this way. You can also see the access panel behind the driver's seat for fuel tank fitting access.

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1705772907845.png
 

Mark B.

Supporter
Hey everyone,
I've been heads-down in the painting process of the car -- disassembled it last month, off to paint, and just got it back. Now it's on to carpeting the tub and reassembly which will likely take me another month with work/family priorities. Of course I'm doing a bunch of "while I'm at it" projects, like some body reinforcements, raptor-pro bedliner under the front and rear clips, rebuilding/altering and new frame for the factory shifter, etc. I'll post pics / videos on each as I get stuff wrapped up later this month/in to March.

PSA: One of the pain points I've had the couple times I've needed to remove the Hella headlight units is the plastic clips that hold the adjusting screws to the body frequently crack on removal. It's not something you have to do a lot of course, but you have to buy the clips as a set that includes the adjusting screws and the internet seems to think they're worth $20 or more for a package of 3. I found a supplier that has them for $7.50 for the set if you ever break yours: https://www.partshubdirect.com/products/hella-152977001-adjusting-screw-for-90mm-series-lamp-95663
 
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