Mason’s Build: Superlite SLC

Pacific Customs


and Moore Parts


both sell a bolt on option that may work for you.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
I have a quick question about tone rings (reluctor rings/ABS wheel sensor rings).

I have contacted RCR 3 times to buy the rings without success and I have also spoken to The Driveshaft Shop and they are unaware of this item.

Is there an alternative source for these press on rings for the Porsche 930 axles used with my Graziano?

View attachment 109572
For my GT-R with Graz and RCR axles. CV part number is on my thread to see if same part number you use on SLC.


Driveshaft shop part number: ABS-GM-10-X9
ABS Ring Machined for 108mm CV
$40.00

The Driveshaft Shop
Phone # 1-704-633-2380

Fax # 1-704-633-2385

[email protected]
 
Kurt, I kept running into the bolt-on versions That you linked but my ecu specifies a higher tooth count if I want to use the built in traction control.

Steven, thanks for the part Numbers that will work perfectly since my CV axles are 108mmx40mm.
 

Jasper

Supporter
Yeah, got that shout out on DR25 and SCL.. :-D you fallen down the same rabbit hole called HP Academy, and you will never look at your wiring the same ever again.
Also.. you want to redo your entire car at least another 3 times after this.. believe me, been there.
 
Jasper! You were the catalyst.

I’ve actually bought the entire lifetime HPacademy.com package and I’m taking the Motorsport level wiring course. Thanks for your advice!

I have resisted terminating/sheathing long runs while I continue to document and test every circuit and sensor. I’m so nervous to bundle it all up!

I discovered that my headlight switch is bad and since my existing column is a bit crusty I bought a salvage 99-02 Oldsmobile Intrigue column to swap out.

Also, in other news I tracked down my aluminum welding issues to a bad bottle of Argon. After weeks of leak testing, replacing the torch and switching tungstens, the bad gas was the culprit and now my welds are beautifully shiny!

C6540E55-8FDB-4100-9B7D-A292607DCE18.jpeg
 

Jasper

Supporter
I have resisted terminating/sheathing long runs while I continue to document and test every circuit and sensor. I’m so nervous to bundle it all up!
My advice.. do all the prototyping you are doing right now. Then do the drawings and design as you were taught in the courses, and build a wiring loom from scratch based on all your learning from the prototyping phase. Drive the car for a while in this prototyping phase too, You'll learn about things that work, things you'd want to include, etc.

Starting from scratch will allow you to build the harness exactly to the spec you want, have quick connectors to easilty disconnect your body shells/dashboard/engine loom etc.
Reuse your connectors, use new terminals everywhere, use tefzel wiring for reliabilty and small packaging.

Awesome progress, on a magical combination of the V10 in this package, keep going!
 
Jasper, this is fantastic advice. Thinking of this as a prototype harness will free up my mind to experiment and develop the car without being obsessed about every wire run being perfect on the first try. Thanks dude!

BTW Do you use the fancy PDMs or the normal fuse box and relays?
 
I‘m replacing my steering column due to a bad headlight switch and sticky bearings. Previous owner had let it sit in the elements, so it was not in good shape.

A low mileage salvage 99-02 Oldsmobile intrigue column was $80 Shipped and it is buttery smooth and It needs a few modifications to fit the Superlite.

Steering Column mods
  1. Remove clockspring electronics
  2. wire wheel removal of surface rust
  3. Grind off welds on the tail end bracket to loosen it
  4. Trim bracket to fit Superlite dash mount bracket
  5. Weld tail bracket in vertical position
  6. Insert Double-D steering shaft that protrudes 1 1/4” beyond steering tube
  7. weld DD steering shaft to tube
  8. Paint column and brackets black
  9. mount column
  10. Install switches, cover, steering wheel
  11. Done
Top is original / Bottom is the replacement column

87A0A464-538B-46E9-AA3E-AD26ADAFBECB.jpeg


After wire wheel rust removal
78F72BF3-5C52-42FF-8A6B-13025712931D.jpeg


Tail bracket rotated, still needs trim and re-weld

D5DCAA0C-3A1B-47D6-82A7-F454D942D462.jpeg
 
Before closing up the fuel tank I added a second Holley Hydramat to my fuel cell. This will provide fuel under heavy cornering even when the fuel level is very low.

Fingers crossed that this works well, since the Hydramats and fixtures are not cheap! The fuel cell has added cost and complexity to the build but it does give me peace of mind.

B28FE6CA-48AC-49D4-B1E9-DF7A89BA0009.jpeg
 

Neil

Supporter
Mason, you've connected the two pickups with a "Y" connector into a single line so when only one pickup is submerged the other will be sucking air and no fuel will be picked up. I think you would be better off with one pickup in the lowest or rearmost place in your fuel cell. That fuel cell is a good idea!
 
Thanks Mark, one other detail is that the Y should be centered so that the pressure is equalized.
If you do this also make sure you buy submersible fuel hose, I bought a 10’ spool of dayco for $120.
The official lifespan for the cell is 5 years max, and +2 years if it passes inspection so best case is 7 years.
I will make sure that my access panels are easy to remove, so that the 5 year R&R is not too bad.

Disconnect lines / remove driver seat / remove panel / Buy new custom fuel cell
 
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