Mason’s Build: Superlite SLC

What is going on here in this photo?
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There doesn’t seem to be room for a nut on the rear chassis brace. But if I trap the head of a bolt there I can’t remove the brace without removing the spring mount?

I’ve definitely assembled part of this wrong.
 
What is going on here in this photo?
View attachment 108927
There doesn’t seem to be room for a nut on the rear chassis brace. But if I trap the head of a bolt there I can’t remove the brace without removing the spring mount?

I’ve definitely assembled part of this wrong.
You are correct Mason - the bolt should be inserted going front to back, so the head is captured by that slot. If you want to remove the cross brace it will require disconnecting the rear shocks.
 
I use the shallow locknut also you can get them at Fastenal. If you are worried about the bolt backing out drill head of bolt and wire tie it to upright.
 
Thanks Ed and Joel, I'm learning so much about fasteners with this build! I will source some shallow lock nuts on McMaster-Carr.
 
Cam, thanks sir! Your car was an inspiration to me!

I've started conversing with various exhaust manufacturers that build systems for the Audi R8 V10+. I believe I can use one of those off the shelf exhausts but that means the Race Tail and Stock diffuser are getting cut up or replaced.

Top contenders for exhausts are the following:
  • Quicksilver Audi R8 V10 Active Titan Sport Exhaust (2016-19) (Titanium/SS Hybrid)

  • Avior Resonated Exhaust (Full Ti)

Hector, I LOVE your car color combo. What colors of dip are you going to try?

I'm going to do gold titanium and heat shield and wheels LOL. I'm going full NASA back there.
This is so funny, we are exactly on the same page, I am looking at several gold hues, full NASA it is!!!!
 
Hector, I love the space age look of the McLaren F1 golden lined engine bay!

Are those exhaust titanium? I'm not sure if Stainless steel can get that same color.


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For those wondering how accurate the Humster3D SLC model is. Here is a comparison between a 3D scan and the Humster model.

Vented Fenders = Humster3D model
Non-Vented = 3D Scan

The real body is more attractive!

View attachment 108939
Thanks for comparing them! Totally agree, real body looks much more attractive. Something about those headlight and signal "slots" doesn't flow as well.
 
Happy to report that my V10 is now singing (quite loudly) after a tricky 2 weeks of troubleshooting engine timing problems.

After checking that the timing was correct I was still getting a knock sound from the left bank of cylinders. After ordering a set of timing tools and pulling apart the Vanos gears, it turns out that the previous owner had incorrectly assembled the Vanos gear!


Because of this the Vanos variable valve timing was losing sync on that one cam. After reassembly I can finally rev her beyond 900rpm!

I also learned that I need to invest in some catalytic converters or resonators because the engine is deafening when running solely the Eisenmann Race mufflers. My neighbors to the south also contacted me to let me know how excited they were about my project.



Now I need to tackle a shrinking list of items before I go on my first go cart ride.

View attachment 108872
Looks awesome, how are you going to fit those mufflers under the rear clam? I am thinking of using quiet muffler such as the flowmaster big block 50 , to keep things on the quiet side but they will have to go on top of the rear cross bar
 
Looks awesome, how are you going to fit those mufflers under the rear clam? I am thinking of using quiet muffler such as the flowmaster big block 50 , to keep things on the quiet side but they will have to go on top of the rear cross bar
I’m going to sell those and buy some Quicksilver Titan Sport active exhausts that were designed for the Lamborghini Gallardo.

The new exhaust will fit in the rear of the chassis, but I will need to cut out the rear of the body for clearance.

I’m away from the project for a few days, but I only have 1-2 hours of work before my first drive (around the driveway)!
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
What is going on here in this photo?
Just found this. Cam is correct. The head of the bolt gots on the inboard side and the fixture captures it. My car has been together that way since the upgrade many years ago and so far no problems. Taking the bolt out to remove the shock isn't that big of a deal. Iv'e done it more times than I can count. IMHO don't use a thin nylock there. A full width nut bolt combination is needed in that position to provide clamping force to prevent flexing the "ears" of the vertical solid chassis element. That would be quite a bit of work to fix if one cracked.
 
There is about 1/16 space between the heim joint and the ears so I put a washer in between them so I will not flex the ears when I torque the bolt
I capture the nut. Had it that way for three years no problem but I don't track my car. If I remove that bolt I replace the nut.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Ed is correct also. I do the same thing on all four solid vertical "ear" chassis members. Do not use the clamping force of the fasteners to close the "ears" Also while we are at it. I strongly recommend a top stay for the shock rockers to place the axis of the pivot shaft in double sear. Cams car has good pictures as do mine.
 
I have a quick question about tone rings (reluctor rings/ABS wheel sensor rings).

I have contacted RCR 3 times to buy the rings without success and I have also spoken to The Driveshaft Shop and they are unaware of this item.

Is there an alternative source for these press on rings for the Porsche 930 axles used with my Graziano?

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