Also run by Shmee150, so I’ll be in good company!I'm liking the first one - Titan Sport Exhaust
You are correct Mason - the bolt should be inserted going front to back, so the head is captured by that slot. If you want to remove the cross brace it will require disconnecting the rear shocks.What is going on here in this photo?
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There doesn’t seem to be room for a nut on the rear chassis brace. But if I trap the head of a bolt there I can’t remove the brace without removing the spring mount?
I’ve definitely assembled part of this wrong.
This is so funny, we are exactly on the same page, I am looking at several gold hues, full NASA it is!!!!Cam, thanks sir! Your car was an inspiration to me!
I've started conversing with various exhaust manufacturers that build systems for the Audi R8 V10+. I believe I can use one of those off the shelf exhausts but that means the Race Tail and Stock diffuser are getting cut up or replaced.
Top contenders for exhausts are the following:
- Quicksilver Audi R8 V10 Active Titan Sport Exhaust (2016-19) (Titanium/SS Hybrid)
- Avior Resonated Exhaust (Full Ti)
Hector, I LOVE your car color combo. What colors of dip are you going to try?
I'm going to do gold titanium and heat shield and wheels LOL. I'm going full NASA back there.
Thanks for comparing them! Totally agree, real body looks much more attractive. Something about those headlight and signal "slots" doesn't flow as well.For those wondering how accurate the Humster3D SLC model is. Here is a comparison between a 3D scan and the Humster model.
Vented Fenders = Humster3D model
Non-Vented = 3D Scan
The real body is more attractive!
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Not sure about titanium vs ss, but looks very cool . Total blingHector, I love the space age look of the McLaren F1 golden lined engine bay!
Are those exhaust titanium? I'm not sure if Stainless steel can get that same color.
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I used that pearl over a red base on a Jaguar XKR, looked so awesome. I miss that car.I am thinking ZTO hyper shift pearl.
Looks awesome, how are you going to fit those mufflers under the rear clam? I am thinking of using quiet muffler such as the flowmaster big block 50 , to keep things on the quiet side but they will have to go on top of the rear cross barHappy to report that my V10 is now singing (quite loudly) after a tricky 2 weeks of troubleshooting engine timing problems.
After checking that the timing was correct I was still getting a knock sound from the left bank of cylinders. After ordering a set of timing tools and pulling apart the Vanos gears, it turns out that the previous owner had incorrectly assembled the Vanos gear!
Because of this the Vanos variable valve timing was losing sync on that one cam. After reassembly I can finally rev her beyond 900rpm!
I also learned that I need to invest in some catalytic converters or resonators because the engine is deafening when running solely the Eisenmann Race mufflers. My neighbors to the south also contacted me to let me know how excited they were about my project.
Now I need to tackle a shrinking list of items before I go on my first go cart ride.
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I’m going to sell those and buy some Quicksilver Titan Sport active exhausts that were designed for the Lamborghini Gallardo.Looks awesome, how are you going to fit those mufflers under the rear clam? I am thinking of using quiet muffler such as the flowmaster big block 50 , to keep things on the quiet side but they will have to go on top of the rear cross bar
Just found this. Cam is correct. The head of the bolt gots on the inboard side and the fixture captures it. My car has been together that way since the upgrade many years ago and so far no problems. Taking the bolt out to remove the shock isn't that big of a deal. Iv'e done it more times than I can count. IMHO don't use a thin nylock there. A full width nut bolt combination is needed in that position to provide clamping force to prevent flexing the "ears" of the vertical solid chassis element. That would be quite a bit of work to fix if one cracked.What is going on here in this photo?