Oil pan gasket reco ?

[EGLITOM]

Hi

i want to redo my oil pan gasket, the currently used cork rubber combination starts to leak slightly.

My block is the 302 new boss block.
BOSS 302 CYLINDER BLOCK | Part Details for M-6010-BOSS302* | Ford Racing Performance Parts

Oil pan is the Aviad GT40 type pn 55360
Wet Sump Road Race Oil Pans (SBF 289/302 & 351W) at Aviaid

It is said that a standard mustang oil pan (79 - 95) fits , so i assume the gasket of this years as well.

Checked out summit and would like to go with a 1 piece rubber type gasket.

which one would you choose

Mr. Gasket 6683 - Mr. Gasket Oil Pan Gasket Sets - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Milodon 41003 - Milodon One-Piece Oil Pan Gaskets - Overview - SummitRacing.com

or should i go with a 2 pcs type, if so which one?

or your reco

Thanks

TOM

 

[(C)arlos]

Tom,
one piece rubber, for me no question ....but in all cases you need silicon in the corners otherwise it will leak over time

However, what I did in the past and it worked very well is to seal the cork gaskets with (just a very thin layer) high temperature silicon a bit preventing it from socking in oil and drying out ....worked quite well....but rubber is the way to go ....
However check the pan on a even surface to see if it is really straight and pay special attention to the recommended torque figures in the manual..
Mr Gasket did work for me in several 302's very well

Cheers
(C)arlos

 

[Mike Huddart]

Before you decide you need to check the oil pan, Aviaid pans are not what they used to be, the last one we used was so badly distorted we had to clamp it to the block just to get some of the bolts in. Every one lately has been warped, maybe now made in Mexico or some such.
If it is bent better to use one of the fibrous gaskets, thay are more solid and will resist breaking up if the pan is uneven.
Don't use silicon, try something like Permatex "Right Stuff" it's rubber based and doesn't break off and finish up in the oilways.

Mike

 

[Jac Mac]

Test fit the pan to the block with some 'bearing blue' or dye crayon on the rear main cap & possibly #4 main to check for interference, some steel oil pans contact the caps & wont fit snugly at the pan rail as a result, this usually causes the pan to distort slightly when bolted on & eventually leak .

 

[Randy V]

X2 on everything above - Especially the recomendation of the "Right Stuff". I use that almost exclusively and have for the past 6-7 years or so. Tough as hell when it cures, does not leak. It can be a real bugger to get the parts separated again though during disassembly, but worth that extra time and effort in my opinion.

Pan rails - I also try to use OEM pan rail stiffners with lightweight pans. Worth that slight bit of extra weight to keep the rails from distorting.

 

[EGLITOM]

Thanks

Good hints in every post. I do like the Right Stuff as well, but it is difficult to get in germany. Last time i had to buy 10 cans and threw away half of it, because getting to old.
Will check the pan thoroughly .
Will use a combination of 1 pcs seal and right stuff. Pan is mainly "sweating" at the front and rear main cap seal, so i think rail stiffners are not nec ( although i like to idea).

Thanks for all your help

JAC MAC PM sent

 

[James T]

I love the Felpro one piece steel core with rubber/silicone layering on top(looks just like the ones you posted). Every oil pan/valve cover I do that has the sharp corners gets a tiny dab of silicone in the corners. My whole engine is done with Felpro and the only leaks I have are from the head studs haha...