Pedal Assembly Modifications

I assembled the Tilton Pedals and will be using the GM DRW. The RCR mount fit fine and I created the linkage to connect the DBW unit to the accelerator pedal. The low attachment on the pedal and the higher mounting on the extension arm made for great pedal feel and full range of pedal motion. All is great.......Except

When the DBW is attached, the entire pedal assembly is too wide to fit in the GT-R foot box.

A solution is to remount the clutch master cylinder at a slight angle to get over the suspension mounting on the left side of the foot box. I have the method of making the change in mind. Just want to know if anyone sees any problems with the angled master cylinder? Or if there are any other suggestions.

I like the position of the accelerator and the other pedals when the master cylinder is moved to a different angle. The accelerator feels too close to the tunnel when the DBW is removed.


Mark, just a thought

Have you given any thought to mounting the DBW to the firewall in lieu of the pedal assembly. May give you the space you need. A threaded rod should connect to pedal. Assuming the DBW cable is long enough of course.
The angled master cylinder will be an issue. The MC shaft allows for some up-down/side-to-side movement, but not much. At that angle you may need to much movement (shaft may rub on the cylinder). Be sure to check for that before spending time making brackets.

The angle will also change the 'feel' and travel of the clutch, but you can go up/down on the MC bore size to get that right if you are not happy with it.
Ran into the same issue on my GT-R build. There are rear pivot MCs, that would make for more compact assembly, but you'd have to modify the pedals. I wasn't comfortable with being out of lateral alignment so didn't investigate any other route. Not sure if it would buy you much more space, but I did end up using a banjo fitting on the clutch MC. Got me to where I wanted to be. At 6'1" and my seat a couple inches off the firewall made for comfortable seating/pedal position.


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The Banjo fitting may be an answer. I will try that out and see if it gets me enough room. Great Idea! I want to use the adjustable pedal mount, like you are using, so mounting the accelerator on the firewall is less desirable.
Can you also mount the MC to the inside of the bracket? That would buy you another 1/2". Might have to shorten the rod 1/2". But combined with the banjo those bits could add up.

Dr. David

Lifetime Supporter
Hi Mark,
In the third photo of your original post, it looks like your widest point on the right is the two bolts and nuts at the anterior (to the car) aspect of your attachment of the DBW to the bracket......I did a different application (LMP-1) using the same pedal assembly and had an unfortunate necessity to move my pedals as far to the right as possible. I replaced the two bolts with button-heads to the right, with bolt ends with nylocks facing inward, I don't think the plastic of the DBW is thick enough for flat-head countersunk allen bolts, but I may have flattened and polished the button-heads first......I know its not much, but if you are striving for space, it may gain you what you need....or at least help make your pedal adjustment smoother and not mar your tunnel.
I appreciate all of your input. I was already using 90 degree fittings on the output side of the master cylinders, so the Banjo fittings did not save me much. One of the issues I am facing is the fact that I lost about two inches of room behind the seats due to the boxing needed for my air intake. It is worth it to get the intake I wanted, but the foot box needs to make that up. I will look at the cylinder mounting and the bolt heads on the DBW and see it that will provide the room.


Ken Roberts

You could always switch to the C6 Corvette pedal assembly which is more compact and can be mounted directly behind the tilton pedal for greater side clearance.

Mark, don't forget to remove the factory spring at the base of the tilton pedal. Most of us remove it due to the GM pedal sensor having the needed spring. Your right foot will thank you.

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I appreciate all of the suggestions. Each one added a little to the space needed, but they were not enough. Ken's suggestion of the C6 DBW unit looks like it would work, but I had this option in the works. As you can see in the photos, I re-mounted the clutch master cylinder as close to the original approach angle as possible. I had to clear out the clutch pedal to allow for more freedom of movement, and I had to extend the piston to get the rubber bellows past the mounting.

It appears to work great. I did loose .25 inches of piston travel, so if this is significant in not allowing the clutch to disengage, I will need to get the next size larger master cylinder. Other than that, the range of swing built into the piston shaft is not compromised.