Play in new rodends

After installing the new suspension components on my GTD (arms, bolts and rods), I noticed some play on the rear wheel. Tracking down the source of the play, it looks like there is some radial play in new rodends.
With this amount of play on the wheel will not pass the technical inspection in our country. (similar to MOT inspection in the UK).
When checking the old Aurora rodends which were on the car before, also some small radial play can be felt.
Is this normal or can it be due to low quality rodends being provided and the old Aurora ones to be aged or due to low temperature in the garage (5 degrees Celsius) and the liner to shrink ?
 

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
Cannot address the rod ends you have (inferring that you indeed do have lined rod ends), but I have observed that my linered rod ends (Teflon, PTFE, etc), even in the winter, appear to remain tight, even after many miles.
 
High quality rod ends should have no play. As I recall the highest quality NMB or Aurora ones are the best to use. Used ones almost always have play after a couple of years.
 
Attached the picture of the provided rodends.
There is no brand mentioned on the parts.
They claim being using this particular ones in racing.
With this kind of endplay there is no chance to pass the MOT inspection.
Reading the AM range sounds to be good.
Aurora AB-AMT-8 PTFE lined ? 30$ each
 

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Andy,
Having no brand marking may indicate the inferior quality you've encountered. The Aurora series you reference would be a good choice at a reasonable price. I have used them on some race cars of mine with pretty good results. The very best are NMB ones at $100+ in the size you reference. NMB's last a very long time, but obviously are very expensive if you're replacing several rod ends.
 
I have red some experiences on other forums from racers using the QA1 and some do not recommend them and prefer Aurora since the QA1 showed also some play after one race despite advertising with higher load resistance.
 

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
Interesting. I've had these with 1 race, and about 400 street miles, and no issues as yet except for a single piece. I'm wondering if the ROI is worth the Aurora prices for what benefit in longevity is gained (if any). Where I might be getting some benefit is that the uprights I built have the corner weight resting on the upright itself, and not on the bearing or arm.
 
Late to the party here, but another option is the 3-piece Chrome Moly JMX/JFX series with a PTFE/teflon race from FK Rod Ends: https://www.rodendstore.com/rod-ends?manufacturer=71&rod_end_material=233&rod_end_race_material=241

You definitely want 3-piece Chrome Moly construction with a PTFE/teflon race for this kind of application. Nylon race should probably not be used because it will degrade over time. Nylon is a material which does not "bounce back". Once it's been overexerted, it stays here, whereas PTFE does not.

Another piece to consider is how much misalignment (angle of ball in rod end) you will need. There are options for high strength + high misalignment rod ends as well, which will reduce wear and tear on the lower (normal) misalignment ones.
 

Randy V

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I was helping someone else with a problem like this a few years back. The problem turned out to be something else other than a loose rod end. It was the bolts that were supplied in his kit. The manufacturer of the kit assembled the suspension with bolts that were both coarse thread and had insufficient shoulders. The lack of a shoulder was the problem as the outside diameter of the threads was roughly .060" smaller than the OD of the shoulder.
Make sure you inspect your bolts and ensure that the rod end is riding on the shoulder of the boat.
 
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