When trying to decide how tall the temporary spider support must be, you let the windshield dictate that?Windshield Day 5
Took a few days off to visit my daughter and her growing family in Houston. I’ll spare you the grandchildren stories
I finally finished sanding down the sides. The gaps at the top and bottom are more or less uniform at about 1/4”. The sides are about 3/32” and align nicely with the A-pillar ribs. I will repaint the frit. I had no idea what this black edge paint had a special name. I also learned that it provides both a bonding surface for the adhesive and protects the adhesive from UV. Hope I can replicate the crisp edge.
I found this one on Amazon
Everything came out very nice. I spent a lot of time making sure the edges were as smooth as a baby’s you know what. I figure any little defect could lead to a crack down the road.
After all this, I don’t recommend doing it yourself. The reason I didn’t take it too a glazier was because I didn’t know how to tell them how much to take off. I figured it out when I was almost done. See my response to Jeff B. above.
After all that fitting it was nice to see that the spider nearly touches the top center of the glass without any support. There is a gap between the PS A-pillar midway down the pillar. I can close the gap with a light squeeze so I think the adhesive will hold without issue.
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Randy's RCR40 MKI
- Thread starter Randy Folsom
- Start date
Randy Folsom
Supporter
No idea if I already posted this information. Apologies if it is a repeat.
I designed and fabricated solid engine mounts that fit the Dart 302 based blocks (I assume it will fit the 351W as well). I specify Dart because I found that the Dart blocks have more webbing on the mount bosses than Ford blocks. I tried two piece Urethan mounts from two different manufactures. Neither would fit in the narrow confines of the tub when the engine was at the ideal height without some material removal. They both also needed to be notched to accommodate the webbing mentioned earlier. These issues were what drove me to make my own mounts, but it turns out there is a much better reason.
I am running a Quaife transaxle, the mounting ears are on the top of the case and are just big enough to pass a bolt through. No room for a bushing. This means the transaxle has to be solid mounted to the dog bone (the best you can do is is use a bushings to absorb some of the fore/aft movement). It's a really bad idea to solid mount the transaxle and to flex mount the the engine. It doesn't take a genius to understand why. Quaife actually had a problem with cases cracking. I am only guessing, but I bet many of those failures involved flex mounting the engine and solid mounting the transaxle.
The mounts I designed are based on the Prothane mount dimensions. The Ears are sourced from SendCutSend.com. The main support is 2" X 2" X 1/4" angle stock. The Tube Risers are 1" X 3/16" DOM. The Ear spacer is 3/4" X 1/8" DOM. The files are zipped and attached below.
I designed and fabricated solid engine mounts that fit the Dart 302 based blocks (I assume it will fit the 351W as well). I specify Dart because I found that the Dart blocks have more webbing on the mount bosses than Ford blocks. I tried two piece Urethan mounts from two different manufactures. Neither would fit in the narrow confines of the tub when the engine was at the ideal height without some material removal. They both also needed to be notched to accommodate the webbing mentioned earlier. These issues were what drove me to make my own mounts, but it turns out there is a much better reason.
I am running a Quaife transaxle, the mounting ears are on the top of the case and are just big enough to pass a bolt through. No room for a bushing. This means the transaxle has to be solid mounted to the dog bone (the best you can do is is use a bushings to absorb some of the fore/aft movement). It's a really bad idea to solid mount the transaxle and to flex mount the the engine. It doesn't take a genius to understand why. Quaife actually had a problem with cases cracking. I am only guessing, but I bet many of those failures involved flex mounting the engine and solid mounting the transaxle.
The mounts I designed are based on the Prothane mount dimensions. The Ears are sourced from SendCutSend.com. The main support is 2" X 2" X 1/4" angle stock. The Tube Risers are 1" X 3/16" DOM. The Ear spacer is 3/4" X 1/8" DOM. The files are zipped and attached below.
Randy Folsom
Supporter
The support is to keep the spider from sagging over time. The support should just be snug if the spider is new. The sagging spider problems are caused by sitting in a garage without the glass installed and no support. Glass is one of the very last steps and builds can take many years.
I shaped the fire wall to fit the spider early in the building process and fastened down the spider with one screw at the front. I then trial fitted the doors to make sure the spider had the correct shape. The support is just a friction fit. I marked the location so it’s easy to get it back in position.
The windshield had a uniform 1/4” gap both top and bottom as delivered by RCR. The A Pillars is where I had fitment issues.
Randy,
I put my windshield in place and learned it fit the cavity but is very tight to the A pillars. When installing windshields, it is common to use a "T" shaped molding, the leg of the T going between the windshield and the A pillar. I am facing either remodeling the A pillar or grinding about 1/8" off each side of the windshield.
Did you consult with any glass shops to see what they would have charged to grind your windshield?
I put my windshield in place and learned it fit the cavity but is very tight to the A pillars. When installing windshields, it is common to use a "T" shaped molding, the leg of the T going between the windshield and the A pillar. I am facing either remodeling the A pillar or grinding about 1/8" off each side of the windshield.
Did you consult with any glass shops to see what they would have charged to grind your windshield?
Randy Folsom
Supporter
I used a belt sander and worked very slowly to avoid overheating the glass. Took four days. I heard a Dremal with a diamond wheel makes short work of the job. I still need to remove another 1/8” so going to try that. But I will go to the junk yard to get a windshield to try it on first.
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Hi seems a strange way to do it! You will probably need to replace that screen at some point in the future due to stones/debris hitting it. It me having the “hole” the correct size for a standard screen would make more sense and grinding the fibreglass away easier and less risky
Just my 2c
Just my 2c
Randy Folsom
Supporter
IMHO, removing 1/4” from the A-pillar will not look good and weaken it. If I ever replace the windshield it will be with Lexan (Polycarbonate).
I had fit issues with other engine mounts and the RCR brackets/chassis. I am using https://welderseries.company.site/Engine-Mount-Kit-small-block-Ford-urethane-bushed-Short-p549344316
Randy Folsom
Supporter
If you use bushings for the engine mounts make sure to have the same movement available for the transaxle mounts.
