Gary, since I was only doing one side, I found that I could disconnect the coilover and the top arm, and swivel the wheel upright outwads, bringing drive shaft complete with inner hub off the spline. Before doing that, I drifted the roll pin out from the inner drive hub.
The drive hub pushes onto the splined output shaft. There is a hole right through for the roll pin. With the roll pin out, the drive hub slides off the spline.
Since you may have the same issue as me, carry out this check before you disconnect anything.
With the car sitting on its wheels, you should find that the drive shaft is free to slide in the CV joints. With the car jacked up and the wheels hanging, that should still be the case. If not, the roll pins can be broken by the force, and the suspension will need to be adjusted to prevent the drive shaft transmitting the load with the car jacked up in future. (Im assuming yours is similar to mine here)
On the side of my leakage, (RHS), there is a castellated ring that contains the seal, there is a locking tab and securing bolt that prevents it turning. This needs to be removed, then the castellated ring screws out (carefully tapping round with a drift or make up a tool).
I dont know what the other side is like, but it does not have a castellated ring as far as I saw.
My car had only done 2800 miles when it started leaking, and was built in '91. The seal was in great condition, no groove in the hub.
If you find that the drive shaft locks up, you may find the seals are ok and the roll pins are broken, it might save some hassle if you check this first.
Hope this helps, if you need more I'll be glad to help, just let me know.
