Replacing lower front ball joint

[Jim Craik]

The other day, I noticed some play in the lower, left front ball joint, so I pulled the wheels. It appears that the rubber grease shields were split and some grit has entered the bearing. As you know, I have fairly high miles, so I want to change them out.

I have ordered the new ball joint replacement kits. Has anyone replaced their ball joints? Do I need any special tools? What type of grease should I use?

Thanks...

 

[DaveM]

Hi Jim,
I did that awhile ago and don't recall needing any special tools. It seems to me the metal ball and shaft unscrews from the upright. Then the threaded plug at the bottom of the a arm is removed. Finally knock out the ball plus nylon cup components. Please take some photos, I forgot to. I just used general lithium base chassis grease, but moly grease might be better?

 

[zollis]

Jim, the other day I came across a ball joint where I needed a special, cir-clip pliers. A pic might help.
















Z.C.

 

[Phil]

Jim:
Maybe a bit on the picky side but it might also be good to check alignment afterwards, parts tolerance is probably pretty good but I have seen some big differences.
Cheers
Phil

 

[Grady]

This was from 5-19-11---- Steve Cioffi

Re: Ball Joints and Boots Alan,

Yup, boots will tear/sever along the parting line without grease as the design of the boot puts a reinforced collar into a circular slot in the upright and w/o lube it grips and tears the boot.

If and when you take the assembly apart you will see that the SPF boot is "unique", no aftermarket or OEM boot is like it. Untill you take the assembly apart you might think it's not a good desigh as the center hole is wide but, you will see that it has a reinforced collar that seats in the upright better than an aftermarket will)

I had an extra set of SPF boots that I sent Grady that he had Olthoff install.

Here is how I did the disassembly, retrofit and reassembly:

Do all the obvious things like remove wheel, remove and tie up brake caliper (put space tween pads to maintain spacing ect).

Then with a floor jack under the lower arm loosen the ball joint nut. With some space afforded by loosening the nut you can pop the press fit taper by putting a chisel between the top of the ball joint shank and the upright housing and with a tap it will unseat.

Now comes the fun part:

Need to get a thin nose vice grip and after tearing away the old boot hold the shank on the straight (non tapered) section while turning the nut off. Lower the floor jack and the assembly will part.

Remove bottom bolt cap from lower arm (while it is off install a zerk fitting).

Remove ball joint (there will be a lower and upper nylon seat that comes out with the ball joint (new ones are in the kit with new boots).

Now comes the trick: Machine a hex in bottom center of the ball joint! This will allow you to hold/turn the ball joint while installing the nut and allow you to pull the ball joint into the upright taper (without the hex to hold it the ball joint will rotate while you try to seat it because of the nylock nut).

Good idea to check clearances before you disassemble as it's a good idea to remove a little length of the threaded end of the ball joint and get new nyloc nuts too.

before reassembly grease up the ball joint and seats (don't forget to install the boot) and when complete and the bottom bolt installed fill the cavity with grease via the new zerk.

I seal the lower bolt with the zerk with blue locktite (keeps the grease from oozing by the threads)

It's a feel thing as to how much to tighten the nut; just turn the wheells and tighten until you can tell the ball is seated in the nylon seats and there is a little friction.

That's it

Steve P2125

Replace with new SPF boot (get from Lance or Barry).
Last edited by steve c; 05-19-11 at 11:26 PM.

 

[Grady]

I will add, after greasing the joint, we removed the zerk and used an allen head screw to lessen the possible breaking the head off the zerk while driving. When you need to grease the joint again remove and replace with the zerk. Keep your boot protected from the elements with a protective coating.

 

[Grady]

Yet more good information from the past...

Ball Joints and Boots From another thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve c
Have replaced the ball joint boots (were torn because as originally received ball joints were not or not adequately greased and the boots tore due to turning forces with no lube to the rubber.

Once had the ball joints out (no easy task) I machined a hex in bottom of the ball joint to allow easy removal and install next time> If anyone wants more info I will elaborate.

Also good idea to install a zerk fitting in the threaded nut that seals the ball in lower control arm as it allows easy greasing.

Steve --

I would definitely like to know about your modification.

Also, what did you replace the ball joint boots with? Did you just get the ball joint kits from SPF? Via leads from Grady I found some possible replacements from Energy Suspensions but have not tried them.

BTW one of mine has split at the fold line either from not enough grease to keep the material from folding that sharply, or simply from rotting with age. Yet another issue I haven't gotten to yet....

 

[Jim Craik]

Dave, Zollis, Phil and Grady,

Thanks for your input, I really appreciate it!

Last Friday I ordered the ball joint kits from Dave Cope at Hillbank Motors in LA, they came on Tuesday, only $39 each, AMAZING!

I have printed out your instructions, thanks!

I'm very lucky, Alan Watkins, who lives nearby and has done this before, is going to come by today and help me out! I hope he brings his just registered 40!

I'll let you know how this turns out.