replica: most reliable??
- Thread starter Swan
- Start date
Being new to the research, I can give you several links to manufacturers without actually knowing too much more about them.
They're in no particular order and represent only MY personal collection, there may be others (but I haven't found them yet)
ERA replicas
GT40 New Zealand
GT supercars (don't think they have a kit just yet)
GTD (famous but now infamous and aparently in recievership)
Tornado sports cars
MDA GT40s
Roaring Fourties GT40s
They're in no particular order and represent only MY personal collection, there may be others (but I haven't found them yet)
ERA replicas
GT40 New Zealand
GT supercars (don't think they have a kit just yet)
GTD (famous but now infamous and aparently in recievership)
Tornado sports cars
MDA GT40s
Roaring Fourties GT40s
GT40 Australia should also be added. Their website is GT40Australia
Reliability is more a function of the builder
and not the basic kit.
MikeD
and not the basic kit.
MikeD
The term reliable could also be applied to the manufacturer - i.e., who has the best customer service, delivers what they promise when they promise it, etc...
I believe CAV sells Turnkey minuses only. But all the other manufactures sell
custom built turnkeys as well as kits in
many different configurations.I also believe that many of the other turnkey minuses are near the same price mark as well. It really depends on what options you
choose and whether a Monocoque chassis is
your preference or a space frame.
MikeDD is correct, the builder(s) will determine the quality. Making comparisons is not easy. It takes a lot of time to research each kit. The most important thing is to make sure you compare your requirments with each companies offering and it fits your needs within your price
range.
Checking out each manufacturers web site is a good start but I think you can also use the search feature on this site and learn heaps about any of these cars.
Don't forget to check out the GT40 enthusiasts site. They have gobbs of info about these cars. Remeber the UK and Australia are leaps and bounds ahead of us Yanks when it comes to forties. So get started and enjoy your journey, you will learn a lot.
Hersh
custom built turnkeys as well as kits in
many different configurations.I also believe that many of the other turnkey minuses are near the same price mark as well. It really depends on what options you
choose and whether a Monocoque chassis is
your preference or a space frame.
MikeDD is correct, the builder(s) will determine the quality. Making comparisons is not easy. It takes a lot of time to research each kit. The most important thing is to make sure you compare your requirments with each companies offering and it fits your needs within your price
range.
Checking out each manufacturers web site is a good start but I think you can also use the search feature on this site and learn heaps about any of these cars.
Don't forget to check out the GT40 enthusiasts site. They have gobbs of info about these cars. Remeber the UK and Australia are leaps and bounds ahead of us Yanks when it comes to forties. So get started and enjoy your journey, you will learn a lot.
Hersh
As a first-timer who is more or less a newbie to GT-40's, I have a series of "IIs" (idiot inquiries) for anyone who's got a minute or twenty. I am interested in getting into a repli-car to drive, not race. While I have AAA, I'm more interested in a reliable machine that's shiney than a monster to impress the local gearheads at the Donut circuit. (I've spent enough hours on the shoulder in my italian cars.) My car will not be used on the track (pretty much......). So:
1. Are there clubs, shows, or other events where one can see the cars in California or the West Coast?
2. How does the 302 do in the standard driver? The Audi transmission? Are purists more inclined toward the 351 (Windsor? Cleveland?) with the ZF (which seem to add about $5K to a car).
3. How do you get these cars smoged in CA (my '71 Pantera is exempt, so I don't worry about it)? Is DMV weird about anything else?
4. Is there any standard advice on whether to buy new from the manf. or find a used model? Do folks really ship these in directly from abroad in or mostly purchase from US-based reps, like CAV's distributors?
5. Who do you guys trust (other than yourselves) to work on these cars?
6. The CAVs I have seen have a major body difference from every other car I have looked at: the front air vent is this huge rectangular scoop out of the front hood. The originals, I believe, and all other replica's have the 2 symetrically placed triangular-shaped scoops (much nicer). What gives with that?
I could go on but I won't push my luck. Thanks for any info.......
SDP
P S Thanks for the many great links.
1. Are there clubs, shows, or other events where one can see the cars in California or the West Coast?
2. How does the 302 do in the standard driver? The Audi transmission? Are purists more inclined toward the 351 (Windsor? Cleveland?) with the ZF (which seem to add about $5K to a car).
3. How do you get these cars smoged in CA (my '71 Pantera is exempt, so I don't worry about it)? Is DMV weird about anything else?
4. Is there any standard advice on whether to buy new from the manf. or find a used model? Do folks really ship these in directly from abroad in or mostly purchase from US-based reps, like CAV's distributors?
5. Who do you guys trust (other than yourselves) to work on these cars?
6. The CAVs I have seen have a major body difference from every other car I have looked at: the front air vent is this huge rectangular scoop out of the front hood. The originals, I believe, and all other replica's have the 2 symetrically placed triangular-shaped scoops (much nicer). What gives with that?
I could go on but I won't push my luck. Thanks for any info.......
SDP
P S Thanks for the many great links.
I can answer a few of these:
1. Are there clubs, shows, or other events where one can see the cars in California or the West Coast?
How about Las Vegas? SAAC Does Vegas this weekend (Jan 31-Feb 2).
2. How does the 302 do in the standard driver? The Audi transmission? Are purists more inclined toward the 351 (Windsor? Cleveland?) with the ZF (which seem to add about $5K to a car).
Check out the other threads for discussions about these matters.
3. How do you get these cars smoged in CA (my '71 Pantera is exempt, so I don't worry about it)? Is DMV weird about anything else?
There's a new (recent) law in California that makes registering these kind of cars much easier. They basically came to the realization that it was a waste of time to hassle kit car owners, since there are not enough of these cars around to make a difference smog-wise, and these cars tend to be the best-kept and best-tuned cars around. It's my understanding that if you build a kit car that replicates a 1966 model, then it's a 1966 for smog purposes in CA. But I don't live in CA these days, so maybe someone who has been through the process can give you more info.
6. The CAVs I have seen have a major body difference from every other car I have looked at: the front air vent is this huge rectangular scoop out of the front hood. The originals, I believe, and all other replica's have the 2 symetrically placed triangular-shaped scoops (much nicer). What gives with that?
CAV can supply you with either style. I ordered the twin-nostril because I like the look better. What's up with that is that the original cars had the twin-nostril panel initially (mainly to fit the spare tire, I think), and later evolved to the single vent, which gives better airflow (and possibly downforce).
1. Are there clubs, shows, or other events where one can see the cars in California or the West Coast?
How about Las Vegas? SAAC Does Vegas this weekend (Jan 31-Feb 2).
2. How does the 302 do in the standard driver? The Audi transmission? Are purists more inclined toward the 351 (Windsor? Cleveland?) with the ZF (which seem to add about $5K to a car).
Check out the other threads for discussions about these matters.
3. How do you get these cars smoged in CA (my '71 Pantera is exempt, so I don't worry about it)? Is DMV weird about anything else?
There's a new (recent) law in California that makes registering these kind of cars much easier. They basically came to the realization that it was a waste of time to hassle kit car owners, since there are not enough of these cars around to make a difference smog-wise, and these cars tend to be the best-kept and best-tuned cars around. It's my understanding that if you build a kit car that replicates a 1966 model, then it's a 1966 for smog purposes in CA. But I don't live in CA these days, so maybe someone who has been through the process can give you more info.
6. The CAVs I have seen have a major body difference from every other car I have looked at: the front air vent is this huge rectangular scoop out of the front hood. The originals, I believe, and all other replica's have the 2 symetrically placed triangular-shaped scoops (much nicer). What gives with that?
CAV can supply you with either style. I ordered the twin-nostril because I like the look better. What's up with that is that the original cars had the twin-nostril panel initially (mainly to fit the spare tire, I think), and later evolved to the single vent, which gives better airflow (and possibly downforce).
SDP, I'm a newbie too and in California. The guy to talk to about CAV is Robin Lacey:
BOB LACEY / MARGOT LACEY
TANYA ENHOLM RALEY
PHONE NUMBER:
TEL: (858) 720-0463
Technical help line: (858) 342-3246
FAX: (858)720- 0459
EMAIL: www.gt40cars.com
MAILING ADDRESS:
14805 FISHER COVE
DEL MAR
CA 92014, USA
(that's off their website so I'm not posting any personal info that isn't public).
They are the US distributors and he has sent me a great deal of information via e-mail but I may have worn him out because he didn't return the message I left. Was hoping to visit them and check out a car in February when I'm in San Diego.
Also, VIP classics in San Diego are an authorized dealer and advertise a CAV roller in stock. I also want to talk to them
CAV at VIP
Robin sent me this in regards to smog: "California have recently made smogging a replica car much easier after SB100 was passed, they will title and smog your car as a 1966 replica vehicle."
Also, these guys:
Sincerely,
Roy Hunt, Pres.
Finish Line Motorsports, Inc.
Las Vegas, Nevada
89115
(702) 643-7994
Finishline automotive
are dealers and are doing the ZF tranny installation for one of the board members (you probably read that).
I'll post my impressions if I get hold of a real car to poke around in...my plan is 2 years and it's a bit hard to take someones time for a purchase 2 years away but currently I THINK the CAV offers exactly what I'm looking for.
BOB LACEY / MARGOT LACEY
TANYA ENHOLM RALEY
PHONE NUMBER:
TEL: (858) 720-0463
Technical help line: (858) 342-3246
FAX: (858)720- 0459
EMAIL: www.gt40cars.com
MAILING ADDRESS:
14805 FISHER COVE
DEL MAR
CA 92014, USA
(that's off their website so I'm not posting any personal info that isn't public).
They are the US distributors and he has sent me a great deal of information via e-mail but I may have worn him out because he didn't return the message I left. Was hoping to visit them and check out a car in February when I'm in San Diego.
Also, VIP classics in San Diego are an authorized dealer and advertise a CAV roller in stock. I also want to talk to them
CAV at VIP
Robin sent me this in regards to smog: "California have recently made smogging a replica car much easier after SB100 was passed, they will title and smog your car as a 1966 replica vehicle."
Also, these guys:
Sincerely,
Roy Hunt, Pres.
Finish Line Motorsports, Inc.
Las Vegas, Nevada
89115
(702) 643-7994
Finishline automotive
are dealers and are doing the ZF tranny installation for one of the board members (you probably read that).
I'll post my impressions if I get hold of a real car to poke around in...my plan is 2 years and it's a bit hard to take someones time for a purchase 2 years away but currently I THINK the CAV offers exactly what I'm looking for.
Oh I messed up the link (again). The link for C(alifornia) Advanced Vehicles is:
California Advanced Vehicles
For some reason the e-mail address shown above links to the CAV factory site.
California Advanced Vehicles
For some reason the e-mail address shown above links to the CAV factory site.
Ron Earp
Admin
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>
2. How does the 302 do in the standard driver? The Audi transmission? Are purists more inclined toward the 351 (Windsor? Cleveland?) with the ZF (which seem to add about $5K to a car)..[/QB]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Purists use neither the 351W nor the 351C, because neither one were installed in the orignal cars as far as I know. The 302 in lots of different combinations (stroked) is most common and can be made to do whatever you need.
Or, if you really feel like it - use a 351W or 351C that is stroked! There are some folks here doing that too!
Ron
2. How does the 302 do in the standard driver? The Audi transmission? Are purists more inclined toward the 351 (Windsor? Cleveland?) with the ZF (which seem to add about $5K to a car)..[/QB]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Purists use neither the 351W nor the 351C, because neither one were installed in the orignal cars as far as I know. The 302 in lots of different combinations (stroked) is most common and can be made to do whatever you need.
Or, if you really feel like it - use a 351W or 351C that is stroked! There are some folks here doing that too!
Ron
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Steve Toner:
I can answer a few of these:
3. How do you get these cars smoged in CA (my '71 Pantera is exempt, so I don't worry about it)? Is DMV weird about anything else?
There's a new (recent) law in California that makes registering these kind of cars much easier. They basically came to the realization that it was a waste of time to hassle kit car owners, since there are not enough of these cars around to make a difference smog-wise, and these cars tend to be the best-kept and best-tuned cars around. It's my understanding that if you build a kit car that replicates a 1966 model, then it's a 1966 for smog purposes in CA. But I don't live in CA these days, so maybe someone who has been through the process can give you more info.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Um...that's not exactly how SB100 came about. SB100 was the result of two years of phone calls by dedicated enthusiasts (myself included), voting, rewriting, threats by the CARB, a veto by the governor (after all voting sessions by the Senate and the Assembly were unanimous to pass then-SB1911), more voting, a rewrite, another rewrite (which reflected alot of the changes I recommended), more voting and finally passage into law. Oh, and don't forget that - after two years of tireless work - SEMA stepped in at the last minute, voiced support and then declared victory through their lobbying efforts. Gotta love SEMA! Imagine the suprise the actually lobbiest felt when told that!
"They" did not come to the realization that it's a waste of time to hassle kit car owners. The bill came into being began when Senator Johannessen couldn't get his Lone Star Cobra replica easily registered. Then the bill almost died through a lack of interest, but a few calls to the senator's office (plus more than a few calls to Betty Karnette who headed up the Transportation committee) by myself and others got the original bill rolling again. The original bill - SB1911 - did not pass. The reason for this was that the CARB wanted to add verbiage to the bill that would have repealed the 30-year smog exemption roll over. They threatened to kill the bill if the verbiage wasn't added. The bill was pushed ahead without the changes, and the CARB sent a letter to Gov. Davis that said that this particular bill was 'bad.' Gov. Davis then vetoed the bill, and in his statement as to why, he pretty much just quoted the CARB letter.
The DMV continues to actively pursue illegally registered vehicles.
SB100 gives the owners the option of registering their car, and having the smog requirements based on either the engine or the bodystyle of the vehicle. There are only 500 spaces available every year for registration, and last year (the first year of implementation) these 500 spaces were not all taken. The law was modified - and the modifications still have to be worked out - to allow cars that had been incorrectly registered (as '66 model year cars, for instance), to start the process over and get the car properly registered.
I've registered around 12 cars using SB100, and it works great. In fact, over on my website (www.CobraTrader.com) I have a page specifically for registering the car in California. These steps should still work with the changes that became effective the first of this month.
How to register a kit car in California: http://www.cobratrader.com/registrationCA.html
Your pal,
Meat.
I can answer a few of these:
3. How do you get these cars smoged in CA (my '71 Pantera is exempt, so I don't worry about it)? Is DMV weird about anything else?
There's a new (recent) law in California that makes registering these kind of cars much easier. They basically came to the realization that it was a waste of time to hassle kit car owners, since there are not enough of these cars around to make a difference smog-wise, and these cars tend to be the best-kept and best-tuned cars around. It's my understanding that if you build a kit car that replicates a 1966 model, then it's a 1966 for smog purposes in CA. But I don't live in CA these days, so maybe someone who has been through the process can give you more info.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Um...that's not exactly how SB100 came about. SB100 was the result of two years of phone calls by dedicated enthusiasts (myself included), voting, rewriting, threats by the CARB, a veto by the governor (after all voting sessions by the Senate and the Assembly were unanimous to pass then-SB1911), more voting, a rewrite, another rewrite (which reflected alot of the changes I recommended), more voting and finally passage into law. Oh, and don't forget that - after two years of tireless work - SEMA stepped in at the last minute, voiced support and then declared victory through their lobbying efforts. Gotta love SEMA! Imagine the suprise the actually lobbiest felt when told that!
"They" did not come to the realization that it's a waste of time to hassle kit car owners. The bill came into being began when Senator Johannessen couldn't get his Lone Star Cobra replica easily registered. Then the bill almost died through a lack of interest, but a few calls to the senator's office (plus more than a few calls to Betty Karnette who headed up the Transportation committee) by myself and others got the original bill rolling again. The original bill - SB1911 - did not pass. The reason for this was that the CARB wanted to add verbiage to the bill that would have repealed the 30-year smog exemption roll over. They threatened to kill the bill if the verbiage wasn't added. The bill was pushed ahead without the changes, and the CARB sent a letter to Gov. Davis that said that this particular bill was 'bad.' Gov. Davis then vetoed the bill, and in his statement as to why, he pretty much just quoted the CARB letter.
The DMV continues to actively pursue illegally registered vehicles.
SB100 gives the owners the option of registering their car, and having the smog requirements based on either the engine or the bodystyle of the vehicle. There are only 500 spaces available every year for registration, and last year (the first year of implementation) these 500 spaces were not all taken. The law was modified - and the modifications still have to be worked out - to allow cars that had been incorrectly registered (as '66 model year cars, for instance), to start the process over and get the car properly registered.
I've registered around 12 cars using SB100, and it works great. In fact, over on my website (www.CobraTrader.com) I have a page specifically for registering the car in California. These steps should still work with the changes that became effective the first of this month.
How to register a kit car in California: http://www.cobratrader.com/registrationCA.html
Your pal,
Meat.
Brett James-McCall
Moderator
I thought if you were to be a purist you would need to put a 7 litre lump in? A la first 2 Le Mans wins
Many thanks and hats off to all who took time to fill me in. I am speechless at the depth and immediacy of the response. You guys have a great network.
Am I correct in the perception that 40's replicas are taking off in the US, what with the advent of more CAV distribution operations, etc.? Wonder how this bodes for the secondary market? I also perceive that folks tend to hang on to their cars--not too many on the market (unlike Cobra repros). Unlike most classics, those interested in a 40 replica have the choice of several manfs of new cars or kits. Does this result in most enthusiasts going for purchase of new?
Finally, I'd still love to hear of any events as they come up--unfortuantely, too late notice for Vegas this weekend--is there a US newsletter to get on the list of?
Thanks again, all--I'm learning, slowly.
SDP
Am I correct in the perception that 40's replicas are taking off in the US, what with the advent of more CAV distribution operations, etc.? Wonder how this bodes for the secondary market? I also perceive that folks tend to hang on to their cars--not too many on the market (unlike Cobra repros). Unlike most classics, those interested in a 40 replica have the choice of several manfs of new cars or kits. Does this result in most enthusiasts going for purchase of new?
Finally, I'd still love to hear of any events as they come up--unfortuantely, too late notice for Vegas this weekend--is there a US newsletter to get on the list of?
Thanks again, all--I'm learning, slowly.
SDP
Since I became interested in CAVs, I've watched the sales of four cars on the internet.
Two were imported and finished by a company called Cherner Classics and the first one sold for exactly what they were asking ($75k) and they have one on ebay now which they want $79k for and it's at $55k with two days out. You can do a search for "GT 40" and find that car.
The third one was at Barret Jackson and sold for an unbelievable $118k.
The fourth was on ebay and in Gulf colors but was being auctioned by a guy with 0 feedback who appeared to be selling a whole collection of cars and didn't return e-mails so that bidding ended at $45k (well under the reserve no doubt) and disappeared...not sure if it was legit or just a badly run auction.
My worries are the prices going UP when the Ford GT comes out and more ineterest is sparked in the car. I always had an interest and considered the Ford GT but upon sitting in a real one knew I wanted something more like that.
Two were imported and finished by a company called Cherner Classics and the first one sold for exactly what they were asking ($75k) and they have one on ebay now which they want $79k for and it's at $55k with two days out. You can do a search for "GT 40" and find that car.
The third one was at Barret Jackson and sold for an unbelievable $118k.
The fourth was on ebay and in Gulf colors but was being auctioned by a guy with 0 feedback who appeared to be selling a whole collection of cars and didn't return e-mails so that bidding ended at $45k (well under the reserve no doubt) and disappeared...not sure if it was legit or just a badly run auction.
My worries are the prices going UP when the Ford GT comes out and more ineterest is sparked in the car. I always had an interest and considered the Ford GT but upon sitting in a real one knew I wanted something more like that.
SDP
I think you'll find a lot of guys on this Forum more than happy to add their .02.
We were all newbies at one time, and without
this Forum most of us probably still would be.
My .02 on a few...
# 2. If your slant is towards show rather than go, there is nothing wrong with a 302.
It just won't have the grunt of a larger
cube motor. As far as the purists..I don't see much concern whether you use a 289/302/351 so long as you stick with a Ford. Of course if you are shooting for the moon (complete authenticity) that's different.
# 4 Used GT40s don't exist in sufficient numbers in the US to form a good database.
Hopefully that will change over time.
Resale appears very high for quality used.
Yes, several folks have imported their cars
from the UK or Australia/NZ direct. That can be both an advantage and a disadvantage.
You can get just as good/bad service from
a dealer as a manufacturer. Fortunately MOST
GT40 dealers/manufacturers today are excellent.
# 5. The great thing about a GT40 is that most of the 40 uses non-special parts/sytems. No special skills or parts
needed to maintain them. The guys with computer controlled engines can get a little hairy. But carbureted cars are essentially 1960's technology.
Good luck
MikeD
I think you'll find a lot of guys on this Forum more than happy to add their .02.
We were all newbies at one time, and without
this Forum most of us probably still would be.
My .02 on a few...
# 2. If your slant is towards show rather than go, there is nothing wrong with a 302.
It just won't have the grunt of a larger
cube motor. As far as the purists..I don't see much concern whether you use a 289/302/351 so long as you stick with a Ford. Of course if you are shooting for the moon (complete authenticity) that's different.
# 4 Used GT40s don't exist in sufficient numbers in the US to form a good database.
Hopefully that will change over time.
Resale appears very high for quality used.
Yes, several folks have imported their cars
from the UK or Australia/NZ direct. That can be both an advantage and a disadvantage.
You can get just as good/bad service from
a dealer as a manufacturer. Fortunately MOST
GT40 dealers/manufacturers today are excellent.
# 5. The great thing about a GT40 is that most of the 40 uses non-special parts/sytems. No special skills or parts
needed to maintain them. The guys with computer controlled engines can get a little hairy. But carbureted cars are essentially 1960's technology.
Good luck
MikeD
You really need to choose a kit based on what you want out of the car when finished.
If you are looking to build it your self is does limit your choices a little as the CAV only comes in a turnkey minus. You also need to look at if the car uses a donor or is it designed and manufactured as a complete unit. The donor route may or may not be bad depending on how will the final package is engineered with the donor components.
Another thing to look at is comfort. Depending on your size and build there are cars that will fit and some that may not.
I am a little biased at I am a dealer for Roaring Forties. I chose this company because of the exceptional engineering and design of their car. As a racer, I was impressed with the chassis and suspension design of the car. It is designed to work together. My engineer and I have put the car through many trials on the track and street under very severe conditions and it has never let us down. We have put several pro drivers in the car such as Bob Bondurant, who were all impressed.
The RF is a no donor car. The only donor part in it is the gear box. The fit and finish is very good and can be built by an ameture is his garage and maintain the high quality that everyone looks for in there car. You can also have one built by us, to your specs, and warrantied.
Over the last couple of years the GT-40 replica market has expanded with several new manufactures starting up and others expanding into the US market. It gives the potential buyer many choices.
The best advice I could give is be very clear to yourself what you want in a car, research your choices, and be very clear on what you get for you money. Enjoy the process, you will have a great time.
If you are looking to build it your self is does limit your choices a little as the CAV only comes in a turnkey minus. You also need to look at if the car uses a donor or is it designed and manufactured as a complete unit. The donor route may or may not be bad depending on how will the final package is engineered with the donor components.
Another thing to look at is comfort. Depending on your size and build there are cars that will fit and some that may not.
I am a little biased at I am a dealer for Roaring Forties. I chose this company because of the exceptional engineering and design of their car. As a racer, I was impressed with the chassis and suspension design of the car. It is designed to work together. My engineer and I have put the car through many trials on the track and street under very severe conditions and it has never let us down. We have put several pro drivers in the car such as Bob Bondurant, who were all impressed.
The RF is a no donor car. The only donor part in it is the gear box. The fit and finish is very good and can be built by an ameture is his garage and maintain the high quality that everyone looks for in there car. You can also have one built by us, to your specs, and warrantied.
Over the last couple of years the GT-40 replica market has expanded with several new manufactures starting up and others expanding into the US market. It gives the potential buyer many choices.
The best advice I could give is be very clear to yourself what you want in a car, research your choices, and be very clear on what you get for you money. Enjoy the process, you will have a great time.
Even amoung the single radiator opening front ends, there is diversity. ERA offers either a straight or curved leading edge. The black car pictured below uses the straight leading edge.
My car uses a curved leading edge.
I am using a 351 Cleveland in my car. It uses TWM EFI throttle bodies and "fills" the engine bay. ERA built the chassis with cutouts for the exhaust they normally use for a big block engine. The air filter just clears the rear window on the back edge. ERA only uses a ZF transaxle which sets the engine low in the chassis. My engine is about 25-1/2 inches tall from the bottom of oil pan to top of air cleaner. The engine is mildy built, not stroked, 2V heads, roller cam, etc. It makes 410 HP and 412 ft-lb, all below 6K rpm. It was designed to be a street driven engine, smooth response, at least 380 ft-lb from 3500 rpm up.
As others have said, it all depends on what you want and what you intend to do with the car.
[ January 28, 2003: Message edited by: Dave Wharran ]
My car uses a curved leading edge.
I am using a 351 Cleveland in my car. It uses TWM EFI throttle bodies and "fills" the engine bay. ERA built the chassis with cutouts for the exhaust they normally use for a big block engine. The air filter just clears the rear window on the back edge. ERA only uses a ZF transaxle which sets the engine low in the chassis. My engine is about 25-1/2 inches tall from the bottom of oil pan to top of air cleaner. The engine is mildy built, not stroked, 2V heads, roller cam, etc. It makes 410 HP and 412 ft-lb, all below 6K rpm. It was designed to be a street driven engine, smooth response, at least 380 ft-lb from 3500 rpm up.
As others have said, it all depends on what you want and what you intend to do with the car.
[ January 28, 2003: Message edited by: Dave Wharran ]
