Restarting my SLC project in West Texas

radiator vent line needed a 45 degree fitting , kept the original bleed valve. Teed into the steam vent lines, cut the water pump outlet and muscle in a 90 degree elbow, very very tight, may do the outlet mod later.
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this is the final location of the heater control valve, will be secured against the triangular floor panel and will come up with a protective cover.
 
final position of the surge tank and catch tank, surge tank is above all steam vent lines, , hopefully access should be easy without spider interference, same position as Cam's, I had to redo the steam vent lines a bunch to keep them low and not interfere with anything . the bottom surge tank fitting is teed to the heater control valve and water pump , the right side one to the steam vents and the top one to the catch tank.
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Hector, you have your heimjoint above the mounting bracket, I have mine below. It might work but I don’t think so.(It depends of where you have your column mounted, vertically) I made a very thourough bumpsteer adjustment about a year and a half ago and it was very good from the factory. I think I shimmed it 1mm down, can’t find the graph right now.
Can anyone else shime in here?
 

Joel K

Supporter
Johan, you are 100% correct. The steering rod ends need to be under the front upright bracket. I have not set bump steer yet, but took some measurements a while back and there is no way to dial out bump steer if the rod end is on top.
 
Yes you are correct, easy to fix, I will move it down below, thank you very much. I think somebody at the factory mounted it wrong and I never changed the position. Thanks for noticing, it probably would have been impossible to dial down bump steer. Thanks Johan and Joel .
 
the steering shaft angle looks decent, I lifted the suspension close to mid travel. i have not done a rough alignment yet.
 
the steering shaft angle looks decent, I lifted the suspension close to mid travel. i have not done a rough alignment yet.
Tie rod should be secured to the underside of that adapter, as you have it now and consistent with Johan’s, you would have had terrible bumpsteer in the on-top position. Rough rule of thumb once you have your ride height selected is get the tie rods so they are angled somewhere between the upper and lower control arms. I have it set the same way you do (no shims) with a 4.5” front ride height and bumpsteer isn’t worth talking about.
 
Thanks Cam, I will get a better feel once I get the alignment done with a person inside the car and a full tank of gas .
 
Cam:
What torque table do you use? my fastenal table for the tie rod bolts shows 120 ftlbs but the table on the slc manual shows 92 ftlbs, I assume 75% yield strength and stainless steel uncoated bolts. Thanks
 
Hector,

Different bolt manufacturers give different torque specifications for their bolts independent of other manufacturers. The specification is also different if the bolt is dry versus lubricated with oil versus lubricated with anti seize versus lubricated with thread locker (Loctite) in most charts. A nut will also have a different torque rating than a bolt in a threaded hole (say a bolt in an engine block). The platings on the fasteners can also lead to different torque specs.

I assume this is the Fastenal chart you are using (this is what I would use if I had no specs from the bolt supplier):

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Be sure to "read the fine print" at the bottom right of the chart that gives a description for what K=0.15, etc. at the top of the different columns means. This is the dry versus lubricated columns.

I would suggest that if you are using the fasteners that came in the kit use the specs provided by RCR in the manual. If you have purchased your own fasteners use the specs from your supplier and be sure to use the proper ones for how you are (or are not) lubricating your fasteners upon installation or use the Fastenal chart if you do not have specs from your fastener supplier.
 
Thanks Kurt, yes I was referring to the bolts that came with the kit, and usually I use the "dry" torque values without lubrication. I appreciate your input
 
I'll confess - many of my fasteners were tightened to the "gootentite" spec. There were only a few fasteners where I used an actual torque (lug nuts, axle nuts, half shafts come to mind).

Almost all my joints were dry in combination with nylocs; the overall torque changes as the nyloc has been used multiple times (I cycled them out once I thought there wasn't any resistance left from the nyloc bit, ~3 times is my general rule of thumb but it's hard to keep track). I also followed up in all locations with a torque stripe as a visual indicator for whether any joints have lost pre-tension; thus far I haven't seen a single bolt lose tension so I guess I got lucky.
 
Thanks, Cam. I am marking all the nuts and bolts, not sure why I am so paranoid about bolts , I guess I have had a few failures in the past. Glad to know nylocs do a good job over time and usage.
 
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