Hi Steve,
Yes, I contacted Jon about the issue. I believe he has recently changed supplier for the hubs.
Regards, Rob.
Rob's AK40
- Thread starter Rob Parker
- Start date
Hi Steve,
Yes, I contacted Jon about the issue. I believe he has recently changed supplier for the hubs.
Regards, Rob.
I also had contacted AK about them being stiff, was told it was normal and would free up with use. I had asked about known torques for preload because I was going to open them up and reset them.
Jerry, yes, sorry for not clarifying.
Davidmgbv8
Supporter
Would you like a cad file for a bracket to for a Wilwood caliper?Finally, I test fitted everything on the chassis.
The hubs have provision for knock on wheels. The threads are handed; right hand thread on the nearside, left hand thread on the offside of the car.
I have added the brakes too. I need a separate caliper for the handbrake - watch this space.
View attachment 145654
I got that same BS from Mick at Southern GT about one rear hub being noticeably tighter than the other.
Disassembly revealed hubs were not machined the same, the tight one hub OD was too big so they cranked down on the bearings to get it to seat. Dam near didn’t get it apart. My machinist fixed now both torque up evenly and turn with even feel.
Hi Rob, interesting that you're looking at putting the EWP at the front of the car, I'm just wondering where you are going to put the expansion tank? I presume that that still needs to go at the back of the car to get the correct height?
Hi Chris.
Yes, I'm planning to put the expansion tank at the back in the engine bay. It'll need be to be the highest point in the cooling system.
so I presume you'll need to run the expansion tank return hose back to the front of the car so that it can connect to the pump inlet as that is low pressure point?
Reason I'm asking is because I'm putting in an EWP too and having it at the front would seem easier
I also run the EWP up front. As per instructions, on rad outlet.
Expansion tank at the rear not at the highest point (no room) and run an overflow tank also.
Cooland hose from engine to expansion tank and also a bleedline from top of the engine to expansion tank.
Rad cap per instructions engine. From there to overflow tank on the otherside of the engine bay.
I talked about my EWP installation in a post on my build thread here
https://www.gt40s.com/threads/canamsa-sa-stratch-build.19604/post-607350
https://www.gt40s.com/threads/canamsa-sa-stratch-build.19604/post-607350
Thanks guys, some really great threads there, however I'm obviously missing something 
, in Howards post he talks about the expansion tank
The expansion tank MUST be located at the highest point available in the car. This is a very important point. The expansion tank connection to the cooling system (expansion line) MUST be connected to the lowest PRESSURE point in the system. This will always be at the pump inlet return from the radiator right before and as close to the low-pressure side of the impeller as possible. This will also be the lowest-temperature coolant in the system. This is also a very important point.
Rob, I was just wondering what route you're taking for this connection?
, in Howards post he talks about the expansion tankThe expansion tank MUST be located at the highest point available in the car. This is a very important point. The expansion tank connection to the cooling system (expansion line) MUST be connected to the lowest PRESSURE point in the system. This will always be at the pump inlet return from the radiator right before and as close to the low-pressure side of the impeller as possible. This will also be the lowest-temperature coolant in the system. This is also a very important point.
Rob, I was just wondering what route you're taking for this connection?
Well, I was planning to make the connection to the expansion tank at the lowest part of the cooling circuit in the engine compartment on the engine exit before it goes down the centre of the car to the radiator.
After reading Howard's advice, I may need to re-think this solution.
As Howard says, the expansion / header tank must be connected so as to provide a positive head of pressure at the pump inlet.
Davidmgbv8
Supporter
I got the same BS from Mick as well, when I had to have my hub knock off threads re machined, I found the problem on one hub!
I still need to disable my spindles to correct whatever is making them locked up. Stiff is not a word that should describe seated hub bearings.
Davidmgbv8
Supporter
Splines on stub axle not machined correctly interference fit
I have started preparing the aluminium panels to attached to the chassis.
AK supplied all the panels polycoated to protect them during transport. When it is time to fit the panel to the chassis, this needs to be peeled off. The metal has a shiny brushed finish. I made the decision that I wanted more of a lack-lustre look. This has the consequence that I need to do much more work! The process I have used is: -
AK supplied all the panels polycoated to protect them during transport. When it is time to fit the panel to the chassis, this needs to be peeled off. The metal has a shiny brushed finish. I made the decision that I wanted more of a lack-lustre look. This has the consequence that I need to do much more work! The process I have used is: -
- DA the panel with 80 grit. This get rid of any scratches and shows up all the low spots. This can be removed with a sheet metal hammer, etc.
- DA again with 320 grit to get near to the finish I want.
- Finally finish off with a green Scotchbrite pad.
After this process, the panels have the look I want. They are now however very prone to fingers marks, etc. In order to lock-in the finish, I've copied some other builders on here and have sprayed them with Nyalic. It is a product developed to protect metal from corrosion in extreme environments and is often used in the marine industry. Therefore, I'm confident that it'll provide good protection on the car.
Finally, the riveting is about to begin!
- Each panel need to be degreased.
- I heated them up with a propane torch to chase off the condensation.
- A single coat is all that is required.
- Leave to dry for about 1 to 2 hours.
Finally, the riveting is about to begin!
